11 replies to this topic

[cradley-heathen]

i just picked up a complete engine with everything on for 25 quid off ebay, i was planning to strip it down and sell most the bits off, but having started stripping it down i didnt realise that it was the same crank, so at which point im debating converting it for my own use.

i am aware that a spacer needs making for the oil pump, and there is some modification required to the block (oil filter housing take-off point, something to do with the oil pressure relief valve, and maybe some other bits)

does anyone have a guide? is it covered on here already? (i did look in the FAQ)

i have a good gearbox, tranfer gear casing, clutch casing (a.k.a the wok)

so i defianetly need tranfer gears, and clutch/flywheel assembly

any pictures advice usefull, and greatfully recieved!

[WiredbyWilson]

all of the oil ways are different so infact i don't think they blocks are the same. I think it can be done, but the machine work makes it uneconomical.

[cradley-heathen]

im not too concerned about taking on the machine work myself as i have tackled similar jobs in the past, i just need to know im covering everything that needs doing, especially as i dont have another block to compare it with sadly.

[bmcecosse]

It's really really not worth the hassle. Just pick up another block.

[Shifty]

It's really really not worth the hassle. Just pick up another block.

Stop it, you're just encouraging him with talk like this, the more difficult you say it is, the more he'll want to do it(am I right!!)

Also, a 1275??? What happened to smallbore? We need to talk!!

I'd imagine guessworks or MRA minis would be able to help you as I'm sure i've heard them talk about it before.

(what happened to you dude????)

[cradley-heathen]

It's really really not worth the hassle. Just pick up another block.

Stop it, you're just encouraging him with talk like this, the more difficult you say it is, the more he'll want to do it(am I right!!)

Also, a 1275??? What happened to smallbore? We need to talk!!

I'd imagine guessworks or MRA minis would be able to help you as I'm sure i've heard them talk about it before.

(what happened to you dude????)

i know, 1275 and 12" wheels? what have i done, i am hoping for a quick bolt together basically and throw it in,

im not against the idea of getting another block, but have you seen the price of them these days!

i was considering buying a complete metro for the lump and doing it that way, but the problem is everyone knows what a 1275 metro is worth now too (just for the engine)

for the sake of a little time i could have myself a cheap little motor here.

[bmcecosse]

It's not a 'little time' - it's a very complex modification. It's done in Aus land - because they have an accute shortage of 1275 manual blocks. There is an article about it somewhere on the net........ New parts have to be made up - and fitted to the block - and then the assembly has to be machined - and a relief valve seat fitted and machined. It's many hours of work - and even then - will it be right ??

[miniobsessed]

I'm from Aussie land and I say go for it Providing it is a pre MPI block (even then it's not impossible as I'm doing one myself but it's much more involved)...

Unless your block are different to ours the conversion is not difficult at all providing your handy with some basic hand tools and have half a brain. The most complex part is making the oil pump spacer which I would recommend out-sourcing to an engineer if you don't own a lathe...

Take some decent quality pictures from all angles of your block and post them up here We'll go from there...

[cradley-heathen]

I'm from Aussie land and I say go for it Providing it is a pre MPI block (even then it's not impossible as I'm doing one myself but it's much more involved)...

Unless your block are different to ours the conversion is not difficult at all providing your handy with some basic hand tools and have half a brain. The most complex part is making the oil pump spacer which I would recommend out-sourcing to an engineer if you don't own a lathe...

Take some decent quality pictures from all angles of your block and post them up here We'll go from there...

well you could say im pretty handy with the tools, i restore classic cars for a living, and previous to that a have a good few years engineering experience. im sure it cant be as hard as the 12 valve project i started a while back either (and th eonly reason i didnt finish that was financial problems)

I WILL GET SOME pictures UP ASAP

[cradley-heathen]

picture of the block (as far as i have got with it so far, im having a right game trying to get the flywheel off!)

i am aware of the oil filter housing position, but thats the least of my worries!

Edited by cradley-heathen, 01 June 2010 - 08:01 PM.

[miniobsessed]

Looks like it will be a little more tricky than the pre A+ blocks I've seen in the past... They've had a blanking plate over the flange the filter housing bolts to that you simply remove.

Basically to do the conversion you are going to have to...

Have a 5mm plate made up to fit in the oil pump hole. It needs to be a tight fit around the edge. Use an oil pump gasket as a guide to mark out the holes in this plate and drill them out - make the middle hole slightly bigger than the OD of the rear cam bearing. Find some 'spare' metal to drill through so you can retain this adaptor to the block with a couple of 1/4" countersunk fasteners. Use a sealer such as loctite 515 (flange sealer) between the plate and the block.

Remove the 'cotton reel' down the oil pressure relief hole. This can be achieved by tapping it out to 3/8" UNF and using a head stud and some washers/spacers to pull it out. This cotton reel is no good as it has holes in it. You can then either source a manual version or braze up the holes and tidy it up ready to be re-fitted.

With the 'cotton reel' removed you need to continue the drilling that would normally go to the oil pump. Normally there is enough depth of drilling present to use as a guide to continue the hole so you can do this with a hand drill. This needs to be 5/16" and you'll need a 'long series' bit. The hole needs to be drilled so that it meets up with the 'outlet' hole of the pump (with the tip of the drill bit touching the rear of the hole if that makes sense...).

You can then re-fit the cotton reel.

If you neglect the cotton reel you will be allowing unfiltered oil to enter your engine!

You are also going to have to have a play around to replicate the drillings of the oil filter flange which I couldn't see as being overly difficult. Easiest way will be to have a good look at a manual block (small bore will do as they are much the same) to see exactly what/where you have to drill. It will be essential to get the angle of the drilling to the oil gallery perfect though as if you hit thin air it's pretty much over... Drill and tap the holes to secure the oil filter housing using a housing as your template.

Then... Drill yourself a dip stick hole

Job done.

[cradley-heathen]

the main bits are no problem i dont think, just that oil filter housing to oil gallery drilling, i will have to investigate when i get it stripped down maybe this weekend.