625 replies to this topic

[sonikk4]

Rich i just measured the rear bonnet gap on Paddy and its a consistent 6mm along the length. The bonnet at the front fits flush with the front of the wings.

[rich2]

Ah cool. Thanks for that! Hope you had a good L2B. I'll be there one of these years!

[sonikk4]

Ah cool. Thanks for that! Hope you had a good L2B. I'll be there one of these years!

 

Yes mate it was very good. Hated the queuing but had some really nice comments made about Paddy which made my day. Get you beast ready for next year mate. There is also the IMM in Kent the last day of july and the first two days of August. Hitting that as well before Paddy gets all of his new panels.

[AndyMiniMad.]

On mine the wing sits in front of the headlamp panel. And I fully sympathise with you when lining up the wings, mine are awfull, But as mine will be a track day car and will undoubtedly get bent quite often,  im not to bothered about the fit. Yours, as I said before, is brilliant.

[F1L8EY]

LOOKING GOOD

[okc78]

Hi, I've been looking at your build thread for a while, really impressive and inspirational. Your skills have improved massively since you started as well.

I've not heard of vinegar being used for rust removal, it seems to work though. Have you looked into citric acid 10% with water? That will get all the rust out, pretty cheap and probably a fraction of the time needed.

Thanks for taking the time to post your project updates, Ollie

[HarrysMini]

I've been watching your thread very closely as I'm about to embark on my own project which I can assure you is worse than this. The previous owner tried to deseam it and he just cut off the seam, so I've got to try and build a new seam for it. What's more, I have a deadline of a year.
Wish me luck :)
I really can't wait to see the end result of your restoration, it's very exciting.

[AndyMiniMad.]

Hello again!! Can I ask what  process you used when dipping your bits in vinegar? did you simply leave them for 10 days, or give it a stir every now and then? I'm trying the same trick on my hubs. There seems to be a sort of scum on the surface and I'm not sure if I should try and remove it or just leave it well alone!!

 

 

Cheers

 

Andy

[rich2]

Thanks for the comments everyone!

 

AndyMiniMad: yeah just leave it for a week or so. That photos looks about right. I don't think you need to stir or remove the foam or anything. You might need more vinegar though, if the surface area you are treating is quite large. After a week, wash the parts off with a hose pipe, or scrape off any stubborn bits with an old screwdriver. Its a bit of an imprecise science. :) At that point the metal will be completely bare, so get some paint on or it will rust again immediately.

 

The only other thing to bear in mind is its probably best to degrease the parts a bit before they go in, or any grease or oil will stop the vinegar getting to the metal.

[HarrysMini]

With regards to underbody protection, this is what I plan to do:

 

Liberal Red Oxide primer applied to the bare metal 

Stone chip over that

Top coat (2 coats preferably)

WaxOyl to waterproof the entire underside 

 

The same applies to arches.

It's also not a bad idea to pump WaxOyl anywhere you can, (between inner and outer sills springs to mind, although, it's probably too late for you) it's like giving your car a raincoat.

I would also use all Hammerite products as I know they're good quality.

 

Sorry if this has come too late and you've already sorted your underside.

[Minidarren83]

With regards to underbody protection, this is what I plan to do:
 
Liberal Red Oxide primer applied to the bare metal 
Stone chip over that
Top coat (2 coats preferably)
WaxOyl to waterproof the entire underside 
 
The same applies to arches.
It's also not a bad idea to pump WaxOyl anywhere you can, (between inner and outer sills springs to mind, although, it's probably too late for you) it's like giving your car a raincoat.
I would also use all Hammerite products as I know they're good quality.
 
Sorry if this has come too late and you've already sorted your underside.

I would avoid using hammerite products apart from waxoil as hammerite paints including the stonechip reacts with almost any other known paints including the red oxide that you plan to use plus the paints are not all that durable they are a little out dated really

[HarrysMini]

 

With regards to underbody protection, this is what I plan to do:
 
Liberal Red Oxide primer applied to the bare metal 
Stone chip over that
Top coat (2 coats preferably)
WaxOyl to waterproof the entire underside 
 
The same applies to arches.
It's also not a bad idea to pump WaxOyl anywhere you can, (between inner and outer sills springs to mind, although, it's probably too late for you) it's like giving your car a raincoat.
I would also use all Hammerite products as I know they're good quality.
 
Sorry if this has come too late and you've already sorted your underside.

I would avoid using hammerite products apart from waxoil as hammerite paints including the stonechip reacts with almost any other known paints including the red oxide that you plan to use plus the paints are not all that durable they are a little out dated really

 

Not trying to start an argument here but that's exactly what has been done on various Morris Minor full restorations we have done. Years later and they're absolutely fine. However, if you're not using all Hammerite products, I would be wary as they could react. All I know is Hammerite products are meant to be used together, and work very well together.

[rich2]

Thanks for the heads up harry. I'm using POR15 instead of hammerite as I have found it offers awesome protection - particularly where rust is concerned. As you suggest, I intend to protect the surfaces inside the sills with waxoyl or similar when the time comes. It isn't too late to do that as there are still openings (flutes for example) where I can squirt it in. I'm also still welding around those areas so I wouldn't want to burn it all out!

Looking forward to checking out your project!

[HarrysMini]

POR15 is excellent stuff. You should look into using POR15 with stone chip and WaxOyl as this would also give great protection, I can't comment on it's compatibility myself but I'm sure someone will know.

Definitely wait until you have finished all the welding before you get WaxOyl anywhere near it.

 

My project should be starting within a couple of weeks hopefully. Providing the shell I'm looking at is all good.

[Daviewonder]

I came rushing in here thinking it was an update