19 replies to this topic

[CraigyBoy]

I'm after a pair of rear camber & toe brackets. Does anyone know where to get a pair of good quality ones?

I cant find any for sale anywhere. I'm sure I've seen rear camber and toe brackets before.......?

[Wil_h]

KAD are the best ones http://www.kad-uk.com/suspension.htm

The Mini Sapres ones are also ok, but never seem to fit. http://www.minispare...=...6392&title=

[bmcecosse]

It's very much better (and cheaper!) to just file the standard bracket. Job done in 30 mins per side - and no expense.

[miniobsessed]

It's very much better (and cheaper!) to just file the standard bracket. Job done in 30 mins per side - and no expense.

Good idea if you're doing this to take your car somewhere that can measure where your camber/tracking is before hand. This will give you an indication of where and how much metal you need to remove to set things right.

But for adjustability +1 for the KAD setup.

[bmcecosse]

Just measure and decide yourself - it's not difficult. Do it little by little if need be.

[miniobsessed]

For a road car (definately!) make sure you don't end up with toe-out at the rear. It will tend to make the car very 'nervous'... A bit like a 4WS system trying to turn you into a corner all the time.

[Burnard]

Im probably going to get in trouble for this but I asked this question in my topic that i started a few days ago (about 5th one down in minichat) and got vrey few replies.

I am also looking at getting the rear brackets, and narrowed it down to the 3 which are camber and toe adjustable.

KAD is too expensive, so out, unless they really are that much better than the others.

Mini sport: http://www.minisport..._MSLMS0510.html

Minispares: http://www.minispare...mp;tc=1#submenu

I cant work out which would be more reliable/ stronger.
Both the KAD an mini sport ones look basicly the same. but are only held in place by friction.
The minispares one has an adjusting bolt, and friction, but doesnt appear to be as good metal as the others.

Also, if im fitting these my self, then driving to the wheel alignment center, how the hell do i get there (40odd miles from me) without crashing due to bad setup? is there a basic, idiot proof setting which wont ruin the tyres, or kill me?

Edited by Burnard, 27 May 2010 - 04:37 PM.

[Hughes]

I have KAD ones being fitted by Slark in a weeks time. They said they would only recommend KAD one's for fit and strength.

[Boycie]

I've done it the 'bmcecosse' way in the past, with no problems at all!! Same your £40+ and spend some time filing the hole(s) to adjust the positioning of the arm. A really good fix is to also build up the gap in the subframe bracket with weld once your arm is positioned correctly.

It's worth noting that radius arms bend surprisingly easily, you can knock out rear alignment by just catching a kerb.. and non-genuine subframes are rarely spot-on alignment wise.

I'd love to get hold of the old Dunlop camber/caster tool- would make setting up the back really easy.

[Burnard]

They still sell it. http://89.206.185.11...d=view&s=camber
shame its like £400

[Boycie]

Yeah DT seems really expensive nowadays this Camber only one looks pretty good- £164

http://89.206.185.11...ge/1243/0/15783

[Burnard]

I think the cheap gunson, or sealy ones at the bottom would be good, just need a bit of straight steel bar to stick them too. so they sit on the rim nicely.


While were on the subject.

What are the best camber, castor and toe settings for the front and rear?

[scsracing]

If you are interested in the brackets from minisport,these ones

http://www.minisport..._MSLMS0510.html

Then I have a brand new set you can have for £35 posted(there £51 inc vat at minisport) as I have a spare set.All boxed and never used.

[CraigyBoy]

I want a pair of adjustable brackets because of the ease of adjusting them. I have not used any before but I'm sure adjustment is easier than drilling my current brackets especially if any changes need to be made in the future.

Burnard. I would suggest a method known as 'stringing' I will be using this method for toe settings to get me to the alignment centre. I used it on £100,000 Porsche Cup cars and works a treat. PM me if you want a description of how to use this method.
Regarding camber, a gauge is really the best way to go about it, either a gauge that takes camber off the wheel or off the wheel mating surface. The gauge that takes the reading off the wheel can be affected by scuffs on the wheel surface which is something that should be noted.

Have people got good reports for the KAD type?

Edited by CraigyBoy, 27 May 2010 - 08:53 PM.

[Burnard]

To me, drilling and welding the origional brakets seems like a waste of time, because things do, over time move. and this would need to be redone. not to mention the fact that it would take hours and hours of work, fitting and refitting the brackets to get them right.

After haveing a closer look at the minisport ones (thanks SCSracing) they dont apear to be all that different to the KAD ones (which i havent seen properly) So how can KAD justify being twice the price?