22 replies to this topic

[powermadcoop]

off the top of my head when warmed up about 25-30.......

Checked and it's now at 55 when warmed

[spritey]

I have the same issue low oil pressure on idle what oil would you recommend trying

[Mini Manannán]

Valvoline VR1 is us

 

I have the same issue low oil pressure on idle what oil would you recommend trying

 

Valvoline VR1 20/50 is fairly cheap, free delivery and used by a lot of us.

[Blatherskite]

I'm having a similar problem (998cc carb) oil pressure light comes on when engine is warm and on tick over but goes away at around 1500 rpm. The head gasket is being done next week along with an oil and filter change.
Also, but probably un-related, there is a small oil leak from the drive shaft oil seal. If I sort these things will it remedy the oil pressure problem?
I have already fitted a new pressure switch and release valve.
Cheers.

Have similar issue with our 1975 Series 3 landy. The oil pump is old & worn and needs replaced, but we find that a change of oil filter & oil means that the flabby old pump can still circulate oil at pressure enough that the pressure light is off at idle. Starts to be a problem again at about 9 months later. So - suggest you try the simple solution - fresh oil & filter, before getting more complex if that doesn't help much.

[spritey]

I've just changed the oil to 15/40 and it's fine until it's walm so a think I will try thicker oil Al look for that valvoline as mentioned above thank you

[racingbob]

Valvoline vr1 has definitely given me better oil pressure

over Castrol 20 50 and the others

[spritey]

I will try that if not it will be rebuild time soon

[whistler]

Back in the olden days 10w/40 or 15w/40 was meant to be used in the winter only as it aided starting in the cold weather. 20w/50 is for Summer. Oil change intervals were around 3 to 5000 miles so switching oil grades around the seasons was quite normal.

 

Would respectfully suggest that all Minis run on a quality 20w/50 mineral oil (not GTX) for all seasons, not semi or fully synthetic.

 

Flushing oil...........commonly know as cat's p.... It is not needed as all modern (for the last 40 years at least) oils have detergent additives to ensure a clean engine. If you want to 'clean' an engine between oil changes then use a cheap 20/50 or 10/40, run the car around the block until it's nice and hot then dump the oil, change the filter and use the good stuff.

 

I used to rally on the old Castrol XL which was considered about the best at that time. Don't know if the 'new' XL is the same spec.

Using Halfords 20w/50 on my rebuilt 1293 for running in, then I'll change to Millers or similar. Wish I could use Mobil Super 20w/50 mineral but don't think it's made now.

 

Regarding the oil pressure problem. A good option for not much money is to change the pressure relief valve and spring (just below the oil pressure switch) to a ball bearing type as the brass ones have been known to stick and also the springs weaken over time.