
Rear Drum Brake Adjustment
#1
Posted 02 September 2010 - 09:57 AM
Thanks in advance
Jason
#2
Posted 02 September 2010 - 10:01 AM
Put adjuster spanner on the square adjuster.
Turn 90's till the tire goes tight (wiggle spanner as the adjuster has flats on it)
When wheel locks, work back till it goes round by hand.
Check if correct by pulling handbrake, should be no more than 3 clicks to full stop.
#3
Posted 02 September 2010 - 10:14 AM
Turn the adjuster till the wheel locks then back off one quarter turn, wheel will spin then but with a bit of friction.
If like mentioned the handbrake does still have more than 3 clicks on it, then cable needs adjusting or replacing
Its actually worth checking all the moving parts are moving before adjusting though.
The quadrants on the radius the cable runs through.
The "scissor" mechanism inside the drum have a habit of seizing.
Doesn't hurt to remove the drum and clean out the dust and also check for leaks on the cylinders and make sure cylinder pistons are free to move they can seize in there.
Edited by lrostoke, 02 September 2010 - 10:16 AM.
#4
Posted 02 September 2010 - 10:22 AM
I'm going to attack this later today. Is it best to put the rear on axel stands to do both rears at the same time and to check even friction? Or just jack one side at a time?
Thanks again guys!
#5
Posted 02 September 2010 - 10:44 AM
When was the last time they were adjusted??? (as your asking "how do I?", then I'm guessing that it's probably not that recent??)
Before you go anywhere near the adjuster, take the drum off and oil the adjuster mechanism from the inside with a penetrating oil or WD40 (but do keep any oil away from the pads/shoes). Then put the adjuster spanner on and slowly rock it back and forth, further and further, until it moves freely. Then put the drum back on and adjust as before.
If you go head first for the adjuster and it's seized (as they often are), you will probably shear it straight off and then be back here asking for advice on how to remove and rebuild the whole back plate and brake assembly!
....As you may have guessed I learned that one the hard way!!! DOH!! >

#6
Posted 02 September 2010 - 10:55 AM
WO THERE!!!! hold off a minute!!!
When was the last time they were adjusted??? (as your asking "how do I?", then I'm guessing that it's probably not that recent??)
Before you go anywhere near the adjuster, take the drum off and oil the adjuster mechanism from the inside with a penetrating oil or WD40 (but do keep any oil away from the pads/shoes). Then put the adjuster spanner on and slowly rock it back and forth, further and further, until it moves freely. Then put the drum back on and adjust as before.
If you go head first for the adjuster and it's seized (as they often are), you will probably shear it straight off and then be back here asking for advice on how to remove and rebuild the whole back plate and brake assembly!
....As you may have guessed I learned that one the hard way!!! DOH!! >
Right will do now! Cheers! Any other hints or tips?
#7
Posted 02 September 2010 - 10:55 AM
Thanks guys.
I'm going to attack this later today. Is it best to put the rear on axel stands to do both rears at the same time and to check even friction? Or just jack one side at a time?
Thanks again guys!
I tend to avoid taking more than one wheel off at a time if at all possible, as a car can fall still off axle stands! I always do one side at a time and have the car on axle stands with a trolley jack also still in place as a back up. This may seem like overkill to some, but a friend of mine had a beetle fall on top of him a few years back (and not the creepy crawly type either!!) so I have been a bit more cautious ever since!
#8
Posted 02 September 2010 - 11:04 AM
tension should be set to 3 clicks with a real good tug giving 4.
#9
Posted 02 September 2010 - 12:40 PM
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