120 replies to this topic

[1977 Loud_Mini]

Heres a link to the clutch plate: http://www.minisport...o_C-AHT598.html
It says can be used with an uprated orange one but preferabely a grey type. As i may have the grey type with the flywheel etc then would it make sense to use it or would i definately be better off using an orange diaphragm as i haven't had any experience with either clutch diaphragms.

[MRA]

One thing about a ceramic or paddle clutch is they can take a little (or a lot) of getting used to..... they can grab and can be quite severe in there operation, often being referred to as being "like a switch"

[1977 Loud_Mini]

Yeah i've heard that and it has been getting me a bit worried, i'm guessing it's because of less clutch travel as some paddle type clutches can be 2mm or something thicker than the other standard type clutch. I would however be inclined to give it a go as i did get the assembly for a fair bit under the price of that clutch and then if needs be i could possibly change the clutch for a more suitable one at a later date if i don't get on well.
Does it mean you can't slip the clutch then?

[MRA]

I would tend to go down the route of changing the plate to a conventional plate and an orange diaphragm...... if you think of what the info above means, you may well see the effects of increasing or decreasing the spring pressure and or coefficient of friction (stickiness) of the material can do to your system...

you may get similar results with a very heavy (grey) spring and a standard plate as you would with a lower duty spring (orange) and a ceramic plate..... that is to say once it is all engaged and moving, the overall characteristics will be very different.

[MRA]

it will slip just not that easy to slip, more inclined to grip.... can also be seriously damaging for gearboxes and other drivetrain items.....

on the other hand a ceramic clutch will NEVER suffer with a primary or rear crank seal failure... as they are impervious to oil

[mini93]

it will slip just not that easy to slip, more inclined to grip.... can also be seriously damaging for gearboxes and other drivetrain items.....

on the other hand a ceramic clutch will NEVER suffer with a primary or rear crank seal failure... as they are impervious to oil

do you mean all paddle clutches?

because mines deffinatly slipping and iv got a 190mm finger paddle clutch due to an oil seal issue

[samsfern]

Yeah i've heard that and it has been getting me a bit worried, i'm guessing it's because of less clutch travel as some paddle type clutches can be 2mm or something thicker than the other standard type clutch. I would however be inclined to give it a go as i did get the assembly for a fair bit under the price of that clutch and then if needs be i could possibly change the clutch for a more suitable one at a later date if i don't get on well.
Does it mean you can't slip the clutch then?

ive driven an mg midget with a clutch like that, it is either on or off, you cant slip it, youll just cook it up. that was a full out race car, i wouldnt like to run one of those clutchs on the road, wont last long and would be horrible.

Edited by samsfern, 08 November 2010 - 08:19 PM.

[1977 Loud_Mini]

That sounds like a good advantage about the oil not effecting it. I may change the clutch plate to an AP road/rally type one instead then and possibly sell the AP metallic one on. Will see how much money i have as i'm intending on getting the engine completed and in the car by mid December. MRA-Minis.co.uk I Pm'd you yesterday about some engine parts just wondering if you had a chance to have a look through it?

Evan.

Edited by 1977 Loud_Mini, 08 November 2010 - 08:23 PM.

[1977 Loud_Mini]

Yeah i've heard that and it has been getting me a bit worried, i'm guessing it's because of less clutch travel as some paddle type clutches can be 2mm or something thicker than the other standard type clutch. I would however be inclined to give it a go as i did get the assembly for a fair bit under the price of that clutch and then if needs be i could possibly change the clutch for a more suitable one at a later date if i don't get on well.
Does it mean you can't slip the clutch then?

ive driven an mg midget with a clutch like that, it is either on or off, you cant slip it, youll just cook it up. that was a full out race car, i wouldnt like to run one of those clutchs on the road, wont last long and would be horrible.

That doesn't sound good then, why won't it last long if you can't really slip it?

Edited by 1977 Loud_Mini, 08 November 2010 - 08:23 PM.

[samsfern]

Yeah i've heard that and it has been getting me a bit worried, i'm guessing it's because of less clutch travel as some paddle type clutches can be 2mm or something thicker than the other standard type clutch. I would however be inclined to give it a go as i did get the assembly for a fair bit under the price of that clutch and then if needs be i could possibly change the clutch for a more suitable one at a later date if i don't get on well.
Does it mean you can't slip the clutch then?

ive driven an mg midget with a clutch like that, it is either on or off, you cant slip it, youll just cook it up. that was a full out race car, i wouldnt like to run one of those clutchs on the road, wont last long and would be horrible.

That doesn't sound good then, why won't it last long if you can't really slip it?

we have to change the one in the midget every season, and it only does about 10 races.

[MRA]

They don't tend to wear out that quick, the cheaper varieties can break up, or at least they used to but still worked ok, I have had several on the road with orange and grey diaphragms, can be a handful in the wet as the wheels tend to wheel spin more and with a race cam you either bog down or wheel spin for ages........ unless you have a really low ratio diff.

I did answer your PM, I will PM you.

[1977 Loud_Mini]

They don't tend to wear out that quick, the cheaper varieties can break up, or at least they used to but still worked ok, I have had several on the road with orange and grey diaphragms, can be a handful in the wet as the wheels tend to wheel spin more and with a race cam you either bog down or wheel spin for ages........ unless you have a really low ratio diff.

I did answer your PM, I will PM you.

Ah right well i guess the combination of this clutch and a 296SP cam doesn't seem like a logical option then, if i don't ask for others opinions then i'll never know what they're like unless i give it a go so thanks for all the help everyone. Regarding the PM, it never came through so thanks for answering again.

[samsfern]

this is what ive been using in mine, seems fine.

http://www.minisport...o_C-AEG481.html

http://www.minisport...o_C-AHT596.html

[1977 Loud_Mini]

this is what ive been using in mine, seems fine.

http://www.minisport...o_C-AEG481.html

http://www.minisport...o_C-AHT596.html

Thanks for the links, will have to look into possibly changing the cutch setup. Does th setup your running feel ok when you engine comes on cam or isn't it fully run in yet?

[mini93]

the set up in mine, i have a billet flywheel and backplate and a helix 190mm a grey diaphragm (aswell as a sh engineering mechanicle kit) 3.77 diff. 286 cam.
i can still slip my clutch, i can drive in traffic but to to my mechanicle linkage changing the pivot point its a very heavy clutch and when i did london to brighton my knee swelled up.
saying that i can drive for normal about 1/2 hour or so without any problems in traffic