9 replies to this topic

[Carlos W]

[b]Mayfair
[b]1983

I'm currently replacing the inner and outer sills and door steps of my car and was just wondering whether people paint the inner sills and door step and the inner surface of the outer sill before putting the outer sill on! I know I'm likely to burn some of this paint off when I weld the outer sill on, and I intend to waxoil it all once the car is painted, and every year until I die!

Am I just making work, or do people think this is a good idea?

If it is a good idea, what paint should I use? (good old hammerite?)

[andymini12]

im just going to pump loads of waxoyl in mine, i think that is best.

[Spannermanal]

I painted the inside of mine before I welded them on but kept away from the areas which were going to be welded - or you could use a weld through primer. I used Zinc based primer. Although some may burn off, any additional protection is probably worth the effort before you waxoyl.

[oldman]

Hi
I painted all the inside of mine with rustoleum.
I think its a lot better than hammerite.
I am going to drill holes and fill it full of waxoil.
I was/am thinking about expanding foam to keep the water out.
Mad thought but it was used as a fix for rust back along.
Cheers
John

[paul_s]

I read somewhere (on here I think) that they used to use expanding foam in the early minis, but the problem was it ended up holding the water in making rot set it in more quickly.
Don't quote me on that as I'm just relaying what I read Worth bearing in mind though.

[Sprocket]

Read and digest

http://www.rust.co.uk

[Carlos W]

Read and digest

http://www.rust.co.uk

I'll have a good look at this, I definitely want to do something as I wont be waxoyling until it's painted (and that may be some time)

I'll also be looking at weld through primer!

Thanks for your opinions guys!

[Sprocket]

I don't rate weld primer. What tends to happen is it contaminates the weld, and usually results in the weld erupting like lava as it cools, and when ground back, it is usually hollow. This is a sure sign of dirty welds. For a good strong solid weld, the metal needs to be bright clean.

[sonikk4]

I don't rate weld primer. What tends to happen is it contaminates the weld, and usually results in the weld erupting like lava as it cools, and when ground back, it is usually hollow. This is a sure sign of dirty welds. For a good strong solid weld, the metal needs to be bright clean.

The Zinc rich primer from UPOL is very good and i have had no bad reaction with the welds at all. As long as the primer is sprayed onto clean metal then there should be no problem. This has been with plug welding and seam welding.

I have been using this now for some time on Project Erm and at the moment cannot fault it and all of my welds have been clean with none of them hollow.

Each to their own but i am not the only one to use this product on the forum and some of the more seasoned restorers have recommended it.

Just to add to this previously i had etched, primed and painted the joints to be welded and then removed the paint where required. Also i had completely sprayed both the inside of the outer sill and the inner sill area with primer and topcoat and then once welded pumped lots of waxoyl into the cavities. Maybe not the right way to do it but it does give protection and any paint burnt off around the welds would be covered by the waxoyl. I have changed this tactic now to using Zinc rich primer in the areas to be welded and the rest sprayed as above.

I have to admit with Erm once he was on the spit and we had flipped him over i had sprayed as much paint as possible into the sills through the flutes and then pumped Waxoyl in. Obviously if your car is not on a spit then the paint option would be difficult but at least with the Waxoyl they come with a flexible nozzle that you can point into most of the nooks and crannies.

Edited by sonikk4, 11 March 2011 - 09:31 PM.

[twrminisport]

fill them with waxoyl