1146 replies to this topic

[hughJ]

Chris - thanks for your reply and I'm glad you would do just the same as me! Later it can be repaired. The Moke will be smashing when its done and a bit of fun. Look forward to seeing it on the road.
Rosalind, thank you. Been called a lot of things in my time but never a hero!!

I shouldn't really post this but its to show I'm doing something even though a little. The pictures might be useful reference.

I've just stripped the passenger door.





There's all that gaffa tape I mentioned before



And the mess it leaves
But below cleaned off with a mixture of white spirit and cellulose thinners - takes ages.



Here's what's left of the window support/runner!



And get rid of the pin-stripes



After a bit of a rub down



Here's the rust on the lip of the skin at the bottom of the door I am just rust treating at present



And found this under some blisters in the paint just above where the pin-stripes were! One hole is right through.



A bit of Kurust







Boring but necessary.

Rusting along

Hugh

Edited by hughJ, 22 September 2012 - 07:02 PM.

[Shifty]

Make sure you get rid of all the pinstripe glue, that can cause paint reactions later on!!

[grahama]

Nice door Hugh,

Can I suggest opening up the skin return to have a clean out under where the rust showed. Not a big job, I did it on my boot lid to make sure it was derusted behind a similar patch. Just a thought !! Coming on at a fair pace not Hugh !!

Graham

[sonikk4]

Hugh as Graham has just mentioned there will be rust under the folded flange and more than likely along the whole edge.

I'm in the process of re skinning another door for Paul and all three mating flanges although looked good externally were totally crusty so have now replaced two of the three and working on the third,

[hughJ]

Graham did you get it bent back without causing damage to the other side. It should be reskinned, I know, but I can't face it. I've been watching what your up to Neil and it is so impressive. Maybe in a couple of years I'll work up the courage and do it on some nice summers day!! For now, it will be field engineering!

Hugh

Edited by hughJ, 08 October 2012 - 09:12 PM.

[grahama]

Hugh,

I just used a screwdricer, large flat blade to peel the edge up and then bent it back using adjustable plumbers pliers with a rag protecting the other side. No marks on the face if u take your time but it should make the repait a bit more solid.

Graham

[CLM]

Once you go digging into those rusty seams Hugh you will likely find a rusted door frame. Knowing where you are you may want to find rust free doors later. Make sure to save some paint for touch ups as paint formulations and color could change.

Chris

[minimuk]

Hugh, yr diggin deep there, ditto what Neil and Graham say, looking at the window/runner and worm above pinstrip, my guess the virus is hidden evrywhere even under paint, you probably know/guess what I would do,.....

[hughJ]

Thanks Graham, Chris and minimuk. I'm being a man of very weak character. I am really getting weary of working constantly on the Mini and things not going right. Those who start up on another like minimuk I take my hat off to you.

Fitted new window channels to driver's side window glass



And then made a desperate job of putting it back in. Look at the paint that's come off!! My poor skills - and the Hardhat paint should probably be called Softhat! I'm sick of messing up. It took ages - hindered by putting the left doors window rubber into the right hand door!!





And the left door filled, sanded and primed. And the disaster here - the Upol High Build Primer that is usually so good - this can comes out in lumps and spits. Horrible finish. Sanded back and put ordinary grey primer on top.



Here's the left doors glass



Cleaned and new channels fitted



And the inside of the left door - still to green paint the other side.



Moanin' along

Hugh

[CLM]

Hmm how long after you painted it did you assemble the door, many paints once they are dry to the touch are still soft, and have a recomended drying time of up to a week at times before they attain their full hardness.

Chris

[minimuk]

Hmm how long after you painted it did you assemble the door, many paints once they are dry to the touch are still soft, and have a recomended drying time of up to a week at times before they attain their full hardness.

Chris

Ditto,Hugh sometimes ou just have to let time do what it needs to do, and paint is one of those, paint and leave it and do other jobs till all is fully dried and get back to it, stay away from mini for a few days and get syked up again for it with a clear plan... I have left Evy for a few days as I need to get Muk ready for a Europe run end of the month, but am still planning in the background on Evy.....

[grahama]

Hugh,

nice to see you back on, annoying along by the look of the scrapes. Such a crap time when that happens, I have scrapes underneath I have to revisit when I get my lump on it's wheels. Overall the doors look good and with some careful masking it will be a quick repair to the paint. Progress is progress though Hugh, all will be forgotten soon when you are battling through the Highland snow in it !! Did you put new rubber in the runners at the bottom as mine asre cruddy ??

Graham

[hughJ]

Hello gents - thanks again for comments. I'm sure its over two weeks since the paint went on. Put it down to me! Graham there are new rubbers. I got the runners on ebay and they came with rubbers which is great. They are one of a Mini's easier jobs!!

Only one picture - getting the hinges ready. Thought it would be easier in black.



I'm on holiday and Anne's away so relishing my freedom I went off for a 26 mile cycle through Strath Rory. Tomorrow has a super forecast so it might be John O'Groats on the motor bike - the north coast anyway - John O'Groats is an utter dump. It used to be nice when I was young but they have allowed it to become an industrial estate full of units selling scented candles, little sewed up cloth bags full of dead scented leaves that women seem to like, hairy jumpers 'made in Scotland', and general tartan tack. Go to Dunnet Head instead and its further North! The Stacks at Duncasby is nice too. In fact go all around except John O'Groats!! Enough of my rant. Don't get me going on the effect of windfarms on our Highland scenery.

As can be seen I am doing anything to avoid Mini work.

Ducking and diving along
Hugh

[tractor]

Hugh, i've followed your thread here for a couple of months and i'm sorry to read your frustrations, please remember theres always a bigger picture, your thread was the inspiration i needed to pick myself up off my ass and finish my project thats been sat in the garage for 2 years, so a rough as it gets don't forget how far you've come, take two days out and clear your head.

so for a practicle fix, find the widest masking tape you have make sure it's wider than the upper door frame, work out where you want to mask off to bur don't mask it off as you usually would because it'll leave a hard line, if you rip off about 5-6 cm more than you need and fold the excess back on it's self creating a sort of ovel shape this'll give you a soft edge so when it's dry you can wet sand it a lot easyier and you won't see the join and nobody will ever know

i've tried to explain that best i can but let me know if you want me to try again

Trac

[grahama]

I have not been to JOG, but have seen one of my childhood holiday haunts destroyed over the years. Other end of the country but Newquay used to be a nice fishing village, great beaches but now it's a stag and hen doo mecca. Lots of problems and so dissapointed but that's progress of the non mini type. Plenty of great places down there instead but will leave Newquay to the revellers !!