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#16 xBR4DLEY

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Posted 28 July 2010 - 10:48 PM

20w50
Pretty sure most people use semi-synthetic


So any 20/50W then cheers


Semi-synthetic should do , dont buy synthetic - its too thin for a mini as it shares the oil with the engine and sump.



No, most people say stick to basic mineral... stay away from synthetic OR semi-synthetic...



mineral oil is the only one that seems to stay in the engine (well sort of, lol), semi-synthetic and fully synthetic just leak out of every possible place


Ok sorry lads , pretty sure I was told semi-synthetic or maybe I'm just making it up LOL

#17 mk3cortina

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Posted 28 July 2010 - 10:51 PM

actually ive just looked at a can of the wikinsons oil, its mineral oil.

#18 redboy

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Posted 29 July 2010 - 07:36 AM

i use millers 20 50 classic mini oil. Designed for the combined engine and gearbox. I used 10 40 before that which i also think is fine but might wear a gear box a little quicker.
The only thing i have noticed is the gear change is quite notchy until it warms up then its fine and the engine runs a bit smoother.

#19 lrostoke

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Posted 29 July 2010 - 09:10 AM

20/50 mineral Halfords classic, £18 I think 5 litres which is great, did use Duckhams 20/50 before but the cans only 4.5 litres

Like mentioned above I do notice a bit of notchiness on very cold winter mornings till it warms up, considered something like a 15W50 for winter

No idea how good this is not tried it but seems to tick the right boxes

http://www.morrislub...iew.asp?sku=MUP

Multivis 15W/50 is recommended for use in petrol and diesel engines, including turbocharged versions. This grade is an ideal choice for well maintained, high mileage engines, where oil consumption is starting to increase.
Multivis 15W/50 has been used in motorsport (Eurocars, Minis, MGs, Austin Healeys) where it has provided impressive oil pressure and bearing protection under high load and high temperatures.
Multivis 15W/50 is also suitable for older engines (1950’s, 1960’s) that have been rebuilt and a full flow cartridge filter has been added.


Edited by lrostoke, 29 July 2010 - 09:11 AM.


#20 TimmyG

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Posted 29 July 2010 - 12:40 PM

So any 20/50W then cheers


Semi-synthetic should do , dont buy synthetic - its too thin for a mini as it shares the oil with the engine and sump.

Just because it is synthetic doesn't make it thin. A 20w 50 synthetic oil will be the same thickness (viscosity) as a mineral 20w 50. And synthetic oil is only bad for gearboxes if it does't have EP (extreme pressure) additives that gearboxes need. You can buy synthetic gear oil afterall....
Synthetic basically just means (given the same additives as a mineral) is that it will be more temperature stable. This means that you can have 5w 50 etc instead of 20w 50 which will benefit cold gear selection.
:-)

Edited by TimmyG, 19 September 2012 - 02:02 PM.


#21 the.stroker

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Posted 29 July 2010 - 01:16 PM

Have to agree halfords green 20/50 , and at £14 for 5 litres ( on the trade card ) is good value for money.

#22 adamg1380

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Posted 29 July 2010 - 03:33 PM

So any 20/50W then cheers


Semi-synthetic should do , dont buy synthetic - its too thin for a mini as it shares the oil with the engine and sump.

Just because it is synthetic doesn't make it thin. A 20w 50 synthetic oil will be the same thickness (viscosity) as a mineral 20w 50. And synthetic oil is only bad for gearboxes if it does't have EP (extreme pressure) additives that gearboxes need. You can buy synthetic gear oil afterall....
Synthetic basically just means (given the same additives as a mineral) is that it will be more temperature stable. This means that you can have 5w 50 etc instead of 20w 50 which will benefit cold gear selection.
20w50 is 70 when cold, 5w50 is 55 when cold. :)


I thought the point about synthetic is that it doesn't like being in the gearbox and gets broken down, it's not that the oils doesn't work for lubricating the gearbox, it's the effect running it in a gearbox has on the oil. I've heard that anything other than mineral is a no-no from enough people who know their stuff to believe it.

I use Millers as well, and that's what Minimaster always put in it. It's for track use but I used the same oil when it was on the road. It's pretty much mini-specific engine/gearbox oil. Living near enough to pick it up is a nice bonus.

#23 WiredbyWilson

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Posted 29 July 2010 - 03:53 PM

I would only ever use 20/50 mineral oil. The engine was designed to run on this so why argue with that.

The fact Rover updated the manuals to say 15/40 semi synthetc was ok in late coopers is to appear modern. Maybe this explains why mpi 'boxes are like toffee??

You pays your money and makes your choice - but think about it guys and girls :)

#24 Boothy

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Posted 29 July 2010 - 05:21 PM

Cheers Guys will get myself some millers 20W50

#25 Bungle

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Posted 29 July 2010 - 06:30 PM

i use the halfords classic 20w50

#26 danrock101

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Posted 29 July 2010 - 06:47 PM

I used halfords 20w50 but at the moment I'm using tesco 20w50 about £1.50 for 1L, since I started using it my gears have stopped crunching when I change down :S

#27 ShoutforJoy

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Posted 29 July 2010 - 07:00 PM

For automatics you must only use mineral oil. Synthetic or semi-synthetic can seriously affect the health of the auto box! Most people recommened 20w50 and seem to use the one from Halfords.

#28 Sprocket

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Posted 30 July 2010 - 10:06 PM

I thought the point about synthetic is that it doesn't like being in the gearbox and gets broken down, it's not that the oils doesn't work for lubricating the gearbox, it's the effect running it in a gearbox has on the oil. I've heard that anything other than mineral is a no-no from enough people who know their stuff to believe it.


Motorbikes with 'in sump' transmission and wet clutch use synthetic 20w50 oils quite happily. What other engines nearly resemble the transverse A series engine if its not an transmission in sump wet clutch motorbike engine?

The right synthetic oil is not the problem and will not affect the transmission, its the addatives or lack of them that are. If anything synthetics are better than minerals, as they do not degrade as fast with all the churning caused by the transmission itself

I will be using a 10w40 full synthetic motorbike oil as above in my new engine :)

#29 Ethel

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Posted 30 July 2010 - 11:25 PM

Rover will have done enough testing to avoid being buried in warranty claims before recommending any oil. The engine & gearbox barely changed (same grade materials and running clearances) but oil technology has steadily progressed.

I'd use a 20W50 in summer and think about something thinner for winter. We've had several good oil threads if you're after some extra reading.

#30 adamg1380

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Posted 01 August 2010 - 10:23 PM

I think I have a new favourite oil, and I havn't even tried it yet:

http://www.swiftune....ic-mini-5l.aspx

And it's semi-synthetic, so that shows how much i know. But, I do know what swiftune know, so I'll be getting hold of some of that stuff for my next but one oil changed (I've for 5L of Millers classic mini stuff already, which incidentally is now sold as "Classic mini oil": http://www.millersoi...me_CLASSIC.htm)




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