10 replies to this topic

[MacroMan]

Model: Rover Mini 1000
Year: '91

I've just got my Haynes manual through ('96 edition, never been read, can you believe it?). I can find all the information I could ever need about how to dismantle things and how they go back together and what the gaps of certain things should be. But nowhere in there can I find out how to time my engine effectively.

When I got my mini, the timing and mixture where way out, so I've timed it by ear by twisting the dizzy as best as I could, but it's not quite right.

I've searched high and low on Google for an answer, but I can only find details of why timing is important and about the Top Dead Center. Where can I get info on actually timing it properly, like with a strobe light and everything?

David

[bmcecosse]

You are on the right track - just advance the timing until you hear 'pinking' when you accelerate in top gear - then ease it back slightly so it's not quite pinking. Also check the vacuum advance is connected - and working as it should.. Suck the pipe and watch to see the dizzy plate move and return.

[Ethel]

I wonder if there's anything on Gunson's site since they make timing lights - youtube might be good too.

I'm sure someone can write a good reply, but you may prefer something with piccies or video.

[James182]

I use a strobe light. i put a bit of tipex on the notch in the crank pulley (timing mark) and i remove the vaccum advance to the dizzy. then start the engine and turn the idle screw on the carb to 1500 rpm. then turn the strobe light knob to what ever the timing is ie 10 degrees. then push the button and the light will illuminate the tippexed mark then turn the dizzy till they line up and tighten the dizzy retaining bolt. recheck that its right and put the vaccum advance back on. loosen off the idle screw so it idles about 900 rpm and that should be timed. Check the contact breaker points gap to be sure and away you go.

[James182]

I could do you a video at the weekend if you like?

[S2000Steve]

Try this article on mini spares site.
Distributor - Initial ignition timing set-up.

[MacroMan]

Thanks for the tips guys. I didn't think of youtube at first. I found this video which gave me some insight:
http://www.youtube.c...feature=related

Someone else may find it handy

David

[Ethel]

Nice find, it applies nicely to an A Series too - the only difference is an A series dizzy (rotor arm) rotates counter clockwise so turn it (the dizzy body) clockwise to advance.

Also the timing scale fixed and the TDC pointer moves so the scale reads the opposite way on i.e. TDC is the big peak at the top and each peak nearer the front of the car is 4 degrees of advance ( so you get 2 degrees accuracy by setting it on a peak or valley)




Oh,

...and number one cylinder is the one nearest that end of the engine (fan belt end).

[bmcecosse]

However you have no idea what setting to use for YOUR engine. And at 1500 rpm - the mechanical advance is coming into play! Setting to 'not quite pinking' is the best you can do - unless you have access to a dynamometer and can spend a LOT of time setting up the advance curve for all engine speeds and loads.......

[MacroMan]

I don't have access to a dynamometer (rolling road?), but I do have a timing light and spare time, so trial and error I think I'll get close enough to matter. I just need to make sure I'm not going to damage my engine.

David

[lrostoke]

The pinking method mentioned is the one for optimum power from your engine.
From the factory the settings tend to lean towards safety and reliabilty not peak power.

A series engine can take around 34 degrees of advance at around 4000 - 4500 rpm.
If you have a timing light with the advance function set it to 34 degrees, set your engine revs to 4000 then adjust dizzy so the notch and big pointer line up. This should time your engine to 34 degrees @ 4000 rpm.

Now test run it and listen for pinking as mentioned earlier, If it pinks try 32 degrees, keep test running and knocking back the timing until it no pinking. You want to try a few steep inclines to get some load on the engine.

Fuel octane can affect timing advance so it is a bit trial and error.