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Weld Grinding With A Dremel!


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#16 sonikk4

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Posted 26 March 2011 - 12:02 PM

Like previously mentioned they are not cheap but you can get them on Ebay. You will need a high speed air grinder either right angle or straight however i am not sure what is the smallest size of stem you could use in a Dremmel as there are two stem sizes for high speed burrs. 3mm and 6 mm.(there maybe others but these are the common sizes of stem)

They do need some pressure on them to work well so really the Dremmel would not be man enough. Then you go on to the next level of expense. YOU WILL need a decent compressor providing a high enough CFM rating for these to work well as die grinders are air hungry beasties.

I have a 3hp twin cylinder 100 litre compressor which although works reasonably well is only just sufficient to work my die grinder work well. It just takes that little bit longer to grind the welds down unlike at work where i get full constant air pressure due to the heavy duty industrial compressors we use.

I have used them with my old 2hp 50 litre compressor but it was painfully slow.

PLEASE DO USE GOOD QUALITY EYE PROTECTION as the swarf/dust that comes off these burrs is small but very sharp and if you get a bit in your eye you will know about it. Where gloves as well as the splinters when they get in your hands/fingers (and they will) is a ******* to see and remove.

Edited by sonikk4, 26 March 2011 - 12:03 PM.


#17 skoughi

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Posted 26 March 2011 - 12:52 PM

Like previously mentioned they are not cheap but you can get them on Ebay. You will need a high speed air grinder either right angle or straight however i am not sure what is the smallest size of stem you could use in a Dremmel as there are two stem sizes for high speed burrs. 3mm and 6 mm.(there maybe others but these are the common sizes of stem)

They do need some pressure on them to work well so really the Dremmel would not be man enough. Then you go on to the next level of expense. YOU WILL need a decent compressor providing a high enough CFM rating for these to work well as die grinders are air hungry beasties.

I have a 3hp twin cylinder 100 litre compressor which although works reasonably well is only just sufficient to work my die grinder work well. It just takes that little bit longer to grind the welds down unlike at work where i get full constant air pressure due to the heavy duty industrial compressors we use.

I have used them with my old 2hp 50 litre compressor but it was painfully slow.

PLEASE DO USE GOOD QUALITY EYE PROTECTION as the swarf/dust that comes off these burrs is small but very sharp and if you get a bit in your eye you will know about it. Where gloves as well as the splinters when they get in your hands/fingers (and they will) is a ******* to see and remove.

Thats true but i'm only intending to use mine for that one little snurt of a weld that i can't get my angle grinder to and to dress up bits of swarf etc. I've also got a 3hp comp but with a 50L tank so it wouldn't keep up with a air die grinder. As said with a previous poster i can get carried away with the grinding as well and have to keep reminding myself to leave some weld on. I now allways try to weld from a side that won't be seen and try and leave as much as i can on.I will go and have a search on ebay for some and see what comes up, cheers

#18 skoughi

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Posted 26 March 2011 - 01:05 PM

Had a look on ebay and found hunners o sets with the small dia shanks that my rotary can fit, they're all very cheap wich makes me think they won't have much quality. Found a few better ones, and more expensive, but with a 6mm shank. Which makes me think would they fit in a normal high speed drill?

#19 sonikk4

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Posted 26 March 2011 - 03:58 PM

The ones that are in my photo's have a 6mm shank. This is the standard size collet that come's with the die grinders although you can buy a 3mm collet from the like's of Cromwell Tools.

Any of them will fit in a high speed drill but only the 6mm will fit in the standard collets supplied with air driven die grinders.

#20 skoughi

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Posted 26 March 2011 - 08:12 PM

Sorry made a little mistake in my last post, should have said CAN they work in a drill. By that i mean will the bearing in a drill stand up to the extra sideways preasure when using a burr and would a standard drill spin fast enough for them to work properly?
I went on screwfix and had a look for some drills and the speeds they can work at and no they couldn't work a burr. Die grinders spin at 20-22 thou and drils can usually go up to 3 thou so it's a no go. Also found a few die grinders for a good bit less than what i paid for my little rotary!! Anyone want to buy a draper rotary only used once!!!!!!

Edited by skoughi, 26 March 2011 - 09:37 PM.


