42 replies to this topic

[1977 Loud_Mini]

Ok will check crank end float tomorrow (just read up on it so will attempt that) and check the bolts are all torqued up. I don't wan't to round off the conrod bolt heads so its definatley ok to use a normal socket on them?
Many thanks.

[liirge]

one thing concerns me, the marks on the conrods, in one of the pictures the conrod has 3 dots, and the end cap has 4, indicating it is the wrong one for that rod, they are a machined pair, and must be assembled as a matching pair.

[Shifty]

one thing concerns me, the marks on the conrods, in one of the pictures the conrod has 3 dots, and the end cap has 4, indicating it is the wrong one for that rod, they are a machined pair, and must be assembled as a matching pair.

I thought that as well!!

[danrock101]

probably one of the dots came off lol

[1977 Loud_Mini]

Thanks for the heads up guys, will check all the end caps tomorrow and swap over if necessary.

[Southy]

Was just about to comment on the cap's now I've woke up after some coffee.
Double check all the cap's are matched upto the correct rod, looks to me like the pistons have been took at sometime and put back in willy nilly as 3 and 4 are in the middle of the block.

[1977 Loud_Mini]

Was just about to comment on the cap's now I've woke up after some coffee.
Double check all the cap's are matched upto the correct rod, looks to me like the pistons have been took at sometime and put back in willy nilly as 3 and 4 are in the middle of the block.

I don't mean to sound stupid but how can you tell which pistons goes in which bore. I'm new to this part so any help is very much appreciated.

Evan.

Edited by 1977 Loud_Mini, 25 September 2010 - 09:32 PM.

[Southy]

When I stamp rods to remove them from a block or to have piston's fitted, I have the numbers facing the front of the block with No.1 being the radiator end.

One would imagine this chap might of done the same when tipexing the rod's. Ideally with the engine being run before, the same piston should be fitted back into the same bore unless re-ringing/honing the block is carried out.

[1977 Loud_Mini]

When I stamp rods to remove them from a block or to have piston's fitted, I have the numbers facing the front of the block with No.1 being the radiator end.

One would imagine this chap might of done the same when tipexing the rod's. Ideally with the engine being run before, the same piston should be fitted back into the same bore unless re-ringing/honing the block is carried out.

Well i'll check it out tomorrow and post on here along with some more pics. The bores look as if they haven't been run at all since the new rings were installed and honing marks are very visible.

[Southy]

If thats the case shouldn't be a problem then as they are, just get those cap's sorted out

[danrock101]

I'm trying to work out if the cap with 4 dots on actually has 3 dots but 1 of the dots has come off leaving 2 small remains lol Ideally they should of been stamped 1/1 2/2 3/3 /4/4

[Southy]

The remains are too far apart to be one dot originally.

I'd imagine if you got the block out with it at TDC and tried to rock the crank with your hands it would be rather stiff, or not even move, this would show that the cap's are wrong.

You can tell with a good eye on the side of a rod's thrust if the cap's are the correct ones.

[1977 Loud_Mini]

After i put some oil down the bores and rotated the crank a couple of times i could then move it by hand so is fairly easy to move. But if the rods etc are wrong, then it makes me wonder whether or not the piston rings are spaced correctly so maybe it would be easier and for peace of mind if i removed the pistons and checked everything.

[liirge]

You could be right there, as they say better to be safe than sorry!

[Prawn]

Sounds like a nice engine mate, although you'll need a fairly serious top end to work nicely with the 296 scatter cam,

You'll need a decent big valve head, ideally stage 3-4 at least, and some decent fuelling, like a 45DCOE or twin HS4's.

Without these, you'll have poor low end power due to the cam you've got, and poor top end power due to the head/fuelling.

Depending on budget it'd be nice to have the crank worked a tad whilst it's apart, wedging a crank greatly reduces the rotating mass. With such a revvy cam, it's almost a shame to mate it to a heavy standard bottom end.

I've got a 296 scatter in my 1380 currently, with 1.5:1 roller rockers and an MED roadcomp head, it makes 115 bhp and 100lbft, and ideally could do with a better head.

To drive, it's a great engine for a weekend car, although I wouldn't fancy using it every day, it needs to be above 3000rpm the entire time, below this it simply won't drive at all, and stutters badly. Slark said this was just the nature of the cam and webber conbination.

Over 3000rpm though, it's amazing, bags of power, with a great spread of torque, and it pulls solidly to 8000rpm, although I've limited mine at 7600 to keep it safe long term.

Get it built up with a decent box and you'll have a lovely engine