563 replies to this topic

[minimuk]

in this nice wheather it is a timeless excersize when preparing panels,......lots of tea....

I prepared the heel panel drilling umpty holes and then Por15 over it,





no point watching paint dry decided to attack the old front panel, taking all the old crap off, cleaned it with a wire brush first then flap disk here and there getting old welds off(wing-lips), took all the vinplates,comission plates etc of the slam panel and hammer and dollied the panel back in shape, re-welded it back onto the front panel. used a paint removing sponge on the grinder and cleaned all as much as possible, then drenched the lot in Por Metal Prep and rinsed it off, then used 8 teaspoons of Por15 and gave it a good coat on the front, rear to be done tomorrow, well happy with the result and defo a few bob saved.
16 month ago


after,crap clearing, cleaning, welding and rinsing


nice bitta Por15
 front panel prep 3.jpg   122.7K   14 downloads
good day all in all

could not resist going back in the garage tonight and coated the inside of the panel 2


More time for summit else tmr

Edited by minimuk, 25 May 2012 - 08:33 PM.

[grahama]

Muk,

does the por 15 not burn off when welding, and where not burnt off do you just paint over it ??

Graham

[minimuk]

Muk,

does the por 15 not burn off when welding, and where not burnt off do you just paint over it ??

Graham

Graham, I have plugwelded through a pre-drilled holes straight onto a panel with Por15, it melts 1ish mm around the welding point and set's again,it is a good conductor.
As for painting, it states on the tin, 'you can apply a topcoat of any finishing paint' so I take that as a Yes.
Check out Frost UK website and click on Por15 and then info.

Edited by minimuk, 25 May 2012 - 08:41 PM.

[minimuk]

finally a day with some playtime, busy at work over the weekend, first the lawn,... and then garage
The heal board was bugging me for a few days now and had to be offered today to be able not to loose the game with Evy,...welding on is the easy part and for those who have replaced a full heal panel now the pains and aches to get the alignment right, this took me a good hour again
With my home made spirit level for leveling the whole car, and a spirit level on the heal board,just to make sure, strings with weights to measure subby bolt-hole distances on both sides(no crabbin allowed!), measuring top heal board to bottum ledge rear windows, last but not least, end heal-board panel to centre front wheel,...

spirit level 51mm both sides

heal board clamped on
 heal board offered 1.jpg   118.73K   15 downloads
level spot on heal board

taking all measurements again and line up to previous markings aligned from subby last week, plug welded to the tunnel and rear bin's

sanded back

por15

picture from inside


I suppose next step I will offer the floor on the subby and plug the floor in position.....

Edited by minimuk, 29 May 2012 - 02:28 PM.

[minimuk]

bit of a set-back, only little bit though... the boot hinge panel, although repaired a while back was not straight enough and had to come off, the bottum corners from the bootlid where sticking out because the corners of the rear panel where crabbing inwards, bought a new hinge panel and used self tappers to align the rear panel corners propperly and positioned the new hinge panel. I have decided to use self-tappers for the arches,rear seats and all else before any welding is to be done, just to make sure all is aligned perfectly. Only got one chanse at this or do the lot again......

Boot panel B4, looks ok but close up it is not..


off-side corner positioned wiv self-tappers


near-side corner positioned with self-tappers
 boot hinge panel repair 2.jpg   109.51K   18 downloads

I will however weld the new hinge panel to the corners tmr hopefully.

Edited by minimuk, 01 June 2012 - 10:19 PM.

[jagman.2003]

Looking like a great job with all these panels. I used self tappers as much as possible. Then welded every other one to maintain position, before welding the lot. They give a little bit of adjustment if required. Keep up the good work.

[minimuk]

slow progress today, lining up new hinge panel and weld it in position, was windy in the Garage with the door open...still managed it, will look better when finished.

lining up was easy just matching the weldfacias was not, bit of tweeking was needed


after clamping, hammer&dolly, swearing and bashing, welded on and sanded back


Used Por Metalclean to clean weld areas after wire brushing it and slapped on some filler


had enough of it then, well with all that wind and chill in the air, wearing shorts to as it is Summer,
I was not in the mood of flattening the filler, maybe tmr

[STREET TWEAKS]

mate i bet you felt like kicking it , i know i wood lol . but well done again

[minimuk]

As I am a bit of a nobies in fillering and flattening, this is a slower process, but I am enjoying it.......

2 pictures from my flettened filler excersize from above.....




although it looks alright,...it does not feel flat enough

so a bit more filler required



will give it a bit more sanding tmr....

[ToM 2012]

looking very good minimuk doing a cracking job again cheers tom

[minimuk]

a bit more fillerin today, I am there I think, etch primer tmz

near-side;






off-side;






getting the hang of this fillerin, boot lid sits nice bearing in ming and allowe for seal
bit of etch primerin and carry on with the floor

[IwanDavies95]

looking good :)

can i ask, do you have to filler then primer or can you primer then filler then primer?

thanks Iwan

[grahama]

Is the primer over bare metal of just well roughed up e coat?? Mine to do in a bit so after info !!

Graham

[minimuk]

looking good :)

can i ask, do you have to filler then primer or can you primer then filler then primer?

thanks Iwan

Iwan hi,

it is all about adhesion, I prefer to use filler on prepered bare metal, and use 'Por Metal prep' before aplying, then use etch primer when totally flattened and after primer ready for paint .

However I do know a few people on here who use etch primer before aplying filler, but as I said before,..it is all about adhesion.

[STREET TWEAKS]

hi mate right then when filling its best the fill on bear metal ( if you can ) . now the best way to start when mixing the filler is a golf ball of filler to a pea size of hardener ( on cold days ues alittle more hardener ) as it will take longer to dry but not lots as the filler will go pink and will bleed thorw your paint work when the car is sprayed .

when puting the filler on if its your 1st time ues small amounts and slowley build it up uesing more over the repair to get the finnish you need .( if this takes 2,3,4 times so be it ) as time and care is needed here as it will look sh*t when sprayed .

sanding down start with a 80 grit sand paper the when it feels and looks right to you , you can then start uesing 180 grit and 320 grit paper the finnish off . if it helps when sanding ues a black spray can over the repair to find high and low spots in the filler .

primeing here you can ues a high build primer 1k or 2k and you can get sum good ones in spray cans to , if you etch prime 1st great this all helps , give the primer time to dry before flatting down , again use a black spray can over the primer this helps show scratchs up in the filler , then prime and flat again uesing 800 wet and dry

p.s always look for pin holes in the filler after primering .

hope this helps you and others

wayne

Edited by STREET TWEAKS, 11 June 2012 - 09:37 PM.