12 replies to this topic

[woodsy483]

The thermo housing was off the A+ I'm fitting and is the two piece type made up of the top and a bottom piece-that I'm calling the sandwich plate, the question is, does the thermostat sit in the recess directly in the head-as in 1st pic (head is a stage 3 minisport and not original with A+) or should it sit in the recess in the housing sandwich plate-as in 3rd pic, if so where does the hose that will be fitted to the sanwich plate go to?

The engine that was in the car previously didnt have this 'sandwich plate' and so I dont have the hose for it or know where it should go.

Any help appreciated

[rwerry]

Picture 3 is correct.

[SolarB]

Woodsey, how are you mounting your VR sensor? I'm scratching my head while trying to think of a sensible way to mount mine.

[woodsy483]

Woodsey, how are you mounting your VR sensor? I'm scratching my head while trying to think of a sensible way to mount mine.

I bought everything as a kit, so it came with a bracket that is a long thin piece of metal similar length and shape to an ice cream stick that bolts on to the timing cover mounting bolts with another piece of metal attached. I will try an post a pic up later for you when home from work, probably easier than trying to describe it

[woodsy483]

Picture 3 is correct.

Thanks rweery,

I have found more info about it on the forum and read that having the thermostat sitting in the recess on top of the sanwich plate allows the water to still flow if thermostat fails.

I still have the question regarding the hose connection from the sanwich plate-where does it go to/come from, it cant be the radiator as thats the hose connection on the lid of the housing, is it the heater tap??

[[email protected]]

Silly question coming up...... why not use the standard mini thermostat housing? Keeps the plumbing simple

[woodsy483]

Silly question coming up...... why not use the standard mini thermostat housing? Keeps the plumbing simple

I have considered that but as its an A+ 1275 and came with this double housing I wanted to check if this sandwich plate and hose tap off are important to the A+ engine in some way.

I found the sanwich plate in question on your site Simon but it doesnt say where it connects to it is off metro's, turbo's & race engines.

http://www.minispare...=...3405&title=

The engine has been built to fast road spec, the last thing I want is to do is fit an engine in thats cost me over a grand to put together into the car with the incorrect housing/hose configuration only for it to overheat and knacker the engine.

[Ethel]

The housing and sandwich plate are off a Metro, so you can google up some piccies.

The sandwich plate provides a heater take off which also serves as a bypass if you put the thermostat between it and the bit the top hose fits.

You could use a Mini 'stat housing but you will need a bypass and most probably a heater take off.


From your piccies it looks like your water pump has a drilled bypass connection but the head hasn't - you want both with or both without. I'd also recommend scraping the paint off the gasket mating surfaces.

[Darkscamp]

The whole sandwich plate/thermostat housing is Metro spec. On a mini spec sandwich plate, the pipe points to the rear for the heater setup. I'd just go with the standard thermostat housing as your head looks like you have hole for a heater take-off at the other end of the head.

Oh and is that a bypass hose waterpump, because your head doesnt seem to have a bypass hose take-off from the pictures




edit: i need to learn to type faster than Ethel

Edited by Darkscamp, 03 September 2010 - 10:56 AM.

[Ethel]

you snooze, you lose Scamp

I think it's the mounting for the coil 'n not a heater take off you can see at the other end of the head.

The simplest solution would be to drill 'n tap the sandwich plate to convert it to take an angled 1/2 inch hose tail that you can arrange to plumb directly in to the Mini's heater circuit. you could still do with a heater control valve though:

My latest little "discovery"

[Darkscamp]

Just thought i could see one of the heater takeoff studs and the other was obscured by the long headstud for the coil. I swear i can see a hole in the head at that end, but then i did do 250mles in the Scamp last night

[woodsy483]

Just thought i could see one of the heater takeoff studs and the other was obscured by the long headstud for the coil. I swear i can see a hole in the head at that end, but then i did do 250mles in the Scamp last night

Scamps right, there is a hole for the heater take off!

Thanks for the advice Scamp & Ethel I think I know what I've got to do now,

Didnt get this bit though Ethel, especially the ebay clicky to a ford heater valve?

The simplest solution would be to drill 'n tap the sandwich plate to convert it to take an angled 1/2 inch hose tail that you can arrange to plumb directly in to the Mini's heater circuit. you could still do with a heater control valve though:

My latest little "discovery

[Ethel]

If you have got a Mini heater take off on the other end of the head just ignore it.

The sandwich plate hose connection faces backwards, as Scamp said, but Mini's have a radiator & fan to get in the way and older Minis use 1/2" bore heater hose. I was just suggesting you can solve both by adapting the pipe on the sandwich plate; it's easier to work on than the head if it's already bolted to the block.

The Ford valve was as much for interest, it has a built in bypass and would easily allow you to thermostatically control your heater for less than the cost of a new heater cable. It even offers a neat bulkhead fitting. They're also pennies from a scrappers.