14 replies to this topic

[robbo]

as title really? whats the best to remove and attack rust before pating? seen loads of different ones in halfords (krust, Genolite etc) what one is best?

[Danpolk]

I used Kurust at the bottom of my rear quarterlight last year when i made a small repair. It seemed to do the job fine and no rust showing through yet! I would use it again with no worries.

[Bungle]

angle grinder

[rwerry]

as title really? whats the best to remove and attack rust before pating? seen loads of different ones in halfords (krust, Genolite etc) what one is best?

http://www.neutrarus...nical-info.html

Gets some impressive reviews; but I haven't used it myself - Minis don't have a big rust problem here in Oz.

About 20GBP a litre.

[benallen]

as title really? whats the best to remove and attack rust before pating? seen loads of different ones in halfords (krust, Genolite etc) what one is best?

http://www.neutrarus...nical-info.html

Gets some impressive reviews; but I haven't used it myself - Minis don't have a big rust problem here in Oz.

About 20GBP a litre.

Lucky you!! Ive used th krust stuff which looks like milk n turns blue/black as it reacts with rust n it works really well, but now ive got th krust gel n havnt used it yet so not sure how good it is. Ben

[pikey7]

por15 is excellent stuff.

[bunch1980]

Im going to try FE-123 from www.rust.co.uk , to inject into cavites box sections and paint on underside of car sub frames etc. I wont repaint stuff but i guess
just apply this again once rust shows again lol

[AVV IT]

I've used "Jenolite" & Hammerites "Kurust", I'd say that both are good at doing what they do and that there is little to choose between them. I tend to use Jenolite though as you can paint over it in 1 hour whereas you have to leave Kurust for up to 3 hours as I remember.

[Team Loxley Racing]

angle grinder

Agreed.

[AVV IT]

angle grinder

Agreed.

I disagree, an angle grinder is the right tool in certain circumstances (i.e. to remove deep or structural corrosion) but if you attack superficial or surface rust with one, then you remove a certain amount of non corroded material as well & therefore unnecessarily thin the metal. Grinding also usually leaves you with a scored or pitted surface that you either have to "fill" (god forbid!!) or cut out and replace with new metal (which is rather unnecessary). Using an angle grinder on all corrosion can be like "using a sledge hammer to crack a nut". Also rust converter/killer is useful to treat areas that you HAVE attacked with an angle grinder as it protects them from further corrosion underneath the new paint.

That said it also needs to be used appropriately, brushing a rust converter onto a rotten panel that needs to be cut away and replaced is pointless and nothing but a waste of rather expensive rust converter.

[mike.]

Hydrate 80 from bilt hamber labs is really good. Used it loads before and it does a great job.

[l_jonez]

i used krust a few times and thought it was good untill i tipped some on my fibreglass front end and it still turned black


i know use por 15 metal ready (think thats what its called) seems to work rather well and it also etches clean metal ready for paint

[daniel190]

use a angle grinder

Edited by daniel190, 06 August 2010 - 06:29 PM.

[AVV IT]

use a angle grinder

I refer you to my previous response as above!!

[TimmyG]

Hydrate 80 from bilt hamber labs is really good. Used it loads before and it does a great job.

As above, used the removing gel and hydrate 80 on my vw van and it still perfect after a year with out even putting any paint on top! Good stuff. Their cavity wax is also good.