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Project Paddy A Long And Slow Rebuild.


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#106 grahama

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Posted 11 September 2012 - 09:14 PM

Have to agree, very nice corner welding. Is it a die grinder and carbide burr job for those ?? Excellent work Neil as usual.

Graham

#107 sonikk4

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Posted 11 September 2012 - 09:18 PM

It will be at the end Graham. I normally take the welds down with a stainless slitting disc first edge on first then i will use the roloc discs and grinding burrs to finish off.

#108 afrance94

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Posted 11 September 2012 - 10:04 PM

whats happend to project erm? that was a epic build

#109 sonikk4

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Posted 12 September 2012 - 06:41 PM

whats happend to project erm? that was a epic build


He's on hold at the moment as Scott is a lowly paid apprentice so money is tight. However he's moved back in with us so he will now have some spare cash to spend on him. Its just a case of deciding what to do first, build the engine or save hard for a full carbon roof.

I finished the remainder of the flange repairs today in between moving an old Pug and shifting a clubbie shell around.
Flange gone
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New flange on
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Corner piece left to do
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and all done and a good coating of zinc primer. The pattern skin to go on fits quite well so hopefully it will be finished tomorrow so i can start on the other one. Also Paul has got the repair section sorted for the l/h front floor panel so something else to get welded in.Posted Image

#110 sonikk4

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Posted 13 September 2012 - 07:18 PM

Door skin fitted but not before getting a nice thick coat of Zinc primer followed by top coat, it better not bloody rust with all of that on it
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The door skin will be stripped back to bare metal, skimmed with filler where required then painted. Followed by a serious dose of waxoyling.
and now onto the the other door, look familiar??
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same damage different door.

#111 minimuk

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Posted 13 September 2012 - 09:48 PM

Nice repair there Neil, what are you using for topcoat? This makes me starting on mine soon, my front end first though......with the new wings,

#112 SAL 821X

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Posted 14 September 2012 - 07:22 AM

Hi Neil,

Just doing the same to my Van doors at the moment just a quick question..

Would you advise always stripping the black ecoat off from new door skins?

Is it a case of taking it back to bare metal or will a rub down with 80, 120 and 240grit be enough before primer?

Cheers

Matt

#113 sonikk4

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Posted 14 September 2012 - 09:16 AM

Nice repair there Neil, what are you using for topcoat? This makes me starting on mine soon, my front end first though......with the new wings,


Hi Michel, we have used a cheap Acrylic black paint for inside the door skin. The E coat was removed where it folds around the lip but it that area was also primed and painted before folding round.

The Heritage panels you are using i would wait until you have fitted them first ( do make sure you use a Zinc rich primer on the flanges to weld when you have removed the E coat.) Once its welded on remove any burnt paint E coat etc then re protect. Now you can prime and paint if you want to go that route.



Hi Neil,

Just doing the same to my Van doors at the moment just a quick question..

Would you advise always stripping the black ecoat off from new door skins?

Is it a case of taking it back to bare metal or will a rub down with 80, 120 and 240grit be enough before primer?

Cheers

Matt


Hi Matt, if the panel is non genuine / Heritage i would remove it as the E coat on these is brittle as when i folded the lips round the E coat flaked off externally so not good.
And the process you have written will be fine but i would do any filler work after the E coat is off then etch prime any bare metal then filler prime, flat back prime and then guide coat it. If all is good top coat.

#114 minimuk

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Posted 14 September 2012 - 04:02 PM

cheers Neil, will do, I might use Por15 on the inside of the doors(just love that stuff), and use zinc primer and top coat following your process.

#115 sonikk4

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Posted 14 September 2012 - 06:56 PM

Its whatever you are happy paint wise but i would get a lot of waxoyl into the door once finished. Just make sure the drain holes are clear once you are done.

#116 minimuk

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Posted 14 September 2012 - 08:30 PM

Its whatever you are happy paint wise but i would get a lot of waxoyl into the door once finished. Just make sure the drain holes are clear once you are done.


taken that on board, cheers

#117 paul1275s

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Posted 15 September 2012 - 09:44 AM

Just to add to this, the door skins had been stored in the workshop for a couple of years and the E coat was intact with no signs of surface rust underneath, we took that as a good sign as other stored panels had rusted quite badly under their E coat.
I really ought to start my own thread for this car rather than keep hijacking Paddy!

#118 sonikk4

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Posted 15 September 2012 - 10:02 AM

Just to add to this, the door skins had been stored in the workshop for a couple of years and the E coat was intact with no signs of surface rust underneath, we took that as a good sign as other stored panels had rusted quite badly under their E coat.
I really ought to start my own thread for this car rather than keep hijacking Paddy!


Mate feel free and just copy over the pics :D :D

#119 hughJ

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Posted 15 September 2012 - 06:28 PM

Neil its great to see you doing bodywork again. I just don't know how you do such neat welds. Must Mic each pulse!! Lovely work.

Hugh

#120 sonikk4

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Posted 15 September 2012 - 06:33 PM

Neil its great to see you doing bodywork again. I just don't know how you do such neat welds. Must Mic each pulse!! Lovely work.

Hugh


Cheers Hugh, they came out really well just a shame to grind them down. We left the one at the front as Paul said we wont see them so they stayed as they were. I will do exactly the same to the other door as well.




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