Beam Axel Pros And Cons?
#1
Posted 11 March 2011 - 12:20 PM
#2
Posted 11 March 2011 - 12:32 PM
The down sides are...
1) you will lose your boot space.
2) you can end up with oversteer on heavy braking in to a corner..
A beam axle will be lighter as well
#3
Posted 11 March 2011 - 12:34 PM
Beam axle is alot of work.
#4
Posted 11 March 2011 - 12:38 PM
Rob
#5
Posted 11 March 2011 - 12:44 PM
#6
Posted 11 March 2011 - 12:46 PM
#7
Posted 11 March 2011 - 12:56 PM
I am planning on turning my subframe into a beam or whatever it is :SIs this ANOTHER thread where people get beam axles and rear beams/beam subframes mixed up?
#8
Posted 11 March 2011 - 02:04 PM
Rear Beam set up
Beam Axle
Both shamelessly nicked off google. A rear beam just saves weight and retains standard mini type suspension, a beam axle is completely different, keeps 100% of tyres in contact with surface when cornering hard unlike radius arms, however there is a large amount more unsprung weight.
#9
Posted 11 March 2011 - 02:06 PM
How would a beam axle fair on the lumpy roads we seem to have everywhere nowadays. Both wheels being joined I would imagine may be a slight disadvantage on uneven surfaces as they will mirror each other (hence the better turn in etc!) so hit a lump with inside wheel and the outside will kick up....causing loss of grip and major oversteer I would have thought!
Rob
Radius arms are the perfect suspension, if you eliminate body roll, because the wheel remains perpendicular to the car. If a bump deflects a solid axle (and lots of other suspension linkages) the wheel tilts and steers just like a bike when you lean it in to a corner.
2CV's have very sloppy suspension, but they also have radius arms on all 4 corners.
#10
Posted 11 March 2011 - 02:35 PM
OOOO ok thanks makes sense nowThere is a big difference between a rear beam, and a beam axle- not being funny if I sound so but here is the difference:
Rear Beam set up
Beam Axle
Both shamelessly nicked off google. A rear beam just saves weight and retains standard mini type suspension, a beam axle is completely different, keeps 100% of tyres in contact with surface when cornering hard unlike radius arms, however there is a large amount more unsprung weight.
what would you go for? and is it worth chopping up my subframe or just keep it as it is?
#11
Posted 11 March 2011 - 02:46 PM
#12
Posted 11 March 2011 - 03:03 PM
How would a beam axle fair on the lumpy roads we seem to have everywhere nowadays. Both wheels being joined I would imagine may be a slight disadvantage on uneven surfaces as they will mirror each other (hence the better turn in etc!) so hit a lump with inside wheel and the outside will kick up....causing loss of grip and major oversteer I would have thought!
Rob
Radius arms are the perfect suspension, if you eliminate body roll, because the wheel remains perpendicular to the car. If a bump deflects a solid axle (and lots of other suspension linkages) the wheel tilts and steers just like a bike when you lean it in to a corner.
2CV's have very sloppy suspension, but they also have radius arms on all 4 corners.
Cheers dude makes sense!
#13
Posted 11 March 2011 - 04:24 PM
Radius arms are the perfect suspension, if you eliminate body roll,
Unfortunately eliminateing body roll is not as easy as making and fitting a beam axle, on lumby and bumpy surfaces they are great as long as you don't get any axle tramp, ie with a panhard rod as the car goes up it also follows an arc dictated by the panhard rod, therefore the body moves from side to side, now if you design the panhard rod to avoid this, ie a "Y" shaped 3 point "panhard" type part then your handling will be great
#14
Posted 11 March 2011 - 05:38 PM
This was explained to me years ago as follows:
Road-holding is a measurement of the cars ability to resist the centrifugal force acting at right angles to the direction of travel when cornering and is measured in 'G's'.
Handling is the way in which the car responds dynamically to steering, braking and power inputs as perceived by the driver.
It is, therefore, possible to have a car which has poor (in relative terms) roadholding, but excellent handling. I think that a good example of this might be the original Ford Anglia on cross-ply tyres.
A Mini, in general, has both good road-holding and good handling, although in some motorsport disciplines it is possible to trade road-holding for handling. This happens with rally cars where handling is critical at all times and road holding can be compromised due to the type of tyre being used and the suspension settings. I've also driven track cas where the road-holding was superb, but the handling was only so-so.
I hope this is helpful.
#15
Posted 11 March 2011 - 08:24 PM
Quite possibly the best handling car i have ever driven!
It is well worth buying the pre-made aluminium beam which can be swapped with your existing subframe in only a few hours (subject to ability, hidden rust and changes to suspension)
Once fitted, you also have much more control over geometry set up... i fitted mine at the same time as adjustable tie bars, lower arms and coil overs all round, then was unable to drive the car at over 10mph to the place that set it up with tyres squealing at every corner and the feeling that the back was trying to overtake the front!
Thankfully, Pitstop at Brize norton set the car up and it handled like it was on Rails!
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