486 replies to this topic

[PhilipGCaldwell]

was wondering what project to do this winter and I think an 850 Version of that !!!

i think that sounds like a plan, wonder what bhp it will kick out?

[miniman92]

miniman92, cracking spec chap, you must be expecting 70bhp+ at fly?

Will find out when i take it for a rolling road at minisport after christmas, it was making 67bhp with a metro cam in it before hand and a crappy exhaust/inlet manifold. Im going to find my self a nice set of twin hs2's in the mean time and probably invest in a 123 dizzy. It embaresses any stage one 1275's past 3.5k thats for sure Keep up the good work

[miniman92]

Only thing I would say about your build is to have a think about what exhaust to use. I know youve said you want to use a fletcher but they are a bit overkill, I have one and im just a bit concious it's zapping some of my low down torque, especially with the 2" downpipe. Fletchers do look and sound amazing though, but if I were to buy an exhaust in the future it would have to be an rc40 twin box system, kieth calver recons these are the best systems and are more than enough for any hot 998.

Edited by miniman92, 26 October 2010 - 09:28 AM.

[mk3 Cooper S]

Looks like a good build but I am a little confused by this thread.

Are you comparing a std 1275 to a tuned, machined, ported engine etc as a comparision of price?

Std cooper/MG lump is 71 bhp and £150 - £300

The machining, 295 or 940 head + work, cam, flywheel and build consumables will be much greater than that ??

[nomininolife]

I am using the twin box RC40 system on mine


Regards

David

[miniman92]

Std cooper/MG lump is 71 bhp and £150 - £300

Youd struggle to find a metro engine in good nick for that sort of money. Low mileage metro engines dont tend to go for less than £500 on ebay, I watched one a couple of weeks ago go for £650. As for a 998, you can find a low mileage runner for £100

[mk3 Cooper S]

Std cooper/MG lump is 71 bhp and £150 - £300

Youd struggle to find a metro engine in good nick for that sort of money. Low mileage metro engines dont tend to go for less than £500 on ebay, I watched one a couple of weeks ago go for £650. As for a 998, you can find a low mileage runner for £100

You obviously aren't looking in the right places.

Ebay is not the place to buy an engine IMO

For example
http://www.theminifo...ct/15646/cat/18

[Carlzilla]

i payed 250 for my 1275 and all ancilleries, and saw it running in a car. When i got it for that much i just cant justify spending more than that on a 998 to get it to the same stage, as its always going to be restricted. Theres no substitute for CC's

Very nice little project though, something different

Edited by Carlzilla, 26 October 2010 - 11:54 AM.

[project mini chris]

a thing ive wanted to know for ages is..how do you pocket a block? like can it be done DIY or does a machine shop have to do it for you?
i have a 940b head that i could use but many people say that a 295 will be better for a 998 without pocketing the block...but where can you find a 295?
last thing..would a 202 head be suitable?

sorry to invade your thread buddy! Great build, I watching this with interest as this is a similar spec to what im planning on..

[frog998]

Just out of interest though how much is this little lot going to cost?
I currently run a 998 and always thought a 1275 would be a better option but having looked at the price of 1275 i understand why people look to mod the 998's.
But surely a rebuilt 1275 would work out cheaper than a modded 998.
As previously said i dont think you can beat CCs for price/power

[PhilipGCaldwell]

Im doing all this for fun and to teach myself more on the internals of an engine, and to be honest, i want to keep my mini 998 as its limited edition so dont want to go 1275

Just trying to show people that instead of ditching their 998s in favour of dropping a 1275 lump in they can do up their 998 and it turn out faster than a 1275. I know people will just say "dont know why your bothering, just stick in a 1275" but i think thats cheating! To buy a 1275 and have it rebuilt i think would be more expensive than building a fast 998, yes you can buy decent cheap 1275s but im afraid most people (i am guilty of this) will just look on ebay and they are at least 300-600 quid, put in the cost of rebuilding it and its alot of money, but compare that my 998 at £34 I can afford to throw some money at it and put on some trick components and it (hopefully) will be more than a match for a 1275.

thing ive wanted to know for ages is..how do you pocket a block? like can it be done DIY or does a machine shop have to do it for you?

