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Fuel And Temp Gauge Not Working


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#1 woody83

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Posted 05 February 2011 - 05:00 PM

Model: Mayfair
Year: 1985
Description of problem (please be as in depth as possible):


Just got my mini back on the road after buying it in january to find the fuel and temp arnt working :( . After a quick search on the forum i realize that this question has been asked a few times before and i have sort of come to the conclusion that the volt regulator may be broken but im not sure and if so i not sure how to fix it. I have the two clock style gauges but the fuel and temp gauge doesn't work. The light on the fuel and temp gauge doesn't work either but the speedo one does. Any help will be appreciated :D


Thanks
Woody.

#2 maryquant

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Posted 05 February 2011 - 05:08 PM

If a light isnt working too - could it be a dodgy connector, or fuse?

#3 dklawson

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Posted 05 February 2011 - 06:40 PM

The speedometer is mechanical (cable driven) so the fact that it is working is not a surprise. However, are you saying that the lamps for the speedo work... but the rest of the gauge lamps do not?

The fuel and temp gauges are powered by the output of the voltage stabilizer and you are correct that when both gauges are not working it indicates an electrical supply problem. Since so many electrical items are not working I anticipate you will need to remove the gauge cluster to examine it. The lamps may simply be burned out. The gauges not working could be from a failed voltage stabilizer or this could be the result of a broken circuit trace and/or corroded contacts and wires.

Once you have ruled out or fixed broken, corroded and disconnected wiring behind the dash, then you can consider replacing the voltage stabilizer. On Smiths gauge this will be attached to the back of the gauge cluster. It looks like a small rectangular metal can perhaps the size of the end joint on your thumb. If on the other hand these are the Nippon Seiki gauges (look for "NS" on the circuit trace) their gauges have a built in voltage stabilizer making repair more difficult.

#4 woody83

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Posted 05 February 2011 - 07:31 PM

Ok thanks i'll give it a go tomorrow.

Woody.

#5 woody83

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Posted 06 February 2011 - 01:27 PM

Ok i have just got the clocks out and have had a look at the wiring and i cant see anything that looks unusual, i can see voltage stabilizer, is this a easy thing to replace?

What i mean by the lights not working is when i put my headlights on the speedo lights up but the fuel temp gauge doesnt, i am guessing it should i have never had a mini with a 2 clock before, the lights on the fuel temp guage like the ignition and fuel beam light work. Could the problem be the fuel sender if so how could i check this?

Thanks

Woody.

#6 woody83

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Posted 06 February 2011 - 05:37 PM

Can anyone help? need to fix this ASAP... :P

Thanks

#7 dklawson

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Posted 06 February 2011 - 06:35 PM

Let me point out again that you said both the temp and fuel gauges are not working. Therefore, it is not likely to be the fuel sending unit. However, the topic of fuel and temperature gauges not working comes up frequently on the board. Please browse through some of the thread links below concerning testing and replacing the fuel sending unit.
http://www.theminifo...x...505&hl=fuel
http://www.theminifo...x...358&hl=fuel
http://www.theminifo...x...282&hl=fuel

Before you buy either a sending unit or a voltage stabilizer, look gain at the back of your gauge cluster AND at the two sending units (temp and fuel). In the engine bay, the temperature sending unit on the carbureted cars is on the cylinder head just above and to the right of spark plug #1 (radiator end of the block). The sending unit is a horizontally mounted brass piece with an electrical spade lug on it. The spade lug should have a green/blue wire on it. Make sure the sending unit wire is in place.

In the boot you will find the fuel sending unit has two wires on it. The black wire should be connected to a spade lug that is in electrical contact with the sending unit's mounting flange. The green/black wire should be on the sending unit terminal that is insulated from the flange (not making electrical contact). Make sure both wires are in place AND connected to the correct spade terminal.

Since you were able to locate the stabilizer, it should easily be removed and replaced on the back of the gauge cluster. Perform the checks above before investing in one. Another test you can perform involves using a multimeter set to measure volts. With the ignition turned on, you should find voltage between earth and the green/black (fuel sender) wire and the green/blue (temp sender) wire. The voltage will be jumping around and hard to measure accurately with a digital meter. However, the voltage should be there. If it is not, then the gauges are not getting voltage from the stabilizer. If you remove the voltage stabilizer from the back of the cluster you should find that the stabilizer has its terminals marked "B" and "I". Look at where those terminals connect to the gauge cluster. With the ignition on, you should find 12 volts on the place where the "B" terminal plugs in. If you do not find 12V, you have a voltage supply problem to the gauge cluster.

#8 woody83

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Posted 06 February 2011 - 06:56 PM

Thank you very much, well descirbed :P

Woody.




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