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Steering Rack Play


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#1 Pooky

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Posted 26 June 2010 - 09:22 AM

I've found some play in the offside inner ball joint in my steering rack. This rack is a recon unit and has done less than 100 miles.

Posted Image

it has been causing nasty clonking over bumps etc for few days now. There is no play in the wheel grabbing it at 12 and 6. Grab it at 3 and 9 and you can see the operating arm move in and out of the rack by 1-2mm without the steering wheel moving. This is accompanied by a clonk. The near side has no such play and I'm sure the wheel bearings, cv joints and ball joints are fine as they too are relatively new.

As I have a flip front access to said balljoint isn't so bad. Is there anything I can do to take up the play? When I removed the gaitor there wasn't much grease in there, I don't imagine filling the boot with grease is going to do a lot...

Any ideas?

Thanks

#2 Ethel

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Posted 26 June 2010 - 09:48 AM

Who fitted the rack? You could take it back, though I can see it'd be preferable to fix it in situ. The ball joints can be serviced on the car, but you have to take the whole lot out if it's the pinion. See if there's any play between each end of the rack.

#3 Pooky

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Posted 26 June 2010 - 10:05 AM

It's a Minspares recon unit, it came withe the gaitors fitted so assumed they'd be adequately filled. I fitted the rack just before L2B. There only seems to be any play on this offside. There in no play before the steering wheel moves on the nearside.

How is the ball joint serviced? Haynes is not too helpful.

Thanks :thumbsup:

#4 Ethel

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Posted 26 June 2010 - 10:18 AM

It's much like a swivel hub ball joint. The track rod is held on by a threaded collar and there's a lock nut to keep it in place. The lock nut has a pin in the side of it to stop it unscrewing too.


http://www.somerford...x...=page&id=50 might give you a better idea - not sure you'll find the parts as a reconditioned rack is usually the preferred solution. You may be able to fettle it with some lapping & adjusting.

#5 Pooky

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Posted 26 June 2010 - 10:22 AM

This the type of balljoint I've got. It's different to my old one.

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Is it some sort of locknut inboard from the balljoint? This was loose. Is play taken up by screwing the balljoint further onto the rack?

#6 mini13

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Posted 26 June 2010 - 10:44 AM

!!!!!!

yes screwing that up will take the play out, the lock nut should be locked against the joint (as you thought) and then there are two pins or screws that engage into the rack to prevent the locknut and joint moving.

that was definatly on its way to coming adrift!!

I have taken to tacking mine with a blob of mig weld since experiencing similar,

also recon racks are often pants,

#7 Ethel

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Posted 26 June 2010 - 10:49 AM

There should be a groove on the inside with a pin to stop it unscrewing; it might be worth checking it's still there.

#8 Pooky

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Posted 26 June 2010 - 11:15 AM

Ahh can't see any pin. :thumbsup:

Haynes says 'drill a 3.97mm hole 8mm deep between the locking collar and ball housing. Drive in a new grooved pin and retain it by peening over the edge of the hole.'

I seem to be out of 3.97mm drill bits and grooved pins so will go for the welding option! Should I tack the locking collar to the rack or locking collar to the ball housing? Or both?

Thanks :)

#9 mini13

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Posted 26 June 2010 - 11:22 AM

I tack it in both places, just to be sure.

#10 Pooky

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Posted 26 June 2010 - 02:30 PM

All sorted, thanks for all the help! The clonking actually turned out to be the shock absorber anyway!

#11 MRA

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Posted 26 June 2010 - 06:22 PM

Joe,

Please makesure that the control arm has good easy free movement and is NOT too tight :(

#12 Pooky

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Posted 26 June 2010 - 06:46 PM

Yes, I did. I followed Haynes descriptions of tightening up, then backing off an eighth of a turn. Feels good :(

How are our wheel nuts coming on Martin?




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