842 replies to this topic

[rally515]

Maybe getting it blasted in just the bad areas would be a good idea & the main areas that are ok ie outter body could be covered up to protect ?

EDIT: I seem to remember seeing that artful dodger covered up the numbered decals on his latest project maybe
he could shed some light on how to protect the main areas ?

Edited by rally515, 20 November 2012 - 02:57 PM.

[Artful Dodger]

i wouldnt trust the painter after that happening. i wouldnt get the little bit done just to find rust coming through on the bits you didnt blast. get the whole thing stripped / re painted. and that must be the cause of pourous paint, so enquire as to what paint it was hit with, etch, primer and top coat

[MiniLandy]

I wouldn't trust the painter after that happening.

Definitely.

That's really bloody awful for a freshly resprayed car.

[Deathrow]

I have to say guys that I don't think it's fair to hang the painter just yet. We've no idea what Luke's agreement was with him.

What did he agree to do Luke? Was it full prep and paint?

Where it's chipped off from the seam the paint beneath doesn't look like it's been keyed or anything.

[Artful Dodger]

I agree, could be a paint issue, i have seen paint wrong from the factory, just didn't adhere and split all the time

[TheBIGGERimage]

Classic bikes would be a good plan, we have a garage full of various 40/50's bike's and it never fails to keep us occupied. Also parts are only going up in price so your money will not be wasted and as for rust, there's not much tinware on them so that shouldn't be a problem.

Tell us what classics have you the pleasure of? Any photos

[mini-luke]

Looks like a combination of poor prep (you can see where it's chipped off existing, unkeyed, paint in one pic) and poor/non existant coverage in others. I'd be a very unhappy chappy in your circumstances, my £500 respray was in better condition after 6 months on the road

[camp freddy]

Hi Luke not looked at your thread for a while , coming along nicely, As for the rust problem is this another
shell supplied by S****y which was 'ready for paint' ....!! .Also as stated was all the prep work done before
being sent to paint ? if so sorry but the painter can't be held responsible for the problem to be fair unless
he was supposed to make ready for top coat.. If your home at the weekend i'll try and get over for a nosey..

Hang in there mate , sure something can be sorted..

[jaydee]

Ouch..to be honest it looks like a cheap paintwork, where the painter took care only on the visible areas like bonnet doors etc, where in the other areas just gave a quick paint without any kind of prep, it these areas it looks like it has been sprayed without even degreasing before...
Having some expert joining to view that can be great to find a proper cure for this shell.

[analogue_radio]

It's fault on both our behalves.. I clearly didn't treat the rust well enough before it went to paint, despite being as thorough as I could have been.

But that doesn't explain the missed areas, thin areas, chipped paint & flaking areas..

I'm hopefully going to ring him tomorrow.

[analogue_radio]

This is the work he carried out:

And a list of the work carried out -

Paint inside and outside of shell beige including boot and engine areas.

Paint roof white.

Replace 2x 'A' panels (due to doors catching)

Replacing 1x door skin (due to excessive distortion)

All filler work.

Sealer work to shell.

Paint all none shell panels supplied including harness rail, wheel arches and hinges.

Complete shell put in high build primer and 'prepped'.

Stoneguarding of sills, front & rear valances + finished in paint.

Waxoyled certain cavities.

I can't knock the replaced a-panels or door skin though.

[analogue_radio]

A follow up after speaking to George earlier on the phone.

It's clear the reason for the appearance of the rust is down to my novice skills.. To my knowledge at that time I thought I did a good enough job of clearing it all but you can't underestimate the severity of skipping corners & not doing things properly.

The reason for the flakey paint is because I hadn't applied the red oxide properly to the etch & bare metal, that's why in the photo of the bonnet lip you can see straight through to the bare metal where I had failed to prep properly and not to the red oxide where george had failed to prep properly.

I can't fault George. His experience & knowledge are second to non & the finish of the paint is fantastic.

(He's been spraying Classic Cars since the age of 16 & If I remember him saying correctly the first car he sprayed was a Classic Mini. He teaches bodywork at college, the cars he has sprayed have won awards for the paintwork & is quite clearly very experienced)

It's just a shame what he was applying it to wasn't up to scratch..

He's been fantastic with offering me tips & advice of what to do next & even offered to make the trip down to help me replace panels and correct these mistakes in the future if needs be.

Ultimately I am to blame for the state of the shell. I guess you can call it an expensive learning curve..

I can't begin to explain how defeated & heartbroken I am, not to mention naive & foolish.

Ta.

Edited by analogue_radio, 22 November 2012 - 07:07 PM.

[Midas Mk1]

I don't want to sound rude here, but don't blame yourself for the problems your facing.

Am I correct in thinking the shell was taken away with the red oxide showing?
Any 'quality' painter who is proud of their work, wants to do a quality job, therefore should check that all the prep is done to a good standard - especially if they are doing the final prep and filling.

I don't see how this can be blamed on you, any painter worth their salt would not apply topcoat to a shell that 'isnt ready for it', why would they want their work not to last, and be a half arsed effort? He's obviously seen the problems before he prepped it - why the hell would he just ignore it?

Looks like this guy just got lazy, slapped the primer and topcoat on. It's all well and good him saying he has show quality work /teaches - but why do **** work too?


Hope you get it sorted, don't give up on it now, a blast along an B road when it's done will remind you of this moment, and how you've overcome it.

Sorry if it sounds like a rant, but I think you've done a really good project thread, and it's a shame for you to to be messed around by a 'pro' like that.

[camp freddy]

From seeing the list of work to be carried out by the painter that you listed , IMO as Midas stated the painter
should have done the areas in question or at least contacted you regarding this . Also if he is renowned for
quality 'show standard' work why would he do substandard work on your car...you only get a good finish with
good prep work ...at least you could strip the engine bay and paint it without affecting the rest of the paint
work..

Don't loose heart Luke, Jame's lost heart with his but once all the crap had been sorted ( rear end repair )
his love had returned .........

Actually the same happened with me when Ratty got hit, now I've sorted out the damage and other llittle
issues with the body work I have renewed love for him , I've even been out 3 nights this week doing stuff.

Edited by camp freddy, 22 November 2012 - 10:23 PM.

[carboy001]

I don't want to sound rude here, but don't blame yourself for the problems your facing.

Am I correct in thinking the shell was taken away with the red oxide showing?
Any 'quality' painter who is proud of their work, wants to do a quality job, therefore should check that all the prep is done to a good standard - especially if they are doing the final prep and filling.

I don't see how this can be blamed on you, any painter worth their salt would not apply topcoat to a shell that 'isnt ready for it', why would they want their work not to last, and be a half arsed effort? He's obviously seen the problems before he prepped it - why the hell would he just ignore it?

Looks like this guy just got lazy, slapped the primer and topcoat on. It's all well and good him saying he has show quality work /teaches - but why do **** work too?


Hope you get it sorted, don't give up on it now, a blast along an B road when it's done will remind you of this moment, and how you've overcome it.

Sorry if it sounds like a rant, but I think you've done a really good project thread, and it's a shame for you to to be messed around by a 'pro' like that.

Ditto, he can't accept no responsibility if he's that good, he should have advised accordingly if he knew the shell wasn't up to scratch for the standard you were expecting. He just seems to have palmed you off mate to be frank, doesn't want more associated cost etc.

Hope you get it sorted anyways Luke, chin up