14 replies to this topic

[Mini Man Dan]

Hi,

I have a 1981 HL that over the years has had the wiring butchered by many people. I have decided that to try and sort out the reliability issues I need to replace the loom. Now I know that building my own loom would be a very slow and time consuming process but this doesn't really phase me.

So my question is, is it really worth building your own loom? Or is it best to buy a standard loom off the shelf? If you would build your own what modifications would you make to it? Would you re-route any wires? Use different connectors or components?

The car is fairly standard 998cc carb engine, I just have spotlights, radio, and I would also like to fit an immobiliser too.

All feedback much appreciated.
Dan

Edited by Mini Man Dan, 15 January 2011 - 01:42 PM.

[bmcecosse]

Depends entirely if you have the time. I made a custom loom for a rally Mini many years ago - didn't take that long and was completely satisfactory.

[Ethel]

Have you had a look at Autosparks site?

[dklawson]

Your post makes it sound like you are looking forward to the challenge of making your own loom. It is certainly possible but in the end may be more work than it is worth even if you like a challenge.

To do this properly (for future owners) you will need to retain the standard wire color scheme. Therefore you will be buying small amounts of wire in special colors which in turn means higher cost. To mate with existing components, most of the terminals will have to remain the same. However, you could do "some" re-design to use a more modern fuse box and perhaps add fusing on more circuits than stock. However, to be of use to future owners you will need to fully document what you have done. Still... making your own loom is certainly a task that can be done and I'm sure the end result will be very satisfying.

If you are replacing all the car's wiring, one place I would do things differently is with the headlight wiring. I would make new headlight wiring sub-harness with heavier wire and fewer bullet connections behind the grille. I would also add a relay panel for the headlights. For future use, I would include additional un-used wires that pass from the engine bay to inside the passenger compartment. Similarly, I would add a couple of additional un-used wires to the rear loom going to the boot. These could be used for future accessories OR in place of the "standard" wires if one of them fails for some reason.

[Mini Man Dan]

Depends entirely if you have the time. I made a custom loom for a rally Mini many years ago - didn't take that long and was completely satisfactory.

What gauge wire did you use for it? and do you have any tips?

Have you had a look at Autosparks site?

I have had a quote from autosparks for a standard loom (front and rear) £220 plus carriage and VAT.

[mike.]

I've thought about this myself before.

I think if I ever did this, I would buy a full replacement loom, and then create a second loom with a second fuse box for any non standard extras like radio, spotlights, or alarms. Then it can all be wrapped together and routed together, with the fuse boxes mounted on the bulkhead.

This way you've got all your extra bits wired properly on their on fuses.

Another option - Although pricey, where you can still make your own loom is something like this: Link

[Mini Man Dan]

Your post makes it sound like you are looking forward to the challenge of making your own loom. It is certainly possible but in the end may be more work than it is worth even if you like a challenge.

To do this properly (for future owners) you will need to retain the standard wire color scheme. Therefore you will be buying small amounts of wire in special colors which in turn means higher cost. To mate with existing components, most of the terminals will have to remain the same. However, you could do "some" re-design to use a more modern fuse box and perhaps add fusing on more circuits than stock. However, to be of use to future owners you will need to fully document what you have done. Still... making your own loom is certainly a task that can be done and I'm sure the end result will be very satisfying.

If you are replacing all the car's wiring, one place I would do things differently is with the headlight wiring. I would make new headlight wiring sub-harness with heavier wire and fewer bullet connections behind the grille. I would also add a relay panel for the headlights. For future use, I would include additional un-used wires that pass from the engine bay to inside the passenger compartment. Similarly, I would add a couple of additional un-used wires to the rear loom going to the boot. These could be used for future accessories OR in place of the "standard" wires if one of them fails for some reason.

I would enjoy the challenge of it and I have already put more time and money into my Mini than it is worth so I guess that can't really phase me either.

I think a sub harness for the headlights and spotlights could be a good idea.

