Edited by minimuk, 10 February 2013 - 04:47 AM.
My Poor Wee Mini Sky
#901
Posted 10 February 2013 - 04:46 AM
#902
Posted 10 February 2013 - 06:40 PM
by the way, I think there's an extensive thread recently about that motor mount, complete with a couple suggestions that are supposed to work.
#903
Posted 10 February 2013 - 10:59 PM
Looking great, when's the test fire??
Graham
#904
Posted 10 February 2013 - 11:57 PM
#905
Posted 11 February 2013 - 01:05 PM
#906
Posted 11 February 2013 - 04:17 PM
#907
Posted 14 February 2013 - 09:28 PM
I shouldn't really put this up - very boring.
Drive shafts in
Was going to fit exhaust but my sealing paste had set solid in the tube! Fitted the gear linkage and then had to take it back out as it needs a gearbox rod gaitor - sent off for it.
Than started to strip the alternator and couldn't budge one of the brushes cover bolts. These things wind you up. So went onto something silly.
So many little things to do.
Easing along, Hugh
#908
Posted 14 February 2013 - 11:13 PM
Can I ask a question do the drive shafts just pop in place? Is there anything that holds them there or just the hub assembly is enough to hold the inner part in place?
The only reason. Ask is because I was planning on putting mine back in over the weekend
Trac
#909
Posted 15 February 2013 - 08:58 AM
Thanks for your interest. As for the driveshafts
It depends how you removed the driveshafts. If you removed the pot joints - the wide round bits with the gaiters over them - in my photo - you would have had to drive them out by getting the edge of a chisel or a big screwdriver between them and the gearbox housing. They need a bit of a push and a wiggle to get over the splines - there is a circlip at the end of the splines that locks the pot joint in place. If you removed the gaiter and slid out the spider from the pot joint then it will slide in again easily. Nothing holds it in place. It has to have some back and fore movement as your suspension bounces up and down. I removed both. It makes it easy to put the engine back in with the drive shafts in place and not jacked up if the pot joints are off the shafts. But it does give you hours of fun lying on your back trying to get the pot joints in, then the spiders , and then get the gaiters on and the fastener in place!! Hope that helps.
Hugh
#910
Posted 15 February 2013 - 09:28 AM
#911
Posted 16 February 2013 - 01:19 AM
i thought it was just another case of it'll be strong enough for the mini, but you make a lot of sense when you say there needs to be a bit of travel to make up for the suspension movement
Good luck with the rest of your build Hugh your nearly there, all the hard works done now
Trac
Edited by tractor, 16 February 2013 - 01:27 AM.
#912
Posted 16 February 2013 - 05:10 PM
I'm just plastering away with little things
Connected fuel pump to fuel line
Fitted gear linkages and sealed exhaust to manifold - impossible to show
Cleaning up the clutch slave cylinder - I did this before 8 years ago! You'd hardly know
I was going to strip the alternator but can't budge one of the brush cover bolts. So tighten up what I took off and start to give it a clean up. It works anyway.
And etch the coil
Look at the ballast resistor - will clean up next week
And you wonder what's the point. The callipers were painted just about a year ago. Well rusty. You guys that really restore I wish you the best
Creeping along, Hugh
#913
Posted 16 February 2013 - 06:06 PM
As for rust, looked under my covers yesterday, ooooo !!! Surface rust coming through the primer nicely, lot of work to do before paint, damn this wet country !!
#914
Posted 16 February 2013 - 06:33 PM
Keep it up Darren
#915
Posted 16 February 2013 - 06:44 PM
Trac
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