20 replies to this topic

[Ethel]

The pipe, with a male union, screws into the hose end. The hose end also has a male thread for a big nut that holds it to the subframe. Slacken the big nut so you can turn the hose to unscrew the pipe union by turning the hose, that reduces the risk of kinking the metal pipe.

[BronkoMini]

The pipe, with a male union, screws into the hose end. The hose end also has a male thread for a big nut that holds it to the subframe. Slacken the big nut so you can turn the hose to unscrew the pipe union by turning the hose, that reduces the risk of kinking the metal pipe.

Thanks for that, but it's frozen solid both the big nut and top of the pipe spin together and I have tried holding the nut and spinning the pipe but it will not budge I have a photo on my build thread , also the union is completely rounded of

[tiger99]

Firstly, please do not make either of the serious mistakes seen earlier in the thread, i.e. using copper pipes, or using metric spanners. The first is downright lethal, and you should always use cupro-nickel aka Cunifer, the second will add to your misery if any nuts become rounded off.

 

Now, as I understand it, the large nut will not shift on the end of the hose, which is spinning in its hole in the subframe. Have you got the (steel or Cunifer) rigid pipe unscrewed from the hose? If not, hold the hose end below the subframe with an open-end spanner, while you use a 7/16" open end on the tube nut. A metric spanner really will fail here, the size mismatch is too great.

 

If that doesn't work, as the hoses are scrap anyway, cut them off and use a socket or ring spanner from below. If the tube nut will not unscrew, cut the tube off, and get a new one made in Cunifer, or get a flaring tool, which you will need again, amd make one up yoiurself.

 

You are now stuck with, at worst, a stump of hose and unmovable locknut in the subframe hole. Dose it with PlusGas (make sure that you keep it well away from any openings into the hydraulic system, e,g. calipers, by fitting blanking plugs) and let it soak for a while.Try again....

 

If all the usual rusty nut and bolt procedures fail, you can either drill into and split the nut (no room for an angle grinder), or, with a "blacksmiths" drill (smaller shank than business end) and a very slow speed tool, drill right through the stump of the hose end, leaving basically nothing in the middle. Drilling will have to be from below and will be very tedious, as it is quite a large diameter.

[BronkoMini]

Firstly, please do not make either of the serious mistakes seen earlier in the thread, i.e. using copper pipes, or using metric spanners. The first is downright lethal, and you should always use cupro-nickel aka Cunifer, the second will add to your misery if any nuts become rounded off.
 
Now, as I understand it, the large nut will not shift on the end of the hose, which is spinning in its hole in the subframe. Have you got the (steel or Cunifer) rigid pipe unscrewed from the hose? If not, hold the hose end below the subframe with an open-end spanner, while you use a 7/16" open end on the tube nut. A metric spanner really will fail here, the size mismatch is too great.
 
If that doesn't work, as the hoses are scrap anyway, cut them off and use a socket or ring spanner from below. If the tube nut will not unscrew, cut the tube off, and get a new one made in Cunifer, or get a flaring tool, which you will need again, amd make one up yoiurself.
 
You are now stuck with, at worst, a stump of hose and unmovable locknut in the subframe hole. Dose it with PlusGas (make sure that you keep it well away from any openings into the hydraulic system, e,g. calipers, by fitting blanking plugs) and let it soak for a while.Try again....
 
If all the usual rusty nut and bolt procedures fail, you can either drill into and split the nut (no room for an angle grinder), or, with a "blacksmiths" drill (smaller shank than business end) and a very slow speed tool, drill right through the stump of the hose end, leaving basically nothing in the middle. Drilling will have to be from below and will be very tedious, as it is quite a large diameter.

Thanks I have cut it of, tomorrow I will try and undo the other end of the pipe, and I have a new section of pipe.

[BronkoMini]

Oh and I ended up using a dremmle to cut it of, thanks for the help, also what's wrong with copper pipes, as I have a feeling the one I got maybe copper

[kommander]

I've been using a 7/16 spanner, and it's rounding off the end on the piping!