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Caster, Camber, Tracking Set Up


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#16 daveeeeee

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Posted 14 September 2010 - 08:34 PM

Oh i wasnt on about a pressure bleeder i was on about a 1 way bottle. Something like this http://www.tooled-up...eferrer=froogle

Just has a one way valve under the cap. Simply pop it onto the bleed nipple, loosen the nipple, jump in the car give it the pumps then go back to the tube check for bubbles etc. keep the resevoir topped up etc.

Idea is it wont let air back in so you don't have to close the nipple with a foot on the pedal.

Another benefit is you can stick one on each side and bleed it right through.


I've had a go with pressure bleeders before and they're a pain in the arse to set up etc.

#17 drummerian

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Posted 14 September 2010 - 08:38 PM

strange because i have read bad reviews about the one way valves and heard pressure bleeders to be really good....what to choose :-

#18 daveeeeee

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Posted 14 September 2010 - 08:43 PM

im sure proper pressure bleeders are good to use, but when you do it out of a tyre it's a pain in the arse. not that it doesnt work or anything.

i'd be interested to know what the complaints are because i've not got any! the first one i had didnt have a bottle, it was just the tube and the valve, only complaint about that one was trying to get it to go into a jar was a nightmare haha, soon cut a hole in the top of a bottle and stuffed it in, and bought a second one to bleed a full circuit.

i'm pretty sure when they use a pressure bleeder in a garage they let all the nipples off at once, that's the main benefit. you can't really do that with a home kit on your own any way.

#19 drummerian

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Posted 14 September 2010 - 08:50 PM

think i shall try the eezibleed one as i remember having a good experience with these in the past, i think the problem i had today when bleeding my brakes was that my assistant was pressing the pedal down quickly, have remembered now that slowly is key...

#20 drummerian

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Posted 14 September 2010 - 08:51 PM

and i am curious, when you say the whole system, surely it takes 2 trys since you have to bleed the front two and then the back two?

#21 daveeeeee

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Posted 14 September 2010 - 08:57 PM

Fair play =) Leaving your foot off the pedal for a second between pumps allows fresh fluid down into the master cyclinder, then you can pump down as fast as you like lol.

As it's split into two circuits, both front wheels together and both back wheels on the mini, I believe it to be best to do it in pairs (as you say two tries). As worst case scenario is you've got a bubble at the "T" piece in the circuit - which could jump from side to side. Hope that makes sense!

#22 drummerian

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Posted 14 September 2010 - 08:59 PM

ah good point, i can always do this fairly easily though using the eezibleed and making sure the fluid all runs through with no bubbles

#23 DaveVader

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Posted 14 September 2010 - 08:59 PM

book in with me and i will show you how i do it! :-


Yeah... if he can undo the lock nut on the track rod... ;D
This has reminded me that I need to go back! Didn't get a lock nut at Stanford, I'll drop you an email to save cluttering up the thread.

#24 daveeeeee

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Posted 14 September 2010 - 09:02 PM

Another pro for the bottles is no mess :-

#25 drummerian

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Posted 14 September 2010 - 09:16 PM

sooo, back to the main question and camber etc ideas?

#26 icklemini

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Posted 14 September 2010 - 09:27 PM

QUOTE (icklemini @ Sep 14 2010, 07:49 PM)
book in with me and i will show you how i do it!

would love to mate as i have read alot of your advice in my searches. Butttt you are far to far away from me


You aint that far away - 4 hours is the furthest peoples have travelled! :-


Yeah... if he can undo the lock nut on the track rod...
This has reminded me that I need to go back! Didn't get a lock nut at Stanford, I'll drop you an email to save cluttering up the thread.

That aint going anywhere without the noisy spanner on it! ;D

Want it raising off the bump stops too??

#27 drummerian

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Posted 14 September 2010 - 09:40 PM

haha little too far for my liking im afraid, anyone else have any suggestions?

#28 drummerian

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Posted 15 September 2010 - 12:29 PM

unfortunatly doris failed (on mostly minor issues like the tyres being on the wrong sides DOH!) but the more major issue was that the driver side brake is binding. This would defiantly explain the pulling to the right :thumbsup:

I have metro 4 pots. How can i fix this problem? The MOT guy said to take the calliper off spread the pistons back, chuck some oil on them and then make sure the calliper is centred on the disc. Any ideas on this problem?

Thanks as always!

#29 mini_mad69

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Posted 15 September 2010 - 08:44 PM

unfortunatly doris failed (on mostly minor issues like the tyres being on the wrong sides DOH!) but the more major issue was that the driver side brake is binding. This would defiantly explain the pulling to the right :P

I have metro 4 pots. How can i fix this problem? The MOT guy said to take the calliper off spread the pistons back, chuck some oil on them and then make sure the calliper is centred on the disc. Any ideas on this problem?

Thanks as always!



After just fitting the same metro conversion to mine. Mine is pulling left, so im going through the same checks. Where the calipers new? refurbed? or just second hand and hope their ok?

Take the caliper off, and gently push the pedal to push out the pistons. They should come out fairly smoothly and evenly. CHeck the pistons are in good condition, no pitting/rust etc. As the bloke said, give them a bit of oil.... well I would have thought brake fluid would be best not oil :huh:

Also make sure the pads are free to move along the pins and caliper body etc, mine had crusty bits on them that had to be cleaned off.


When you bled yours, did you bleed out of all of the nipples? or just the top ones? There was a little bit of gunky fluid that came out of one of the lower nipples from mine.

#30 apjmini

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Posted 16 September 2010 - 10:26 AM

Ian,

All the advice is good of course, in my experience cars pull in a certain direction under breaking:

1. the tracking is out (more of gentle pull I suppose if you have installed the steering correctly.
2. severe pulling under breaking - brake callipers.

So what is being suggested above is all good.

I will have the same issues with a totlally rebuilt front end and metro brakes (can't wait)

We have a suspension specialist in my town who wants £90 to set the mini up thats the way I will go, as castor, chamber angles are all changed on my beast.

Best of luck




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