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1098-100 = 998 Rebuild!


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#16 1990minicity

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Posted 15 March 2011 - 04:48 PM

Double post. Now posted later.

Edited by 1990minicity, 15 March 2011 - 11:10 PM.


#17 almarsh132

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Posted 15 March 2011 - 06:40 PM

Nothing wrong with that. You can make a 998 go like ****

Mines a 998, Stevee on here has a 998 street sleeper topic on here with alot of posts and ideas in it. Liiarge is building a 998 engine and theres another thread around on here by Racer Pete or PhillipGCaldwell with 998 engines being used to their max!

Good idea for a 998 if you want a moderate road car that goes well would be to use a stage 1 kit, 12g295 cooper head, HIF38, 44 carb or Twin HS2's combined with a SW5-07 camshaft.
This will give you alot of torquey power rather than a revvy racer. Nice traffic characteristics and an idle which is nice and driveable at low revs but when you open it up on a dual carridgeway it pulls like a train. Neither will it embarres you on a trackday. With this spec you could blow stage 1 1275's out of the water :P

If you want blistering street use and track day performance then you can gas flow, port and polish the head. Fit bigger valves in the head. Combine this with a 'hotter' camshaft such as a Kent 276 or suchlike and a few other bits and peices around the engine and you could well have 70-80brake out of her.

Vizard did a similar spec without lightened flywheels etc which blitzed the metro turbo over the 1.4 mile and that does 0-60 in 8.9 secs. Imagine quicker in a 998!

Food for thought :(

Yeah I've got a sneaky suspicion Liiarge will be a very happy chappy that its a 998! Looking for a fast road spec, so diff head, cam, timing kit, double valve springs, twin carbs, YUMMY! :(

Did someone say... Can i have a picture heavy update?!?! You most certainly can folks, loading the pics off my phone now! :)

#18 almarsh132

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Posted 15 March 2011 - 07:29 PM

Well today I have been a very busy body, early bird really does catch the worm! Got up nice and early, put the halogens on and got cracking!
First to go was the flywheel and clutch housing, Then made a start on removing teh cogs onside, had a small tantrum with one that i'm hoping to resolve at the weeekend!!! My dad is going to give me a hand. AND I small rebore could be on the cards :). Anyway continuing..... Took the fan housing off, and remved the speedo cable connectorrr. Removed plate at bottom of gearbox (not sure what its called) quite a few mistery bits i dont know the name of! Any help will be well recieved. Anyywwayyyyyyyy, i'll let the pictures do the talking, as we all LOVE SOME PICCIES!! :(. Learning from past mistakes all the bolts are safe and sound in takeaway boxes! :(

#19 almarsh132

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Posted 15 March 2011 - 07:31 PM

Probably not much for most of you, but ive never done anything like this before, think it isnt bad going for half a days work :(. who spotted the snapped circlip? :(

#20 almarsh132

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Posted 15 March 2011 - 07:35 PM

Did upload the pics in order but they are all muddled up :( nevermind!

#21 AndyMiniMad.

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Posted 15 March 2011 - 08:34 PM

Great work. Pity about the circlip.. Im glad your enjoying taking it to bits. You might need to try photobucket for your pics as TMF only allows 50 odd meg of pics as direct uploads. Did you get that nose bearing off? What are your plans for the gearbox. I love seeing this stuff. Good luck with this project, and if you get stuck the guys on here will help.

#22 liirge

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Posted 15 March 2011 - 08:37 PM

Ok, couple of little things,
1. The primary Gear, (Splined thing that sits on the crank top of the 3 transfer gears), you need to clean this up and the asses whether to use it again, taking into accounr of the two bushes that sit inside it, also check the crank for wear, where said 2 bushes run.

2. Looking at the flywheel and backplate (Pressure plate), it is likely they are going to need machining, as it looks like there is excessive corrosion on the friction surfaces, when getting these machined you need to find out how much was machined off both surfaces. This amount needs to be removed from the three lugs that protrude from the pressure plate.