Does anyone know the various grade/guage of wire needed for the different components? As I don't want to make it unsafe by using wire not up to the job.

Thanks,
Dan

[sean1380]

i bought a loom from minisport years ago for my clubby

was under £200 and was good enough,i didnt have any problems and it fitted fine

i i were too do a loom,id prob just buy a ready made one, identify what circuits i wanted too adjust and get coloured cable too match or use the good parts of old loom (assuming its the same guage)
then modify the new one too how i wanted i.e in car fuses,extra guages,full pump sw wires,amp sw wires etc and like dklawson said additional wires too rear and front so when its all back together you dont need too pull any more wires in

on guage of cable,circuits will vary regarding on ampage

[Stevie W]

I went down the new loom from Minispares route when building my re-shell project as this seemed the cheapest and easiest option.
I wanted to upgrade to an alternator and have a rear mounted electric fuel pump so simply bought the correct loom.

I've made up sub-looms for the rear fog/reverse light and rear speakers and relayed looms for the air horns and driving lamps at the front.

Most of the wire and connectors are available from places like Hellfrauds, although you are limited to wire colours.
I buy stuff like cable clamps and relays from a site called Auto Electric supplies who are very good!!!

Steve

[M44K TS]

I've thought about this myself before.

I think if I ever did this, I would buy a full replacement loom, and then create a second loom with a second fuse box for any non standard extras like radio, spotlights, or alarms. Then it can all be wrapped together and routed together, with the fuse boxes mounted on the bulkhead.

This way you've got all your extra bits wired properly on their on fuses.

Another option - Although pricey, where you can still make your own loom is something like this: Link

That's pretty much what I did, apart from I repaired my original loom instead of buying a 2nd hand one.

The CBS wiring module's are a bit cheap looking, I'm not keen on the terminals they've used. You'd be better off finding an engine bay fusebox from a car, like this...

http://cgi.ebay.co.u...3#ht_500wt_1077

... then incorporating that into the original wiring.

[Ethel]

I've used AES, in Wakefield, too - better if you can call in person. My loom came from a Metro, but I am using matching stalks etc. Even so it's a cheap way to get cable in the right grades & colours - if they wear it's usually at the connections, which can be cut out.

Autosparks offer the best range of Austin/Rover connectors. There's also Polevolt & Vehicle wiring products online, you'll find some info on wire ratings etc on their sites.

[Mini Man Dan]

Does anyone have any idea how many different colour combinations I would need for the whole loom? (I dont have access to a haynes at the minute).

Also is there much benefit in using thin wall cable over standard pvc cable?

Thanks,
Dan

[Ethel]

http://www.autospark...vdk5e35eped5ud0 - Rover mostly followed that.

Yeah thin wall cable is thinner




Dissipates heat a bit better and makes for a more flexible loom too.

[Mini Man Dan]

http://www.autospark...vdk5e35eped5ud0 - Rover mostly followed that.

Yeah thin wall cable is thinner




Dissipates heat a bit better and makes for a more flexible loom too.

Cheers Ethel!

[MRA]

TWC also carries a higher temp rating in most cases T4 upto 125 degrees..... It's not only the colours, you have to remember the trace colours and the fact that you may have numerous core sizes for those colours

I made my own harness about 20 years ago, I was lucky enough to have the correct crimp tooling (not those cr**** things that are supposed to fit all terminals) if I had to buy the tooling again it would be in the thousands of pounds, now if you risk using the bodge it tools then you will definately not get a good crimp, there will be air in the joint that will start corroding, it may take years or it may take weeks but it will happen

oh yes then you will have the "solder it" brigade...... solder by its very nature will do 2 things, one is it will "wick" up the wire and cause a brittle fracture, the second is if not cleaned correctly after soldering it will cause a caustic corrosion to start. Avoid like man flu...

If yo upurchase one form Autosparks then you are assured that you are getting a quality component, how do I know this ? because we only use Autosparks on our own cars and yes we also stock them.