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Block - Cracked Block - Or Not


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#1 enterpryse

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Posted 02 October 2010 - 01:23 PM

My car blew its head gasket this week (got stuffed I think by the seller, cars only been with us 2 weeks) Anyway the cylinder head does seem to have a crack but can anyone tell from these photographs whether the block is too?

I don't want to comment what I think as it might affect the comments being made!!

The pics show the top of the block between Nos 1 and 2 cylinders. The pics are a bit large in size and have been exploded to make it easier to see.


http://picasaweb.goo...feat=directlink

Link above updated

Thanks in advance

Edited by enterpryse, 02 October 2010 - 04:06 PM.


#2 hunterg30

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Posted 02 October 2010 - 02:22 PM

looks like you will need to change engine, close up pick shows cracking,
if you just replace the gasket it would not last long

#3 enterpryse

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Posted 02 October 2010 - 04:08 PM

looks like you will need to change engine, close up pick shows cracking,
if you just replace the gasket it would not last long



Anyone got a block/engine for sale or can advise where to go to get this sorted?

Thanks

#4 me madjoe 90

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Posted 02 October 2010 - 04:12 PM

How deep is it can you tell you could get the block skimmed.

Just an idea probably easyer to get new block

#5 samsfern

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Posted 02 October 2010 - 04:14 PM

have you tried scraping the carbon off, polishing it up with a bit of 1200 grit and then looking?

#6 tommy13

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Posted 02 October 2010 - 04:55 PM

The damage has been caused by hot gasses being forced through a tight restriction (failed head gasket).
If you want a cost effective repair with least work, then virtually your only option is to have a mobile welding specialist call (or tow the car to him) and weld up the cracked area, then you can refinish it with hand tools. They usually dislike welding cast iron, but an experienced welder with the correct rods can do the job.
The alternatives all require removal of the engine with either replacement or expensive welding and machining of the original block plus all the work that involves.

#7 enterpryse

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Posted 02 October 2010 - 05:24 PM

How deep is it can you tell you could get the block skimmed.

Just an idea probably easyer to get new block


To be honest I really can't tell how deep, not very would be my immediate answer but I'm not an expert more an advanced DIYer. I don't mind removing the engine although Ive never done a mini before.

Yep I cleaned it up to how you see it now but wasn't sure enough to put the sand paper on it, still goes against the grain to do that :/

:(

Edited by enterpryse, 02 October 2010 - 05:29 PM.


#8 minidaves

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Posted 02 October 2010 - 05:32 PM

looks burnt to me, due to the headgasket failing then being run for a long period before being taken apart, replacment block time

#9 MiniLandy

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Posted 02 October 2010 - 06:04 PM

Take the studs out, plug up the oilways with grease, and with a sanding block and emery cloth (not sandpaper) rub down the whole block.

Remember to grease the cylinders too.

Then clean it up, put it all back together with a new headgasket, and see if it works. If not, it's only cost you the price of a headgasket, if it does, then you've saved a helluva lot.

Good luck, Paul.

#10 Boycie

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Posted 02 October 2010 - 06:07 PM

Clean it up properly with, say 600grit wet and dry and a lubricant. I use WD40 with the paper when cleaning up heads/ blocks and it works a treat.

To be honest, the 'crack' may just be in that carbon- cast iron is pretty resistant to hot gases!

#11 Cooperman

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Posted 02 October 2010 - 09:31 PM

It's very unusual for a standard bore block to crack, a 1380 more likely, but a 1275 very rare.
What I would do is this:
Try what Minilandy suggests, then, if that does not remove the apparent crack:
Bring no 4 piston to TDC and see how far down the bore the top of the piston is. If it is, say, 0.010" (which is typical) file about 0.007" locally where you think the crack is and clean up the filing with emory cloth. If that makes the crack disappear, remove the engine, take it to pieces and have 0.010" skimmed off the top of the block. If filing down does not eliminate the crack get a new standard bore block and have it bored to 1293 cc (that's +0.020") and fit a new set of 21253 pistons. you probably also need another head, but 12G940 castings are easy to find and cheap.
Sorry you've had this problem witb a car that's new to you, but all of us on here will help as best we can. I may have a standard-bore 1275 block for not a lot of money if it helps. PM me if you need one. I'm located near Cambridge just off the A14.

#12 Ethel

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Posted 02 October 2010 - 09:50 PM

Have you spoken to the seller? If it was advertised/sold as a runner you may have some comeback.

#13 enterpryse

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Posted 03 October 2010 - 06:09 AM

Have you spoken to the seller? If it was advertised/sold as a runner you may have some comeback.


No, to be honest I don't see the point. Bought as seen of course and they would argue that it had happened 2w after handover and my fault/problem. They don't know me from Adam so they could assume I thrashed it to death, I didn't of course.

Stuart

#14 enterpryse

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Posted 03 October 2010 - 06:15 AM

It's very unusual for a standard bore block to crack, a 1380 more likely, but a 1275 very rare.
What I would do is this:
Try what Minilandy suggests, then, if that does not remove the apparent crack:
Bring no 4 piston to TDC and see how far down the bore the top of the piston is. If it is, say, 0.010" (which is typical) file about 0.007" locally where you think the crack is and clean up the filing with emory cloth. If that makes the crack disappear, remove the engine, take it to pieces and have 0.010" skimmed off the top of the block. If filing down does not eliminate the crack get a new standard bore block and have it bored to 1293 cc (that's +0.020") and fit a new set of 21253 pistons. you probably also need another head, but 12G940 castings are easy to find and cheap.
Sorry you've had this problem witb a car that's new to you, but all of us on here will help as best we can. I may have a standard-bore 1275 block for not a lot of money if it helps. PM me if you need one. I'm located near Cambridge just off the A14.


Actually this is a 998 so the walls must be thicker I guess.


Look, one thing dawned on me over night............

The gasket looked blown in a large area bewteeen cylinders 2/3 and thats where I found the coolant. If the gasket had blown as indicated in the photos, between 1 and 2, then I would guess that there wouldn't be any coolant in any of the cyls and also that if there were any it would have been in cyls 1 and 2. This makes me think that the problem that took me off the road wasn't related to the origianl question.

Comments (apart from numpty please, later over a beer perhaps :) )

#15 mk3 Cooper S

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Posted 03 October 2010 - 06:30 AM

Check the depth with your finger nail to se how severe it feels. Clean it up with a bit of wet and dry paper.

I would personally refit the head with a new gasket as see how it goes. What have you got to lose?




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