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Do I Need A Torque Wrench


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#46 Kam

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Posted 18 January 2011 - 11:33 PM

Some people on here need to get off there effin high horse, just because someone has been doing it for years don't mean they are god and know better than other experienced folk

makes sense to me and i've decided to hold off and buy my self a decent torque wrench (im not saying anyone is wrong or right i think i prefer things by the book thats all)


OP as above is buying a torque wrench, not just for the job in hand (whether its needed or not for that job) but because he is going by peoples experience and knowledge on here, a torque setting is needed for his own peace of mind as thats what its there for and thats whats in the book he wants to follow, and will be for other jobs he will come across

Nothing wrong with that >_<

#47 midridge2

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Posted 19 January 2011 - 10:36 AM

i think there is some factors to look at.

are you sure the tw is calibrated ok? how many times have we heard people on forums etc mention using a tw for loosing really tight nuts/bolts.
how good is the tw if bought new? again on forums there has been debates about the accuricy sp of a new tw.
how often have the nuts/bolts been on and off and been over tightned and stretched, this will throw the torque figures out.
are you 100% sure there is no oil/grease etc when you retorque them.

#48 MRA

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Posted 19 January 2011 - 06:34 PM

I spent over £400 on certificated torque wrenches years ago which I use regularly, but I do not agree that everything needs a torque wrench. If it were please answer: how many car manufacturers have ever supplied a torque wrench with the spare wheel kit found in all cars? As you suggest- wheels staying on is a pretty big safety factor, yet Mr and Mrs Bloggs over the entire world are trusted with a 10" long wheel nut bar.

And for a big castellated nut you can easily work out how hard to do it up, if its 90ft/lb then its quite simply 30lbs on a 3ft bar, and a locking pin makes it safer still. Dont get me wrong- on things like that I do sometimes use a torque wrench but I'm just saying I dont see it as absolutely necessary except with particular parts and in particular applications. Most of the old skool mechanics I know probably used a torque wrench once in a blue moon, and none have any embarrasing stories about not doing things up tight enough.

To the OP, yes a torque wrench should be in your tool kit, use it when you can, but the more stuff you do the less you will feel you need it for everyday things, not ideal perhaps but more than likely to happen at some point! And with regards to which one- dont forget you get what you pay for, Teng tools are very good, as are halfrauds tools, personally I wouldn't consider buying a cheapo no name one as I could never trust it.


Most automotive manuacturers that I know use torque wrenches on all fixings, especially wheel nuts........ just because there isn't one in the car doesn't mean it doesn't have to be done..... The owners handbook will tell you what to do after a wheel change, most will say take it a specialist to get it all checked out..... The onus is then on the garage to check that the work has been done correctly.

Although you may be able to work out the torque rating in "sacks of spuds" it doesn't mean it's right, in calibration testing of torque wrenches you will clearly see that if it is held differently or at a different angle you will get different readings.

There is no locking pin in the CV joint of a Mini, if the nut comes loose the pin will in 9/10 times simply shear off.

Old school mechanics without embarrassing tales to tell who are you trying to kid..... :)

What a good torque wrench will do is to preload a fixing to ensure no movement and hence lower chance of failure.

I use several torque wrenches for my own and for my customers, that way if I get a failure I can honestly say I used a torque wrench, I did my job properely.

How would you feel if your loved one was hit by a car........ and the owner says I wished I had used a torque wrench ? (they may not say that but VOSA would when they finish inspecting it :) )

The OP has got their hear screwed on properely they have already started looking for a torque wrench , good on you :)

#49 mini93

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Posted 19 January 2011 - 10:43 PM

how many times have we heard people on forums etc mention using a tw for loosing really tight nuts/bolts.


not many...if any...if they do they need to take that same torque wrench and swing it at their face, clearly not using a tool in the correct mannor its designed for and shouldnt be allowed to work on a car

#50 MRA

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Posted 19 January 2011 - 11:33 PM

Instead of threatening violence to someone..... maybe you could do a write up on the do's and dont's of using a torque wrench and why they are do's and dont's ??? then you would be helping those that are not so gifted as yourself :D

#51 lrostoke

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Posted 20 January 2011 - 05:00 AM

when ever we have wheels removed on vans at work they always come back with a sticker saying retorque to X amount after 50 miles.

Ive seen HGV fitters checking wheelnuts on trucks when they return to base on daily basis.

Appart from making sure tight enough its also a good way of making sure not overtight stretching the stud and stripping threads

#52 PhilipGCaldwell

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Posted 20 January 2011 - 09:06 AM

torque settings are there for a reason, I always stick to them, manufacturers wouldnt go to the bother of publishing them if they werent important.

I know its personal choice but I think to do the job properly torque it properly instead of just doing everything busting tight then when you come to dismantle it in the future you shear all your bolts!

