910 replies to this topic

[jonny f]

You could fit a bleed nipple into the top hose as that looks like it would be the highest point.

 

 

 

 

Looking cool nice to see you are cracking on .
Is it just the photo and I am no expert but if your rad is lower than your thermo hosing you will need to fit a expansion bottle ....... (higher) ......or you will end up with a huge air lock problem
Sorry if I am wrong or if I am teaching grandma to suck eggs

 

 

 

Its all good, i've got a expansion tank on the bulkhead. Supplied by the No.4 heater feed. This runs back into the rad overflow (overflow is on the expansion now). This should help keep around No.4 a lot cooler to.

[jonny f]

Freaken loving this thing haha. Its pure car porn. Take me for a spin in it when you've finished it please :)

 

Should be done in a couple of months!

[mm man]

You could fit a bleed nipple into the top hose as that looks like it would be the highest point.

 
 

Looking cool nice to see you are cracking on .
Is it just the photo and I am no expert but if your rad is lower than your thermo hosing you will need to fit a expansion bottle ....... (higher) ......or you will end up with a huge air lock problem
Sorry if I am wrong or if I am teaching grandma to suck eggs

 
 
Its all good, i've got a expansion tank on the bulkhead. Supplied by the No.4 heater feed. This runs back into the rad overflow (overflow is on the expansion now). This should help keep around No.4 a lot cooler to.

I knew there would be a plan! Sounds good to me
Where there's a minus owner there's always an alternative plan
As I say good work
Two months and counting ...........

[MrBounce]

That is one damn sexy plastic car!!

[jonny f]

Engine bay all done.

 

Pretty happy with it. Could do with some different leads.

 

Might have driven it to ;).

 

[Rocket.]

Love this !

[jonny f]

Thanks chap.

Passenger ones. May have to raise the ride height a little on spirited driving there is a fair amount of clearance though.

I do need to re-do the front drivers, did the passenger one a bit different and it looks a lot better where it wraps around.



Rear parcel shelf in, need to seal it.



Changed the inside lines to flexi ones, easier on the eyes. I've changed both rear cylinders for ones with bigger bleed nipples (stripped the thread on one of the old ones!). Also got the hydro working correctly now.

[jonny f]

Been doing the body this week. I am doing this on the cheap side of things with help from a painter...

Rubbed down the etch primer ready for high build.



High build on and guide coated.



flatted back ready for top coat.



Doors bonnet and boot have had the same treatment and a 2/3 coats of 2k. Also flatted and polished them. Not got a finished picture.



The body, flatted back on the roof, will do the rest tomorrow and give it a good polish.



Its a perfectly presentable finish but not show winning by any stretch.

My plan being that some of my repairs might crack and move so if (read when) that happens i'll probably paint it again.

[Baldspeed Racing]

fair play mate, hope the paint holds up but I guess its hard to tell with the FG shell. Looking forward to more pics as usual :)

[jonny f]

Bought it home today after a flatting and polishing.



Got both the doors built up.



Started fitting everything to it. Wired up the rear lights, but cocked it up somewhere! Think my CBS module could be wired up incorrectly/drawings wrong. Indicators all work correctly and the hazards but the fuse is blown and i've got no side lights!

[kel]

I'm in love

[Alburglar]

Started fitting everything to it. Wired up the rear lights, but cocked it up somewhere! Think my CBS module could be wired up incorrectly/drawings wrong. Indicators all work correctly and the hazards but the fuse is blown and i've got no side lights!

Maybe, but don't neglect earths on a grp monocoque. I ended up with a thick gauge battery wire from front subframe to back subframe, one from battery to rear sub. A thick guage wire from rear sub to a terminal in boot, for all rear lights etc. Earth to front sub from engine (as normal), with a separate earth from front sub to a terminal behind the dash, using another big fat battery wire, for all the dash stuff to earth to, along with front lights etc.
Otherwise you'll be chasing electric gremlins endlessly. I had the horn only working when the indicators were on and all sorts of weird *******.

Edited by Alburglar, 27 June 2014 - 03:19 AM.

[jonny f]

Started fitting everything to it. Wired up the rear lights, but cocked it up somewhere! Think my CBS module could be wired up incorrectly/drawings wrong. Indicators all work correctly and the hazards but the fuse is blown and i've got no side lights!

Maybe, but don't neglect earths on a grp monocoque. I ended up with a thick gauge battery wire from front subframe to back subframe, one from battery to rear sub. A thick guage wire from rear sub to a terminal in boot, for all rear lights etc. Earth to front sub from engine (as normal), with a separate earth from front sub to a terminal behind the dash, using another big fat battery wire, for all the dash stuff to earth to, along with front lights etc.
Otherwise you'll be chasing electric gremlins endlessly. I had the horn only working when the indicators were on and all sorts of weird *******.

I've battery cabled from engine to subby at the front then to the cage and from cage to battery at the back. Only got thin gauge in the back for earths, maybe I'll go up a size, I'm fairly certain my earths are good! I'm supposed to be an electrician lol.

See if I can sort it today, fingers crossed

[jonny f]

Fixed it!

[jonny f]

Sorted out the rear lights, got the rear screen in and wired/fitted out the front end. Just need to tidy up the wiring a bit.