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Project Paddy A Long And Slow Rebuild.


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#46 danie garry

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Posted 06 June 2011 - 10:43 PM

some mighty fine polishing there!!!
great work as per usual!!

#47 sonikk4

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Posted 23 June 2011 - 01:13 PM

Sorted out the back of the exhaust today as it was hanging low. The previous owner had used an extension piece added to the fwd mount on the rear subframe for some reason.

Anyway removed that then fitted a new cotton reel and hangar to the back of the subframe and happy days.

The bad news though is there is more rust than first thought on the top sections of the subframe so next month i'll drop the subbie and repair all of the crusty bits. And while i'm at it i while change all of the perished rubbers etc.

The joys of old mini's.

#48 minimuk

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Posted 24 June 2011 - 09:28 PM

looks great your work, always something else to learn on your tread and all go again there, great polishing work there too 2000 wet nd dry, I need to learn that bit on my next project.

#49 TheOldOne

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Posted 01 July 2011 - 06:32 PM

Hi there
Just a quick praise on your work.
I have bought a 72 mini clubman for my son which needs some work.
Would i be right in thinking that all the panels from the wings and bonnet backwards are the same as a standard mini?
I need cills and possibly inner cills and floor pans.
Also my mig welder is both gas or no gas.Do i need to use it with gas all the time.
Would appreciate your views/help

Regards

Tony

#50 sonikk4

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Posted 01 July 2011 - 07:11 PM

Hi there
Just a quick praise on your work.
I have bought a 72 mini clubman for my son which needs some work.
Would i be right in thinking that all the panels from the wings and bonnet backwards are the same as a standard mini?
I need cills and possibly inner cills and floor pans.
Also my mig welder is both gas or no gas.Do i need to use it with gas all the time.
Would appreciate your views/help

Regards

Tony


Hi Tony as far as i'm aware everything from the A panels back are standard mini, sills, inner sills floors etc.

With regards to your welder use it in gas mode but do not use those disposable bottles as they do not last. Either take out a contract with B.O.C or someone else for a Argon/CO2 mix. You can get them in various sizes mine is from B.O.C and is Argoshield light.

Hope this helps

Neil

#51 TheOldOne

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Posted 01 July 2011 - 07:47 PM

Hi there
Just a quick praise on your work.
I have bought a 72 mini clubman for my son which needs some work.
Would i be right in thinking that all the panels from the wings and bonnet backwards are the same as a standard mini?
I need cills and possibly inner cills and floor pans.
Also my mig welder is both gas or no gas.Do i need to use it with gas all the time.
Would appreciate your views/help

Regards

Tony


Hi Tony as far as i'm aware everything from the A panels back are standard mini, sills, inner sills floors etc.

With regards to your welder use it in gas mode but do not use those disposable bottles as they do not last. Either take out a contract with B.O.C or someone else for a Argon/CO2 mix. You can get them in various sizes mine is from B.O.C and is Argoshield light.


Hope this helps

Neil


Edited by TheOldOne, 01 July 2011 - 07:51 PM.


#52 TheOldOne

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Posted 01 July 2011 - 08:07 PM

Hi there
Just a quick praise on your work.
I have bought a 72 mini clubman for my son which needs some work.
Would i be right in thinking that all the panels from the wings and bonnet backwards are the same as a standard mini?
I need cills and possibly inner cills and floor pans.
Also my mig welder is both gas or no gas.Do i need to use it with gas all the time.
Would appreciate your views/help

Regards

Tony


Hi Tony as far as i'm aware everything from the A panels back are standard mini, sills, inner sills floors etc.

With regards to your welder use it in gas mode but do not use those disposable bottles as they do not last. Either take out a contract with B.O.C or someone else for a Argon/CO2 mix. You can get them in various sizes mine is from B.O.C and is Argoshield light.


Hope this helps

Neil



Thanks Neil
What size bottle would you suggest

Thanks
Tony

#53 sonikk4

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Posted 01 July 2011 - 08:20 PM

It really does depend on how much welding you are going to do, i currently have a size X bottle from B.O.C although this is a lot smaller than the previous bottle i had but that Y size did cover most of the welding work on Project Erm.

The size X weighs in at approx 19kgs while the Y bottle weighs in at 40kgs.

If its just sills and floor quarters then the X should be enough, but if you are doing more then i would consider the Y. If you decide on a contract with B.O.C you can pay for a full year up front and any remaining full months of the contract remaining they will refund or you can pay monthly.

There are cheaper options available, if you do a search on the forum or use the mig welding forum then you will get a better idea of prices etc.

#54 TheOldOne

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Posted 03 July 2011 - 07:23 PM

Hi Neil
My nearside front inner sill and floor panel area are a bit ropey
What panels should i get?
(hope you dont mind me asking)

Thanks

Tony

#55 sonikk4

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Posted 26 July 2011 - 07:57 PM

Hi Neil
My nearside front inner sill and floor panel area are a bit ropey
What panels should i get?
(hope you dont mind me asking)

Thanks

Tony


Hi Tony sorry for the late reply i have not looked at the thread for a while so i'm not sure if you have done your work or not. If not then you can buy a front floor section panel that has the inner sill section as part of it. However they are a bit hit and miss.

I hand made the inner sill section for the l/h side of Erm and then cut the inner sill section off the replacement floor panel section and butt welded the two together.

Have a look at the M machine panels as a lot of their stuff is bespoke and very good.

#56 sonikk4

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Posted 26 September 2011 - 06:21 PM

Well its back to welding again so Paddy will be getting a new proper sized l/h sill rather than the over sill that was fitted.

I was a bit bemused by the rubbish repair plate on the l/h flitch plus the gaps between the A panel and flitch so had a poke around and found all of this
Posted Image
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And under the plate
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Not stopping there i found numerous holes in the flitch lip behind the A panel
Posted Image
and this strange fitting A panel at the bottom
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Very much a lash up but not the end of the world, the good thing though there is no rust around the fresh air vent so happy there.
Onto the oversill, as per the other side there was a grand total of eight welds along the doorstep to sill lip which was rubbish but less work to take it off.
Posted Image

Now for anybody who thinks using a oversill is fine look at the bottom section here
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This had been tacked on and seam sealed so no moisture could escape and you can see where the rust is starting again. Fortunately for me its only minor surface so easy to sort out
Posted Image

#57 sonikk4

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Posted 26 September 2011 - 06:57 PM

What made me laugh with the panels that were fitted ie the A panel and oversill was the total lack of protection on the inside. Both still had their labels attached so to be honest neither would have lasted very long.
This was the issues with the flitch to A panel flange
Posted Image
Posted Image
Why go to all of the hassle of fitting a new A panel without repairing the flange :crazy: I have also got to fix this hole in the end of the door step as well.
Posted Image

#58 Risky

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Posted 26 September 2011 - 07:02 PM

Nice car you got there, what do you use for sealing the gaps etc?

#59 sonikk4

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Posted 26 September 2011 - 07:07 PM

I use Aviation Semkits which will cope with most types of fluids whether it hydraulic, fuel etc. Plus its over paintable as well.

#60 jagman.2003

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Posted 26 September 2011 - 07:14 PM

Then in went his battery and within a few turns he started HURRAH but the starter would not disengage. What the hell!!! this however was a simple fix as the ignition key i used was not allowing the barrel to return properly causing the starter to stay engaged. Now this is the first time i have come across this problem.

Great looking work as ever. I've had the ignition stick before. A few squirts of wd40 solved it. But ideally a strip down & clean would probabaly have been a better long term fix.




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