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1960 Morris 850 And Friends
#136
Posted 06 January 2012 - 08:19 PM
Chris
#137
Posted 06 January 2012 - 08:49 PM
Hugh
#138
Posted 06 January 2012 - 09:08 PM
#139
Posted 06 January 2012 - 10:02 PM
You couldn't just 'kill' it off, your heart is in that wee car.
I have thought to sell it on several times when it was languishing away... my parents wouldn't allow that... so it kept languishing. Mind you these were the people who originally told me when I asked opinions that I should not get the car... but I guess that just means it's ok to change your mind! lol
Amazing project and a nice mini story. You've owned it a while!! And nothing beats a proper Mk1 Mini. :)
Or two or three. I'm still envious of people in your neck of the woods that can buy much nicer ones.. and parts for them so cheap! Car would have been done ages ago if that were the case!
Chris
#140
Posted 07 January 2012 - 02:44 AM
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The hideously annoying thing is after I get the rear part of that built, locating in the rear mounts and the tower mounts.... I have to make a jig on the front subby so I can use it to give this jig the propper, or as close to it as I can, front mounting position.... >SIGH<
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I offered up my bare rear subby to the wagon and it fit rather well, I even was able to bolt it on... in one corner... as the other corners are broken off/rotted away respectfully..
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Minis are so much FUN aren't they?
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Chris
#141
Posted 07 January 2012 - 06:34 PM
It had hydro rear subframe/trailing arms and s brakes!
#142
Posted 07 January 2012 - 07:16 PM
Just waiting on the floors at the moment
Chris
#143
Posted 07 January 2012 - 10:08 PM
#144
Posted 08 January 2012 - 07:35 AM
Well I'm beating myself against the wall making my next jig so I can have something to bolt up to my car that I know is square... unlike the front subframe I have that is bare.
The hideously annoying thing is after I get the rear part of that built, locating in the rear mounts and the tower mounts.... I have to make a jig on the front subby so I can use it to give this jig the propper, or as close to it as I can, front mounting position.... >SIGH<
Minis are so much FUN aren't they?
Chris
Oh Boy! More jigs!
I'm going to copy this one. I can use it to weld my bulkhead to my toeboard.
Keep going.
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john
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#145
Posted 08 January 2012 - 09:06 AM
Well I'm beating myself against the wall making my next jig so I can have something to bolt up to my car that I know is square... unlike the front subframe I have that is bare.
The hideously annoying thing is after I get the rear part of that built, locating in the rear mounts and the tower mounts.... I have to make a jig on the front subby so I can use it to give this jig the propper, or as close to it as I can, front mounting position.... >SIGH<
Minis are so much FUN aren't they?
Chris
Oh Boy! More jigs!
I'm going to copy this one. I can use it to weld my bulkhead to my toeboard.
Keep going.
john![]()
Well keep going I did, it did several revisions in my head and finally went with making a 1.25 inch long section mounted to the bar bolted in the subby holes, of which I used the absolute largest bolts that could fit in the shell just so it would be snug in the holes. And then cut the top triangle bars with an angle to intersect with the upright bars.
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Once I had the upper triangle figured out I needed to make the uprights.. but ran into an issue, the two longest pieces I had were not the same length or shape...
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So finding a small offcut, I welded all three pieces end to end, cut the angle flat then cut the remaining bar in half. It fit much better, the excess length will have a use some day, right now it's just excess.
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With those welded in I pondered the other two subframe mounts but decided if two line up the other two will line up by default, then I decided to triangulate them and made up some triangular bottoms.
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With it all situated acceptiably and welded up good enough, I pulled it off so I could test fit it, and, well, it fit.
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After that I pulled the floor out so I could clean up the seam that will need joined and so I can relocate the heater bracket back to where it is supposed to be, a previous owner had drilled the spotwelds and moved it to the left about a half inch, fine for RHD, but not so much for LHD, thankfully.... or worryingly he used self tapping screws instead of welding it on.
This jig is just because I don't have an acceptable subframe to line it up with, that internal bracing along with a decent subframe should get your toeboard on right however John And I will be pulling that internal toe bracing I did and don't think I will be reusing it if you want it when I am done I should be able to extend it up a little to tie into the pedal box mounts as well easy enough.
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Chris
#146
Posted 08 January 2012 - 09:10 AM
something else that was strange was it was never drilled for visors
Hmm, I haven't noticed that, granted that floor has most of my attention... so you likely could have attached hundred dollar bills to the inside of the roof and I wouldn't have noticed
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Chris
#147
Posted 08 January 2012 - 09:00 PM
This jig is just because I don't have an acceptable subframe to line it up with, that internal bracing along with a decent subframe should get your toeboard on right however John And I will be pulling that internal toe bracing I did and don't think I will be reusing it if you want it when I am done I should be able to extend it up a little to tie into the pedal box mounts as well easy enough.
Chris
I see what you mean. this one would work better.
Thanks.
john
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#148
Posted 08 January 2012 - 11:01 PM
something else that was strange was it was never drilled for visors
I just looked, it is drilled for visors in the same exact fashion my 1980 mk4 van is
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Chris
#149
Posted 09 January 2012 - 02:04 AM
#150
Posted 09 January 2012 - 02:24 AM
I wonder how much of a problem it will be later on to go from this later style to the pivoting middle type if I want something that doesn't just flip up and down..
Chris
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