#53 jbonevia

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Posted 20 January 2011 - 09:20 AM

This was an interesting link of someone (someone on here?) who changed their wheel bearings on a mini and didnt have a torque wrench that could measure up to the required torque:

http://www.myminipro...ucy/mini19.html

To quote:
"Note: I found that although I owned the torque wrench that Mini Magazine recommended, it only went up to 210Nm, but the Haynes manual said to tighten to 255 - 270Nm (for drive shafts with a single splitpin hole). So I set the torque wrench to 100Nm and tightened the nut. I then removed the wrench and marked one edge of the nut against the hub with a piece of metal. I then set the wrench to 150Nm and did the same again noting any movement. I did the same again for 200Nm. Noticing how little distance was between the 3 markings, I got the biggest socket bar I owned and fitted the socket to it, and then attempted to move the nut to where I thought 255 - 270Nm should be. I had to stand on the damn thing! I then had to move it a few mm more so that I could get the splitpin back in.

Lastly, I torque'd up the road wheel nuts to the recommended 60Nm and took the Mini for a drive. All was quiet once again!"


I've been looking around for a torque wrench that can do up to 300Nm, they are quite a bit more expensive than your run of the mill 210Nm ones.

#54 Dan

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Posted 20 January 2011 - 09:36 AM

The largest wrench from Halfords measures up to 300 Nm, costs only £20.00 more than their smaller ones (at £80.00 currently), is pretty hard to abuse because you have to physically reverse the drive lug to get it to work to loosen, and comes with a calibration certificate and serial number. Pretty hard to beat. It works down to 60 Nm and will handle almost anything you need on a Mini. I have the smallest and largest Halfords wrenches and between them they cover everything.

Incidentaly, there is nothing wrong with using a torque wrench to loosen fixings. The only way to hurt a torque wrench is to drive it beyond its measurement range. In fact certain dismantling and stripping procedures in certain industries require the measurement and recording of release torques for critical fixings as part of the maintenance log of equipment and machines.

#55 Chris_R

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Posted 20 January 2011 - 11:06 AM

I can't believe some of the bad advice given on here in response to the OP's question :D Of course people who have been working on cars for many many years will have a feel or instinct for how tight is tight enough, but the best advice for anyone new to a particular piece of work on the car must be to torque the bolts to the specified setting

#56 dale.lavender

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Posted 20 January 2011 - 11:24 PM

Just thought id let everyone know I bought a torque wrench today, so should come in handy, ended up getting the one from machine mart. I'll not get round to doing the job while next week now and I was thinking of replacing the nuts e.g castle nut, hub nuts and calliper retaining bolts. Is this a good idea? And if so I can't seem to find the castle nut or hub nuts on minispares.com. Is there anything else I should be looking at replacing while the wheels off?
Thanks everyone for the help
DL

#57 Kam

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Posted 20 January 2011 - 11:44 PM

Type in the search bar for minispares:

front hub nut

The other stuff should be fine but no harm in checking them over, caliper retaining bolts are cheap enough so no harm in replacing them, especially if yours are starting to round off.....not that thats happened to me :)

Other than that just give everything else a good yank (non american) and see whats got play or not

#58 Scott MPI

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Posted 21 January 2011 - 12:20 AM

every nut and bot does a job, a torque probably stops you from over doing it

but did anyone when tightening the seat belt bolt think what torque it should be!!

#59 1984mini25

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Posted 21 January 2011 - 12:40 AM

To all the ones who use a torque wrench to rebuild engine, how many torque the spark plus as well or during a service? As it’s in the Haynes.

Edited by 1984mini25, 21 January 2011 - 12:40 AM.


#60 998dave

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Posted 21 January 2011 - 09:08 AM

To quote:
"Note: I found that although I owned the torque wrench that Mini Magazine recommended, it only went up to 210Nm, but the Haynes manual said to tighten to 255 - 270Nm (for drive shafts with a single splitpin hole). So I set the torque wrench to 100Nm and tightened the nut. I then removed the wrench and marked one edge of the nut against the hub with a piece of metal. I then set the wrench to 150Nm and did the same again noting any movement. I did the same again for 200Nm. Noticing how little distance was between the 3 markings, I got the biggest socket bar I owned and fitted the socket to it, and then attempted to move the nut to where I thought 255 - 270Nm should be. I had to stand on the damn thing! I then had to move it a few mm more so that I could get the splitpin back in.
Lastly, I torque'd up the road wheel nuts to the recommended 60Nm and took the Mini for a drive. All was quiet once again!"

I'm afraid that wouldn't work, as torque increases exponentially as things get compressed...


Just thought id let everyone know I bought a torque wrench today, so should come in handy, ended up getting the one from machine mart. I'll not get round to doing the job while next week now and I was thinking of replacing the nuts e.g castle nut, hub nuts and calliper retaining bolts. Is this a good idea? And if so I can't seem to find the castle nut or hub nuts on minispares.com. Is there anything else I should be looking at replacing while the wheels off?
Thanks everyone for the help
DL

Good stuff, and a good move. Check the pads and disks are okay, and give the brake hoses a look over too.


every nut and bot does a job, a torque probably stops you from over doing it
but did anyone when tightening the seat belt bolt think what torque it should be!!

Yes - as there are fairly standard torques for different bolt sizes.


To all the ones who use a torque wrench to rebuild engine, how many torque the spark plus as well or during a service? As it’s in the Haynes.

Yes - when refitting spark plugs I tighten to the correct torque.




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