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Project Paddy A Long And Slow Rebuild.


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#541 sonikk4

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Posted 14 April 2016 - 05:52 PM

Did a trial fit of the front end just to see if things were off and all in all not too bad considering the subframe was not fitted.

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Some tweaking and trimming will be needed but until the subbie is slaved in then there is no point.

 

I did a double check of the new scuttle and found the windscreen flange differed by 2mm left to right so that had to be trimmed off

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Then it was onto the r/h lower flitch returns attaching to the toeboard. When i first bought the car it came with oversills and there was some corrosion to the lower flitch as well so that was repaired then. However looking at it again today it was not good enough so it was time for a new flitch section. 

 

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This will go in once i have fabbed up a new section for the other part of the lower flitch where it runs up to the lower bulkhead



#542 Daz1968

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Posted 14 April 2016 - 09:13 PM

Looking very good,

#543 ger

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Posted 14 April 2016 - 09:39 PM

Lovely job.

#544 sonikk4

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Posted 14 April 2016 - 09:41 PM

Looking very good,

 

 

Lovely job.

 

Cheers folks. :D  :D



#545 WPD

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Posted 15 April 2016 - 12:29 PM

looks great, coming along nicely



#546 sonikk4

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Posted 16 April 2016 - 06:02 PM

A bit more on the fwd lower flitch done.

 

New sections fabbed and pinned in place

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and welded in place

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and ground flush, the inside needs to be dressed back later

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#547 StefanPieter

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Posted 16 April 2016 - 10:09 PM

Very nice

#548 Marco1972

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Posted 18 April 2016 - 07:21 AM

Great work bud

Got to ask .... How did you get the curve in that bottom piece ?

Looks great .... As always

#549 slidehammer

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Posted 19 April 2016 - 08:19 PM

very, very nice work. I love the updates on Paddy



#550 sonikk4

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Posted 20 April 2016 - 03:33 PM

Great work bud

Got to ask .... How did you get the curve in that bottom piece ?

Looks great .... As always

 

Marco the curve was a royal pain as its almost a compound curve which i could not properly replicate with my shrinker and stretcher. In the end i did use two sections, the straighter one was no problem but the second one i did a series of cuts and then formed the curve. Once that was correct i then used a piece of flattened copper as a backing piece so i could fill in the expanded cuts. Linished it all back then welded them in place.



#551 sonikk4

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Posted 23 April 2016 - 09:21 PM

On with more repair sections to the toeboard and floor area.

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Flitch repair section pinned and clamped in place ready for welding up

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#552 Marco1972

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Posted 25 April 2016 - 10:59 AM

Fantastic work mate

I've got to get me some of those skin pins .........

Mark

#553 sonikk4

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Posted 07 May 2016 - 09:35 PM

Flitch done and dusted

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Then it was onto the remaining clips on the floor so before removal

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and what was hiding under them

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All rust coutout

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new sections tacked in place

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Ground flush

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New clips fitted

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#554 sonikk4

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Posted 10 May 2016 - 08:31 PM

Sill is on now

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Then it was off with the drivers door skin. Something did not look right

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So the inside of the frame got some Bilt Hamber action as it was only surface rust

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and a coating of Epoxy primer

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The skin got prepped while i waiting for the De Ox to do its stuff

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So i have sheet steel in the car which i will fold at work to repair the bottom of the door and the sides and then get the remainder of the nasty stuff replaced. Never ending. The skin had been replaced by the looks of it unless they braised the doors at the factory. Real shame there was nothing at all paint wise on the folded edges. 



#555 Daz1968

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Posted 10 May 2016 - 08:53 PM

Original mk1 doors are brazed there, so every possibility later ones are, looking good though




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