230 replies to this topic

[panelbeaterpeter]

wow what a job from the metal work to the paint, hope mine come out half as good and ill be happy, can i ask for some help on how you made the subframe mounting point ie. how thick the steel is, ruff size ,it looks like you used two plates if so did you shape both or just the top one as much info as you can may be some picture ? or a drawing if you can this would be so much help again great work please please help!!!!!!!!!simon

Cheers, I used two pieces of 1mm steel, plug welded together. Admittedly not ideal, but I didn't have any thicker gauge stuff lying about. I shaped both plates. I would buy a proper mounting point if I were you, they're not expensive and it saves alot of hassle! I only did it that was as I had limited time and money.

[sonikk4]

Mmmm that looks mighty pretty Peter, just one question what door skins did you use, heritage or another supplier??

Ta. Neil.

[panelbeaterpeter]

looks top!!

what made you go for special arches over the group 2's?

I kept cracking the group 2's, as they're fibreglass, also I didn't like the fact that they stop at the bumper seam, and the chrome trim rarely fits nicely.. they just annoyed me I like the fit of standard arches, and IMO they look good smoothed off and painted, nice and simple.

[panelbeaterpeter]

Brilliant skills mate. Sorry for the total beginners question, but i'm gonna be replacing my oversills soon... when you cut off old sills how do you get rid of the old lip that is spot welded to the doorstep? Do you just grind it all off?

Yeah I just ground it away with a grinding stone. It's a horrible job to do as you get covered in sparks and it takes ages, but it's the only way of doing it properly.

[panelbeaterpeter]

Mmmm that looks mighty pretty Peter, just one question what door skins did you use, heritage or another supplier??

Ta. Neil.

Hi Neil, I used a heritage skin this time on the N/S door, but a couple of years ago I fitted a non genuine skin to the drivers door, and you can really tell the difference! the fit's not as good and the swage profile is different.. but shhh I'm sure no-one will notice..

[sonikk4]

Mmmm that looks mighty pretty Peter, just one question what door skins did you use, heritage or another supplier??

Ta. Neil.

Hi Neil, I used a heritage skin this time on the N/S door, but a couple of years ago I fitted a non genuine skin to the drivers door, and you can really tell the difference! the fit's not as good and the swage profile is different.. but shhh I'm sure no-one will notice..

Cheers for that Peter. i fitted a non heritage skin to one of Erm's door and to be honest its a little bit poo so its time to go Heritage i think. Your little secret is safe with me

[sybloke]

wow what a job from the metal work to the paint, hope mine come out half as good and ill be happy, can i ask for some help on how you made the subframe mounting point ie. how thick the steel is, ruff size ,it looks like you used two plates if so did you shape both or just the top one as much info as you can may be some picture ? or a drawing if you can this would be so much help again great work please please help!!!!!!!!!simon

Cheers, I used two pieces of 1mm steel, plug welded together. Admittedly not ideal, but I didn't have any thicker gauge stuff lying about. I shaped both plates. I would buy a proper mounting point if I were you, they're not expensive and it saves alot of hassle! I only did it that was as I had limited time and money.

i have already repaired the heal section and i don't think any one makes just that plate ,i had a look unless you know any one ?all i have found is full heal or half heal or the corner repair section with the captive nuts which is not what i need, any help would be great again love the work....simon

[myredmini]

jelous

[analogue_radio]

Brilliant Pete, just brilliant!

[jack_marshall]

Is it nibbed and polished or are you avoiding the most boring part of paint?

[panelbeaterpeter]

wow what a job from the metal work to the paint, hope mine come out half as good and ill be happy, can i ask for some help on how you made the subframe mounting point ie. how thick the steel is, ruff size ,it looks like you used two plates if so did you shape both or just the top one as much info as you can may be some picture ? or a drawing if you can this would be so much help again great work please please help!!!!!!!!!simon

Cheers, I used two pieces of 1mm steel, plug welded together. Admittedly not ideal, but I didn't have any thicker gauge stuff lying about. I shaped both plates. I would buy a proper mounting point if I were you, they're not expensive and it saves alot of hassle! I only did it that was as I had limited time and money.

i have already repaired the heal section and i don't think any one makes just that plate ,i had a look unless you know any one ?all i have found is full heal or half heal or the corner repair section with the captive nuts which is not what i need, any help would be great again love the work....simon

yes mate, M-Machine make one. There is a short section of heelboard attached, but it's very easily removed.

[mighty mini jack]

Come on Pete.. Where's that Photo?

[panelbeaterpeter]

Cheers guys, and yes Jack it;s nibbed and polished, it's also all fitted up minus the front screen and the interior! currently waiting for a delivery from Retro Retrims, and I have a few brown interior bits to paint black with vinyl paint. I waxoyled it tonight and levelled off the hilo's, it was sitting at quite random angles. pictures soon

Edited by panelbeaterpeter, 26 April 2010 - 08:57 PM.

[panelbeaterpeter]

Come on Pete.. Where's that Photo?

Haha you had an exclusive there Jacky boy

[miniallsort]

top job