What iam doing is marking the block with my exhaust valves and some builders blue and pocketing myself at work with a die grinder, DIY style, 12g295s are very expensive and they need skimming for CR

Im using a fletcher exhaust at the mo so sticking with it

The machining, 295 or 940 head + work, cam, flywheel and build consumables will be much greater than that ??

I have done all the porting of the head myself, and am doing the pocketing on the block, the only machining cost i have is getting it unleaded and balancing crank and flywheel

[Ferretboy221]

Very similar to my engine spec im halfway through:

11 stud A+ block 998 overbored +40 with inlet valve pockets cut in bores.
11 stud 940 head ported/polished
Balanced, crossdrilled and hardened crank. Balanced and lightened con rods.
New dished +40 pistons
kent 276 cam
3.8 kilo pre-verto flywheel

cost wise i had the advantage of picking up an ex hillclimb slark 998 which is what this engine is mostly made from parts wise.


I agree that unless you are fortunate parts wise like myself or prepared to do a lot of graft a hot 998 will cost more per HP than a 1275 based engine......but who cares? i personally fire up the scamp point it at a road and spend a couple of hours or more enjoying the noise of a 998 going through the gears constantly, and thats what its built for.

everyman to his own.....

[PhilipGCaldwell]

I agree that unless you are fortunate parts wise like myself or prepared to do a lot of graft a hot 998 will cost more per HP than a 1275 based engine

Admittedly yes, i probably am spending more on the engine rebuild than I would a 1275 but Im not bothered, doing this build is teaching me sooo much more than dropping a bigger lump in, its made me a better amateur mechanic and taught me how best to squeeze power out of an engine with regards to air flow etc. I was tempted with putting a 1275 in during my mini restoration but before i put it I was gonna have to source one then (for peace of mind) stripped the engine and put all new bearings and seals in aswell as valve guides, thrust washers gaskets, crank balanced etc etc, I just figured by the time Ive bought a 1275 and bought all the serviceable parts I may aswell keep it the original 998 and buy a mule 998 motor for buttons and modify it. Just my way of thinking

I think there is something much more satisfying getting more power from a 998 rather than going big bore, it fascinates me. On another note, i cant wait to race my first 1275

Ps - by the way i intend this build to fingers crossed be a match for a 1275 with stage 1 kit, but that will possibly fail miserably!!! Like it says in vizards bible, a similar spec 998 to mine is faster on a 1/4 mile than a metro turbo(but mine probably wont!)

Edited by PhilipGCaldwell, 26 October 2010 - 08:27 PM.

[1984mini25]

I’ll be keeping an eye on this seeing as I’ve just built an engine with all new rings, bearing etc for less than £500 and that includes buying all the engine bits and having the gearbox rebuilt.

My spec is a standard bore 998 block honed and pocketed, that was free after I sold the unwanted gearbox
Lightened and Balanced crank (also came with the block)
Standard 12g940 unleaded head; I have another spare that I might playround with at a later date.
Genuine Mg metro cam
Duplex timing gear
Electronic ignition
Hif38 (just because it’s easier to set up than twins) and K&N cone filter
And a full mainflow inlet and exhaust system

No idea of power as of yet (still needs to be run) as it’s just a basic engine for me to start from and fiddle with as and when.

One tip though, is when you come to put the pistons with the new rings back in, watch out that the rings don’t pop out of the compressor and into the ‘pocket’. Been there had it happen and it’s not fun having to order a new set of rings because of it.

Edited by 1984mini25, 26 October 2010 - 09:14 PM.

[PhilipGCaldwell]

One tip though, is when you come to put the pistons with the new rings back in, watch out that the rings don’t pop out of the compressor and into the ‘pocket’. Been there had it happen and it’s not fun having to order a new set of rings because of it.

Thanks for that, good tip, will keep it in mind when im re ringing the pistons,

with having the head converted to unleaded and buying unleaded exhaust valves this has increased the cost alot (£160 for the valve seats and recut inlets and £40 for new unleaded valves), if you are able to aquire an already unleaded 12g940 head then the only machining work would be crack and flywheel balancing (which is optional, cost £75), my machining cost is gonna be approx £230, if you take this cost out (unleaded conversion and balncing) then the rebuild is much cheaper.

If you can source a good MG metro (is it the 649?) cam like 1984mini25 has done then this is cheaper aswell than buying a brand new cam unit.