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How Do I Grind Down Weld Spots On Panels


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#1 JonnyAlpha

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Posted 31 October 2010 - 04:15 PM

OK;

We have managed to replace the A Panel on my mini and considering neither he or I have ever done one before it didn't turn out too bad. The "How to bend an A Panel" on this forum came in really handy.

We had to take away part of the Flitch Panel and the door post was pretty bad but in order to avoid removing the door post we trimmed up a new door post stiffener Assy R/H and butted it up to the existing one and welded it in place from the inside.

http://i53.tinypic.com/2hnqa2g.jpg

We spot welded the join on the inside of the wheel arch where the A Panel panel meets the Flitch Panel, probably should not have done this and now have lumps that show on the outside of the A Panel so now I need some advice on how to prepare this surface for painting.

Should I grind the spots down if so should I use, an angle grinder and with what attachment, or by hand, I don't want to go through the panel.

If you can see the pic i have linked to you can just make them out as grey spots, I could supply a close up picture if you need.

#2 Sam Walters

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Posted 31 October 2010 - 04:57 PM

Id tickle them back with a pin hammer. lightly flat them off with a flap wheel, and then skim of filler over the top.

Edited by Sam Walters, 31 October 2010 - 04:58 PM.


#3 Chris C

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Posted 31 October 2010 - 04:58 PM

Posted Image

Those things will become your best friend.

#4 daveeeeee

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Posted 31 October 2010 - 08:13 PM

When care is required I use a long christmas tree shaped burr, and grind across the weld, I find this easiest to get it nice and flat and avoid taking too much metal off of the panels.

#5 danrock101

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Posted 31 October 2010 - 08:18 PM

[imghttp://web.tradekorea.com/upload_file2/sell/20/S00007320/Radial_Flap_Disc.jpg[/img]

Those things will become your best friend.

if you use one of those things wear goggles, gloves and a box haha, you should anyway but most people don't

#6 sonikk4

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Posted 31 October 2010 - 08:23 PM

Id tickle them back with a pin hammer. lightly flat them off with a flap wheel, and then skim of filler over the top.


I would second this, as the metal is so thin it will go through very quickly so using the pin hammer and dolly will reduce the chance of this happening.

#7 Sam Walters

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Posted 31 October 2010 - 09:08 PM

Or even better, block it out with a bit of emory cloth.

#8 jkjaxor

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Posted 31 October 2010 - 09:59 PM

the main point here will be to knock as much metal as you can so its flat again or even indents,, that way when you do file it all back you wont end up with holes,
jack

#9 mk=john

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Posted 04 November 2010 - 07:37 PM

OK;

We have managed to replace the A Panel on my mini and considering neither he or I have ever done one before it didn't turn out too bad. The "How to bend an A Panel" on this forum came in really handy.

We had to take away part of the Flitch Panel and the door post was pretty bad but in order to avoid removing the door post we trimmed up a new door post stiffener Assy R/H and butted it up to the existing one and welded it in place from the inside.

http://i53.tinypic.com/2hnqa2g.jpg

We spot welded the join on the inside of the wheel arch where the A Panel panel meets the Flitch Panel, probably should not have done this and now have lumps that show on the outside of the A Panel so now I need some advice on how to prepare this surface for painting.

Should I grind the spots down if so should I use, an angle grinder and with what attachment, or by hand, I don't want to go through the panel.

If you can see the pic i have linked to you can just make them out as grey spots, I could supply a close up picture if you need.

Its best to grind back to smooth, but not at the expense of the strength of the weld. If your welds are good, they will fully penetrate so grinding wont be a problem. Lumps under the paint can be dirt and thus moisture traps which can be difficult to clean, leading to potential rust if left over a long period. So, to get your exposed welds as smooth as possible will help avoid this.

I used a Black and decker powerfile for most of my grinding, and it worked much better than an angle grinder and got into tight spaces. Also, it allows you to be much more gentle with grinding. An angle grinder will be far too abrasive and will remove loads of good metal. Got my powefile from B&Q. (I did a full restoration with it!)

Click here to see it.

Edited by mk=john, 04 November 2010 - 07:45 PM.


#10 daveeeeee

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Posted 04 November 2010 - 09:06 PM

you can get an air powered one of those, they're awesome but you'll find yourself paying a lot for replacement belts ^^

#11 clovus

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Posted 08 November 2010 - 09:11 AM

Thanks for the B &D powerfile idea. The were on sale at my local discount auto shop on the weekend. I can't wait to tackle those welds....

#12 mk=john

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Posted 08 November 2010 - 03:54 PM

Thanks for the B &D powerfile idea. The were on sale at my local discount auto shop on the weekend. I can't wait to tackle those welds....

Well, while the belts for the powerfile are expensive, you could try and use an angle grinder where the welds are easy to access and not take off surrounding metal, and the powefile for difficult to reach areas. Having both at hand makes the job easier.

You want the blue coloured belts for the powefile, which are for metal, perhaps course and medium grit.

#13 clovus

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Posted 14 November 2010 - 11:06 AM

I got to try out the powerfile today. What an awesome and easy way to grind down the welds. I found it much more user friendly then the angle grinder, and easier both on the hands and the ears (even with earmuffs). Well worth every penny.




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