11 replies to this topic

[SMP]

Anybody got a link to a workshop manual or similar that states how tight to do the upper mount on the rear shockers?

Tried looking in haynes - can't find anything.

Cheers
Steve

[adam_93rio]

i just tighten them up, pretty much as tight as you get get them with a normal sized arm then theyre ok

[Dave33]

tighten them up so there is no movement,rubber slightly compressed,if you do them as tight as you can you will distort the rubbers.
Dave

[SMP]

I know that if you tighten them up too much the rubber compresses so much it's like having a solid mount. Years ago I had a cavalier with a similar set up and when the tops were too tight the shockers sort of rattled.

Was having a lot of trouble with noise from the back of the mini - have since found that it was lower mountings on the back of the drums not tight - but in the meantime I had backed the tops off a long way.

I thought there was a recommendation somewhere?

Cheers
Steve

[Dave33]

with the lower mounts tightened up and the top just hand tight,lower the car on to the ground if jacked up,then just nip the top nuts up til the seat just starts to compress the rubber,not much though,you will feel when it starts.
i cant remember on the standard shocks if they have a second nut as a lock nut like spax use,if not then use a nyloc nut or add a lock nut,there is no need to worry about torque settings or such,just nip it up with a good ring spanner(more feel than a ratchet).
hth
dave

[icklemini]

Tighten them so the rubbers start to squish.

[Big_Adam]

Ah, I got a trick for this.

Take a LONG length of rope/cable/something flexible and tie a bar to the end. Wrap it around the damper then turn the nut till the belt goes tight, then just tighten away.

I used an old seatbelt to get my ones off.

[blacktulip]

Ah, I got a trick for this.

Take a LONG length of rope/cable/something flexible and tie a bar to the end. Wrap it around the damper then turn the nut till the belt goes tight, then just tighten away.

I used an old seatbelt to get my ones off.

lol i think you have missed the question

[L400RAS]

Anybody got a link to a workshop manual or similar that states how tight to do the upper mount on the rear shockers?
Tried looking in haynes - can't find anything.
Cheers
Steve

Yes, Haynes do not state a torque figure, however this is from the Rover workshop manual

SUSPENSION
Wheel nuts:
Alloy wheels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Nm
Steel wheels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 Nm
Upper arm to front hub . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Nm
Lower arm to front hub . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 Nm
Front hub to drive shaft - nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 260 Nm
Front subframe turret bolts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 Nm
Front damper to body bracket - nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 Nm
Front damper to upper arm - nut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 Nm
Front subframe to body - nuts and bolts . . . . . . . . . . 25 Nm
Rear damper to body . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 Nm
Rear damper to suspension arm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 Nm

Edited by L400RAS, 28 August 2010 - 03:34 PM.

[Twitch211092]

Does anyone know the nylock nut size that secures the lower rear shock to the back of the drum? mine keep backing off leading to a knocking noise, planning to replace the bushes and nuts. cheers,

[Spider]

3/8" UNF (lower stud thread on the arm).

The upper Pin originally was 3/8" UNF. Some still use this size, but most have gone metric and will usually be M10 in either 1.5 or 1.25.

For anyone reading this thread in future, looking for information about how tight to do up the upper nut (or any shocker nut for that matter), there is no torque vale for these. They are done up, in the case up the upper rears, to the end of the thread. Below that is a plain shank that has the correct preload distance for the compression of the rubbers. For all others, they have a crush tube in the rubber, the nut (and large flange washer) are done up until they seat very firm on the tube.

[whistler]

3/8" UNF (lower stud thread on the arm).

The upper Pin originally was 3/8" UNF. Some still use this size, but most have gone metric and will usually be M10 in either 1.5 or 1.25.

For anyone reading this thread in future, looking for information about how tight to do up the upper nut (or any shocker nut for that matter), there is no torque vale for these. They are done up, in the case up the upper rears, to the end of the thread. Below that is a plain shank that has the correct preload distance for the compression of the rubbers. For all others, they have a crush tube in the rubber, the nut (and large flange washer) are done up until they seat very firm on the tube.

Just to add to Spider's comment, I lost one of the top nuts on a new pair of KYB shocks. It was a metric size but of an unusual pitch. Had to take the shocker to a local Fixings company to match the metric pitch.