
Blue Smoke On Acceleration
#1
Posted 24 June 2010 - 03:14 PM
I was having carb issues and changed the carb but after i changed it i started getting blue smoke when hitting the 2500rpm mark.
Like i said sensible driving for running in (keepin under 3000rpm - soft acceleration).
The carb is'nt fully tweaked yet?
Im really hoping this isnt the rings, what are other possibilitys?
#2
Posted 24 June 2010 - 03:15 PM
Not sure what it could be though , pretty vague explanation
Edited by xBR4DLEY, 24 June 2010 - 03:15 PM.
#3
Posted 24 June 2010 - 03:21 PM
Blue smoke is burning oil mate
Not sure what it could be though , pretty vague explanation
Cant really think what else to list. by saying carb isnt tweaked i mean i havent set the mixture properly.
I was thinking burning oil but surely new rings and sensible drivin for half a week...
plus like i said its only happened after ive switched carbs?
ive warmed the car up every day before driving and ran it on abit at stand still before switching off
#4
Posted 24 June 2010 - 03:23 PM
Blue smoke is burning oil mate
Not sure what it could be though , pretty vague explanation
Cant really think what else to list. by saying carb isnt tweaked i mean i havent set the mixture properly.
I was thinking burning oil but surely new rings and sensible drivin for half a week...
plus like i said its only happened after ive switched carbs?
ive warmed the car up every day before driving and ran it on abit at stand still before switching off
Could it be your dashpot oil is leaking or something?
Thats what my guess would be as its only since you changed carbs
#5
Posted 24 June 2010 - 03:28 PM
Blue smoke is burning oil mate
Not sure what it could be though , pretty vague explanation
Cant really think what else to list. by saying carb isnt tweaked i mean i havent set the mixture properly.
I was thinking burning oil but surely new rings and sensible drivin for half a week...
plus like i said its only happened after ive switched carbs?
ive warmed the car up every day before driving and ran it on abit at stand still before switching off
Could it be your dashpot oil is leaking or something?
Thats what my guess would be as its only since you changed carbs
Ill switch them tonight and see what happens, cheers for your input
#6
Posted 24 June 2010 - 03:30 PM
#7
Posted 24 June 2010 - 03:43 PM
what engine is it? sounds like rings or valves
its a new 1293 kit, the head is second hand though (apparently recon but if your sayin valves then im doubting that now)
#8
Posted 24 June 2010 - 04:14 PM
#9
Posted 24 June 2010 - 04:31 PM
If it was me, I would not be leaving it idling as you will glaze the bores, how many miles has it done since rebuild? if not that many I would be tempted to change tact on how your running it in, start taking it to higher revs every so often. Also when you changed carbs did you reconnect the engine breathers?
Id say 80-100 miles its only been on the road a week.
When you say taking it to higher revs every so often then how many is higher and how often is often.... 4000revs every 5 mins?
and no now you mention it ive left the breathers open... ill get onto that ASAP.
cheers
#10
Posted 24 June 2010 - 05:15 PM
#11
Posted 24 June 2010 - 05:18 PM
Well its not done anywhere near enough miles to be run in, I woudnt worry about it too much, but hooking the breather system might help quite a bit!
ah yeah i know that, a few more weeks of driving to go yet thats why when you said up the revs i was a bit tentative... or dyu still think its an idea?
#12
Posted 24 June 2010 - 05:35 PM
I
Run engine in using part throttle and low loads only, and keep rpm down to no more than 60% of rpm limit. Use the gearbox. DO NOT put engine under unnecessary loads (i.e. going up hills in top gear just using the throttle to maintain progress). Although the bulk of the engine requires little running in because of accurate building and tolerances employed, the more miles you can achieve the better the ring seal will be. 500 miles is enough. During running in, make sure the engine does not run hot, too lean or too rich. Both will cause premature piston/ring failure. Temperatures over 95 degrees C (203 degrees F) are unacceptable. If this occurs, re-set static ignition timing to 2 or 3 degrees BTDC, re-check carburettor/fuelling settings, and re-check cooling system capability.
This is NOT MY WORK! However is the method I use!
#13
Posted 24 June 2010 - 05:58 PM
dave
#14
Posted 24 June 2010 - 06:21 PM
#15
Posted 25 June 2010 - 09:50 AM
if it comes to taking the head off how will i check a) the valves and b) the pistons?
im asuming that there will be more play in the pistons then when i put them in for the rings to have gone, but what about valves??
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