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Want To Make A Rally Style Mini.


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#16 minijules

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Posted 25 November 2013 - 12:02 PM

Hi..I've taken mine as close as I can without a role cage and of cause external hinge mod..........

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What arches are these? are the grou 2?



#17 Cooperman

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Posted 25 November 2013 - 12:05 PM

Those are the original type 'Works' arches as fitted to the Group 2 cars.

Every time I have them on a rally Mini I seem to break them off fairly quickly :gimme: .



#18 minijules

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Posted 25 November 2013 - 12:06 PM

cheers, i'll be getting some now :)



#19 Cooperman

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Posted 25 November 2013 - 12:11 PM

cheers, i'll be getting some now :)

 

The best way to fit them is to use M5 Rivnuts and stainless steel socket head cap screws and stainless steel washers.

The other thing it to fettle the arch lip at the point where it meets the sill flange using a small quantity of Araldite and filing it so that the plastic chrome trim strip slides on easily. It is very easy to split the chrome trim when fitting it. I always use a hair dryer to warm the trim strip locally when fitting it with the trim clips. A small blob of adhesive at each end stops the trim from coming off under rallying conditions too.

I hope this helps.



#20 Carlos W

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Posted 25 November 2013 - 12:16 PM

I love the fog light and reversing light in the valance, it would look amazing on my de-bumpered car!



#21 Cooperman

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Posted 25 November 2013 - 12:23 PM

Do these help?

 

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#22 Black.Ghost

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Posted 25 November 2013 - 12:25 PM

Mk1leg, when I first look at that car, I don't see rally I have to admit. I do see a beautiful mini though that looks as close to perfect as you would want for a road going mini. Definitely in my top 5 on here.



#23 cal844

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Posted 25 November 2013 - 12:29 PM

my road car fitted with a genuine lucas spotlight (this is wired on a seperate switch which i use for reversing at night)

 

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#24 RedRallyMini

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Posted 25 November 2013 - 12:33 PM

A rally car must, more than anything else, be both strong & quiet. It is VERY expensive to build a rally car of any type.

 

The noise regulations are strict, so a twin box centre-exit system is needed. 

The ride height needs to be raised slightly and the exhaust strengthened so that it can't break when it comes into contact with the ground.

For night events you need an up-rated alternator and a pair of proper big driving lights on a substantial mounting bracket.

A sump guard and oil cooler are an absolute must, as are competition brake pads (not EBC Green s**t).

Best wheel width is 4.5" with 165 section tyres.

Damping must be improved (SPAX, GAZ or similar).

Brake, fuel and battery lines must be run inside the car from back to front in accordance with the regulations.

A map light, navigator power sockets and navigation instrumentation is essential (e.g.:  Brantz trip meter, twin clocks, stopwatch).

For historics a big reversing light is allowed, but for modern events only the standard reversing light is permitted.

Either remove or only use narrow wheel arch extensions as they can easily get knocked off in competition. With the 4.5" wheels no arch extensions are needed.

Remove all the sound-deadening under the trim panels & carpets. It is surprising how much that all weighs.

 

By the way, rally Minis did not have roof racks whilst on competitive sections. The roof racks were only fitted to the 'works' cars when the regulations made them necessary and they were removed before the quick sections. Roof racks knock a lot off the top speed and increase fuel consumption, neither of which is a good idea for rallying.

 

My "rally mini" is made for tarmac events so it's very wide and is going to be very low to the ground and it has just a near standard 1275 (good enough for regularity rallies), I guess raising the ride height is for rallies on gravel roads...

 

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Edited by RedRallyMini, 25 November 2013 - 12:45 PM.


#25 the_r_sole

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Posted 25 November 2013 - 12:40 PM

depends how far you want to take it  -stripping out the interior and putting a cage/buckets in is going to increase the insurance and make it less comfortable for a daily... couple of belters from a rally a few years back

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#26 RedRallyMini

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Posted 25 November 2013 - 12:59 PM



A rally car must, more than anything else, be both strong & quiet. It is VERY expensive to build a rally car of any type.

 

The noise regulations are strict, so a twin box centre-exit system is needed. 

 

The noise regulations aren't that strict over here.... Turn up the volume and have a look at this:

 

 

Sorry for al the useless videos but I think you guys like them too ;D



#27 jpw1275

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Posted 25 November 2013 - 07:07 PM

Dam that Porsche is insane!!!!!! Nice vid

Cheers james

#28 RedRallyMini

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Posted 25 November 2013 - 07:19 PM

Dam that Porsche is insane!!!!!! Nice vid

Cheers james

 

It's ear-bleeding-loud and in dry weather, it can be as quick as a WRC rally car especially with a driver like Patrick Snijers.



#29 Cooperman

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Posted 25 November 2013 - 07:19 PM

Which Belgian event it that?

I always loved the Tour of Ypres and I did it in a 2.8 911 Carrera one year, 1975, with a guy named Jan Churchill. It was such a fantastic event and we were 5th and best Brit crew.

Fun in a Mini as well.



#30 RedRallyMini

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Posted 25 November 2013 - 07:29 PM

Which Belgian event it that?

I always loved the Tour of Ypres and I did it in a 2.8 911 Carrera one year, 1975, with a guy named Jan Churchill. It was such a fantastic event and we were 5th and best Brit crew.

Fun in a Mini as well.

 

It's the "Tour of Flanders" in Roeselare.

 

I think you mean the 24 hours of Ypres (now it's called: GEKO Ypres rally), thats a really big achievement, finnishing 5th in Ypres :o,  certainly for a foreign team, most of them end up in a ditch :P... In the 50 years of it's existance, the rally of Ypres has only been won 15 times by a non-Belgian team...and the first rally of Ypres, in 1965 was won by Jean-Pierre Vandermeersch with an Austin Cooper :D


Edited by RedRallyMini, 25 November 2013 - 07:37 PM.





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