3. If you are going to tune this engine, I would recommend that getting a lighter flywheel is a good idea, it makes a hell of a difference for driving, remember if you go too light it can affect the smoothness of the idle, as well as ability to catch on the starter motor and the inertia stored within the flywheel, slowing you down going up hills!

4. You have an A-series engine, gearbox and transfer housing, i recommend you replace both idler gear bearings even if they seem to be in good condition, this is because the A-series uses the smaller diameter shaft on the idler gear, and they have a tendency to fail more than the wider and later A+ versions.

5. That spring you removed from the block, there is a little plunger in there, remove this and check for any rough edges as it can stick open or closed either killing your oil pressure, or in the latter scenario send it through the roof, usually taking the oil filter seal with it, result: you loose all your oil in a couple of minutes!

6. Water pump maybe salvageable, if cleaned up and the impeller is ok and there is no play in the shaft, but always fear the worst, the old cast pump like yours is a lot better than the ally ones they build now.

On the whole it looks like a nice little project, I do enjoy the old smallbore rebuilds, interesting to see how people do things differently! Interesting to see what cam you have in there, often you find they've been uprated by past owners.

Good luck with it, and I hope i haven't bored you too much! - Just take your time and have fun, its all a good bit of experience

#23 almarsh132

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Posted 15 March 2011 - 08:38 PM

Great work. Pity about the circlip.. Im glad your enjoying taking it to bits. You might need to try photobucket for your pics as TMF only allows 50 odd meg of pics as direct uploads. Did you get that nose bearing off? What are your plans for the gearbox. I love seeing this stuff. Good luck with this project, and if you get stuck the guys on here will help.

Okay thanks i'll keep an eye on the pictures lol. Well from what I can see the gears look in good shape, I got the bearing off, but not the cog itself, the fajer is helping me at the weekend! :( Really enjoying it actually, and its going towards my degree so win-win really! :(

#24 almarsh132

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Posted 15 March 2011 - 08:39 PM

Did someone hear......................
........................
..................

























+40 rebore.......... :(

#25 liirge

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Posted 15 March 2011 - 08:43 PM

Did someone hear......................
........................
..................


+40 rebore.......... :(

Nice you'll have a 1030!! nice!

#26 almarsh132

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Posted 15 March 2011 - 08:44 PM

Thanks Liirge! Fancy becoming a lecturer as mine are boring as f**k haha! :(. Yes, I will be taking the parts into college to machine. Brobably lighten the existing flywheel as im on a very tight budget. Looking on the crankshaft looks immaculate! But, wont find out till its all of......... I will be reusing as much as possible :(.I'm going to come up with a spec next week and costings :)

#27 liirge

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Posted 15 March 2011 - 08:49 PM

Thanks Liirge! Fancy becoming a lecturer as mine are boring as f**k haha! :(. Yes, I will be taking the parts into college to machine. Brobably lighten the existing flywheel as im on a very tight budget. Looking on the crankshaft looks immaculate! But, wont find out till its all of......... I will be reusing as much as possible :(.I'm going to come up with a spec next week and costings :)


Sounds good, careful lightening those standard flywheel's they need to be in tip top shape, and not overly lightened.....put it this way they can shatter! And I've heard its not the most the pleasant for the driver! Oil pump might be salvageable as well, but you would need to take it apart and check all the clearances etc. Even if you buy a new one I would check the new one anyway, there has been a spate of dodgy clearances on parts of late.

Remember to cost in new cam followers, or if they are in REALLY good condition you can re-use them with the same cam, when taking them out remember what cam lobe they came off, as they will have worn to this lobe! if you are fitting a new cam, then you have to replace the followers anyway.

Looking forward to you setting your spec!

#28 almarsh132

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Posted 15 March 2011 - 09:35 PM

Any ideas of a rough estimate to get the block bored out to a 1038???

#29 liirge

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Posted 15 March 2011 - 09:42 PM

£60 i would say

#30 almarsh132

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Posted 15 March 2011 - 09:45 PM

bargain! :(




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