#21 daveeeeee

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Posted 28 March 2011 - 06:45 PM

Use ebay for these kind of consumables, dirt cheap if you buy in 6s or 10s (you will get through them)

I've got some of those burrs from ebay and they've lasted through alot of abuse.

#22 skoughi

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Posted 28 March 2011 - 07:05 PM

Sold the little rotary tonight (for a little loss but hey ho!) and bought a die grinder for the same amount. Sourced one with a low cfm rating so hopefully my 3hp comp will cope ok. Was looking as well for cutting discs, mandrels etc. Should hopefully be a bit more manley!! Bought a flap disc for the grinder and found it a lot more forgiving for when it comes to finishing welds and cleaning rust etc.

#23 panelbeaterpeter

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Posted 28 March 2011 - 07:43 PM

They key is to start making your welds neater, saves lots of time. Sometimes if you want an invisible repair, then you have to dress your welds, I use, 4.5" grinder with grinding stone, and 36 grit softpad. 90 degree die grinder with burrs. Small belt file, large belt file. Cut off saw with cutting blade, good for dressing inward curves. As has been said wear goggles, and good ones, not the glasses type.

#24 daveeeeee

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Posted 28 March 2011 - 08:02 PM

Amen to that, for eye protection a full face shield is the mother of all convenience and doesn't steam up. In combination with some ear defenders you can grind for hours in comfort :D Just don't forget the neighbours can hear you ;D

#25 skoughi

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Posted 28 March 2011 - 08:17 PM

They key is to start making your welds neater, saves lots of time. Sometimes if you want an invisible repair, then you have to dress your welds, I use, 4.5" grinder with grinding stone, and 36 grit softpad. 90 degree die grinder with burrs. Small belt file, large belt file. Cut off saw with cutting blade, good for dressing inward curves. As has been said wear goggles, and good ones, not the glasses type.

I know, i know!!!! Problem i have is i've got a terrible hand tremor which can be a real problem when it comes to doing a nice controlled weld. Usually end up doing plug welds which is not a problem but can be frustrating. I suppose you've just got to compensate for these things. If i had a big budget then i'd get a spot welder but i ain't so there, plus its all down to practise as well. I've also seen coded welders having to hold the end of the weld rod with a gloved hand to keep it steady so i'm not the only one!!

#26 skoughi

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Posted 28 March 2011 - 08:53 PM

Going off topic now but i've just put photos of my build on photobucket but i'm not sure how to take the photos from there and load them on here, anyone help please?

#27 panelbeaterpeter

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Posted 28 March 2011 - 09:12 PM

Click on the picture, and copy the img code given in the box under or by the side of it. Just click on it and you should get a little yellow box come up with "copied" on it. Paste the code onto here, where you type stuff. There will be a quick user guide on photobucket if you nose about.

Edit: Just noticed your in Shetland. I'm from Orkney, now living in Stirling.

Edited by panelbeaterpeter, 28 March 2011 - 09:13 PM.


#28 skoughi

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Posted 29 March 2011 - 04:20 PM

Good stuff, thanks for the help. I've no been to Orkney in years, funny how you are right next to a place but never go there! Sail past or fly over a good few times a year but never stop off, will need to have a visit shortly. Maybe will go there with my clubman once i've got it finished!!

#29 panelbeaterpeter

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Posted 29 March 2011 - 07:30 PM

Good stuff, thanks for the help. I've no been to Orkney in years, funny how you are right next to a place but never go there! Sail past or fly over a good few times a year but never stop off, will need to have a visit shortly. Maybe will go there with my clubman once i've got it finished!!

Good idea, there's a good classic and vintage car show in August, called the vintage rally, I'll be trying to go up with mine for the show this year. My sister who is "minidriverfiona" on here, still lives in Orkney and has a fab mini which I built.

#30 skoughi

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Posted 30 March 2011 - 05:34 PM

Sounds good but at the rate i'm going with my mini then that will probably be out of the question. Hoping to get her ready for our show which is next year and i'm starting to have doubts about that target! Only getting a couple of hours a week on her so i can only do so much. Currently putting the passengers floor, sill and rebuilding the passenger a post, then over to the drivers side to do it all over again! The finishing line is a long way off!!




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