Edited by samsfern, 22 November 2010 - 08:58 PM.
7 Port Head - Engine Spec?
#16
Posted 22 November 2010 - 08:58 PM
#17
Posted 22 November 2010 - 09:10 PM
spi block is fine its the same as any other A+
The Lambda is not controlled if anything its the other way round, Lambda's send signals to the ecu.
I am guessing that the SC cylinder head and ecu kit doesnt use a lambda sensor? So the kit works with cars pre lambda, would i be correct?
#18
Posted 22 November 2010 - 09:10 PM
only difference with the spi block is the thread in the block for the oil transfer pipe, rover changed from the old type banjo bolt to some daft rubber olive fixing, which is prone to popping out, so id advise fitting the braided hose upgrade or even an oil cooler. ive had the oil transfer pipe pop out, resulting in trashed bottom end bearings, and a bill for clearing the contents of the sump that were squirted all over the road up, i now have the braided hose upgrade.
i did not know that, every days a school day!
#19
Posted 22 November 2010 - 09:14 PM
spi block is fine its the same as any other A+
The Lambda is not controlled if anything its the other way round, Lambda's send signals to the ecu.
I am guessing that the SC cylinder head and ecu kit doesnt use a lambda sensor? So the kit works with cars pre lambda, would i be correct?
i dont know much about the typhoon you will have to speak to JK about that, my current ecu does not have the input for lambda however i am changing to an omex 600 so may use this facility or may use an AEM gauge.
#20
Posted 22 November 2010 - 09:20 PM
http://www.specialis...hantPageDisplay
#21
Posted 19 August 2013 - 08:46 PM
Cam spec wise you don't want to go too conservative, the Calver RE13PP, circa 280° deg cam is an absolute road monster of a cam with my design of 7 port head - real torque from 2000rpm all the way to 7k (hence not requiring fancy bottom end components) in a side by side pull from 2000rpm with a race 5 port car would have this cammed 7 port would kill the 5 port stone dead all the way to the top end. If you want to go alittle more extreme we do a special grind for the 7 port cica 292° deg duration. This cam loses torque to the RE13PP at low rpm, still very very gutsy, but makes a run for the redline at 4000rpm (peak power circa 7400rpm - usable torque still at 8000rpm)- completely street tractacble, 4th gear at 1200rpm on a 3.44 diff and pull comfortably is no issue, 900rpm idle etc. Watch out for the rolling road figures for this one soon in Mini World mag shootout.
JK
Hello,
I'm planning to fit a MED 7 port head "trackday" version, in my Mini very soon. I currently run a SW5-07 on a 1380 with an Emerald ECU, and was planning to keep it, I use the car every day. Does a Calver RE13PP make a lot of difference ? Which issue of Mini World shows your rolling road figures?
Thanks
Diogo
#22
Posted 19 August 2013 - 09:51 PM
A straight copy and paste so apologies for the waffle!
Engine: 1380cc . Vickers-spec AKM ‘works-spec’ 7-port cast-iron cylinder head, built-in inlet manifold . Vickers- spec JE forged pistons, 10cc offset dish . JE Pro-Seal piston rings . Swiftune SW-10 CAM. Kent vernier timing gear . Vickers-spec JKD 1.5:1 roller rockers . 36mm inlet valves . 31mm exhaust valves . Vickers Miglia-spec springs, guides . DKE billet crank . Arrow billet A+ rods . ARP bolts . Vickers Miglia-spec steel main caps . twin Weber 38DCOE . Vickers throttle linkage . Vickers Miglia-spec engine breather system . Mini Spares HC water pump . Custom Aluminium Stub Stacks, Custom made ITG Air Filter. Radtec alloy radiator . Facet silver top fuel pump . Rover electric cooling fan, standard plastic mechanical fan . Mini Spares pre-pump glass filter . Aldon Yellow distributor . Aldon Ignitor electronic ignition kit in distributor . Aldon Flame Thrower non-ballast coil . 10mm NGK C8E spark plugs . 8mm Magnecor silicone leads . Vickers-spec Maniflow exhaust manifold . Thermotec exhaust wrap . Maniflow custom mild-steel link pipe . Mini Delta polished stainless steel system, rear side exit, twin-box . Thermotec exhaust blanket on centre silencer . HEL 7-row performance motorcycle oil cooler with aeroquip hoses and connectors . KAD rose-jointed top engine steady . engine wiring sleeved with plastic tubing. Gearbox: Original Jack Knight Developments 6-speed dog engagement manual gearbox . straight-cut 1:1 roller bearing drop gears . centre oil pick-up pipe . two rose-jointed KAD rear gearbox steadies . one uprated Rover forward gearbox steady . JKD steel driveshafts . Mini Spares orange diaphragm . ultralight steel flywheel . Jack Knight cross-pin 3.1:1 differential.
It even fit's under the bonnet.... just!
And with the customs stub stacks (cheers dad) and custom ITG air filter on it.
So to kind of answer Richieg or Southy you can fit 2x DCOE 40's under the bonnet, (well at least with the AKM / Minisport head you can).
#23
Posted 01 September 2013 - 11:53 AM
Cam spec wise you don't want to go too conservative, the Calver RE13PP, circa 280° deg cam is an absolute road monster of a cam with my design of 7 port head - real torque from 2000rpm all the way to 7k (hence not requiring fancy bottom end components) in a side by side pull from 2000rpm with a race 5 port car would have this cammed 7 port would kill the 5 port stone dead all the way to the top end. If you want to go alittle more extreme we do a special grind for the 7 port cica 292° deg duration. This cam loses torque to the RE13PP at low rpm, still very very gutsy, but makes a run for the redline at 4000rpm (peak power circa 7400rpm - usable torque still at 8000rpm)- completely street tractacble, 4th gear at 1200rpm on a 3.44 diff and pull comfortably is no issue, 900rpm idle etc. Watch out for the rolling road figures for this one soon in Mini World mag shootout.
JK
Hello,
Does anyone know which Mini World issue is staring this setup ?
Thanks
Diogo
#24
Posted 07 September 2018 - 01:43 AM
#26
Posted 09 September 2018 - 08:26 PM
Im sure this goes well! My last mini was a 1380 with a worked 5 port head on a weber 45, and that went well. Why the bike carbs and not webers? I am sure they perform well, but they just don't seem to sit right in the engine bay. I like things to look like they were meant to be there, I believe you had to modify your bonnet too - this is something I want to avoid.
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