12 replies to this topic

[stu007]

Model: Rio 1275cc
Year:1993

About 3 weeks ago we were driving our mini to tesco when it became very hard to get her in gear, a few stalls later we got home.

The next day I investigated and found the clutch fluid was low, so thought that would be the cause of the problem.

I topped up the clutch fluid and bleed the clutch.

Looking under the bonnet now, the fluid is half way between max and min and Where I usually park I can see a mark on the road.

I've had a feel around by the slave cylinder, I think its leaking where the fluid enters from the master cylinder.

Can I repair this leak? Or do I need to replace the slave cylinder? Is it common for it to leak from where the fluid enters the cylinder?

How easy is it to remove?


Any help would be much appreciated

Thanks, Stuart.

[Ethel]

It may just need the banjo bolt nipping up. If that doesn't work, and it's the fitting rather than the actual hose, get a couple of new copper washers for it.

[stu007]

It may just need the banjo bolt nipping up. If that doesn't work, and it's the fitting rather than the actual hose, get a couple of new copper washers for it.

Can I tighten this with a spanner or is it only to be tightened by hand?

[Ethel]

Spanner

[Nu2mini]

It may just need the banjo bolt nipping up. If that doesn't work, and it's the fitting rather than the actual hose, get a couple of new copper washers for it.

I'd be suprised if this had come loose on on it's own. Normally only a problem if you've disturbed it while working on the system. I think your problem is more likely to be slave cylinder seals. Easy enough to fit a repair kit, though for peace of mind you may like to fit another slave cylinder. Repair kit works fine, but just be sure the bore and piston from old cylinder are not badly worn.

Please don't apply too much pressure to that banjo bolt you'll be sorry if you strip the thread.

[stu007]

Just tried to tighten the banjo bolt, having trouble getting a spanner on it due to the tight space.

Any tips?

Do I need to remove the cylinder from the flywheel?

Thanks, Suart.

[bmcecosse]

It will be the seals - easy and inexpensive job to fit new ones.

[stu007]

It will be the seals - easy and inexpensive job to fit new ones.

Had a look on minispares, I can't find seals for a slave cylinder.

Can anyone find them? Or know where I can buy them?

Thanks, Stuart.

[Nu2mini]

Verto Type = GRK4001

Verto Clutch Slave repair kit

Non Verto Uses GRK4008

Non Verto Clutch Slave repair kit

1993 Car should be Verto type

Edited by Nu2mini, 16 March 2011 - 05:14 PM.

[mk1leg]

you will also need to replace the copper washers on the banjo bolt..............

[stu007]

I've ordered the seals and washers from minispares, I'll let you know how I get on when they arrive.

Any tips or advice on fitting them?

[Nu2mini]

Any tips or advice on fitting them?

Pretty straight forward really if you follow the guidelines in the Haynes manual. Actual removal of the slave cylinder can prove a little awkward on verto setup as one of the bolts is hidden behind flywheel housing at an awkward angle. I found it easier to remove the slave cylinder still attached to its mounting plate. The other thing that can be frustrating is the removel of the plunger from the cylinder. This should just pop out once you get the cylinder off, though the haynes manual shows an internal circlip. Well mine didn't have a circlip and the plunger seemed to be fixed in the bore. IT'S NOT, but don't go poking at it. The reason it sticks is often due to the perished internal seal. Also the bore may have started to wear and may be pitted. This will be obvious when you inspect it. The way to release the plunger is to gently clean the top of the bore with a smal rag and a little petrol or alchohol. I wouldn't use anything abrasive. Then gently press the plunger down into the bore whilst lubricaing with some fresh clutch fluid. The return spring should return the plunger when you let go. Beware Nasty black old fluid will be forced out of the cylinder as you push the plunger so don't do this over the kitchen table !!!. Now once you've moved the plunger back and forward you sould see it start to return higher up the bore. If it doesn't make sure you've lubricated the bore well wth nice new clutch fluid. Put the cyliner somewhere safe and walk away from it for half an hour. More often than not the gentle pressure exerted by the internal spring will be enough to free the plunger all the way out. Your patience should be rewarded if not I'd say the cylinder bore was too far gone and the only solution is a new one. I replaced the seals in mine where the top of the bore was less than perfect 6 months ago and it's still OK so you can get away with some wear. Once the plunger is out it's fairly obvious what goes where. IF the plunger sticks just be patient DO NOT FORCE IT IN OR OUT. Use plenty of clean clutch fluid and it should ease off. Good luck and let us know how you get on

[stu007]

Who said this was an easy job?!

Just been outside for an hour, only managed to get one of the bolts off of the cylinder so far (The one nearest the front of the car, of the two holding the cylinder to the bracket)

Trying to get at the rear bolt is a nightmare, the access due to the distributor being in the way is horrible. Did manage to get a socket and wrench on it, but it didn't want to move.

Too dark now to continue, so I will have to put some wd40 to it and try again in the morning.