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Canadian 1978 Mini 1000 - Long Resto


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#646 dasupersprint

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Posted 29 June 2020 - 05:45 PM

So meanwhile I continued to install the soundproofing

 

GCtxOow.jpg

 

 

UfnfvjB.jpg



#647 dasupersprint

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Posted 29 June 2020 - 05:46 PM

I also got a better starter motor, as the old one is really tired from all the cranking it did this spring.

 

XX08Dh6.jpg



#648 dasupersprint

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Posted 29 June 2020 - 05:49 PM

So the to-do list for now:

 

1. Finish the sound insulation.

2. Wait for parts order (clutch, fuel pump)

3. Install fuel pump, test it.

4. Change clutch

5. Fit new starter motor.

6. Test everything, find new problem?!1

 

Less important:

7. install quickshift

8. change fuel sender unit in the tank


Edited by dasupersprint, 29 June 2020 - 05:51 PM.


#649 Gilles1000

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Posted 29 June 2020 - 07:47 PM

What a shiny interior!!

 

For the starter motor, do you already have a pre-engaged starter in your Canadian version?

Or do you swap it from the inertia type?

 

Items 2, 5, 7 and 8 are pretty easy ;)

4 will be more interesting...



#650 Hpal

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Posted 29 June 2020 - 10:11 PM

Hi, I've just been through setting up my clutch in my 1098 and it needs to be set up properly to get the required clamping force from the spring so the clutch doesn't slip under power. Have a look over this as well https://www.minimani...FAQ__non_Verto_ for some good info. I had a flywheel and backing plate of unknown history so when I bolted it all together I noticed the drive straps weren't level and the diaphragm spring wasn't fully down flat. I put the setup in the mill (drill press would work) and put a dial indicator on it and pressed the centre of the clutch down till the spring was flat, then I chucked it in the lathe and took 0.057" off the horns of the backing plate. So when I bolted it all up again the spring was sitting flat (lots of pressure on the clutch drive plate) and the drive straps were level, all good. It's time consuming but needs to be done properly and can all be done on the bench once it's all out. You probably don't need a new diaphragm spring, just a new friction plate.

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#651 dasupersprint

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Posted 30 June 2020 - 01:35 PM

What a shiny interior!!

 

For the starter motor, do you already have a pre-engaged starter in your Canadian version?

Or do you swap it from the inertia type?

 

Items 2, 5, 7 and 8 are pretty easy ;)

4 will be more interesting...

 

I swap the starter, it seems like a common thing to do and I've been recommended this starter from the local club. I'll have look at this for the conversion:

 

https://www.moke.com...-gemini-starter

 

thanks for your feedback, as always!



#652 dasupersprint

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Posted 30 June 2020 - 01:37 PM

Hi, I've just been through setting up my clutch in my 1098 and it needs to be set up properly to get the required clamping force from the spring so the clutch doesn't slip under power. Have a look over this as well https://www.minimani...FAQ__non_Verto_ for some good info. I had a flywheel and backing plate of unknown history so when I bolted it all together I noticed the drive straps weren't level and the diaphragm spring wasn't fully down flat. I put the setup in the mill (drill press would work) and put a dial indicator on it and pressed the centre of the clutch down till the spring was flat, then I chucked it in the lathe and took 0.057" off the horns of the backing plate. So when I bolted it all up again the spring was sitting flat (lots of pressure on the clutch drive plate) and the drive straps were level, all good. It's time consuming but needs to be done properly and can all be done on the bench once it's all out. You probably don't need a new diaphragm spring, just a new friction plate.

 

 

Thanks! Looks like a job I could mess up, but I'll try to have help from somebody who done it before to be sure to do it right.



#653 dasupersprint

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Posted 30 June 2020 - 01:41 PM

So I can call the noise insulation done as I did the whole front of the cabin. I have spare material if I ever decide to do the inside of the doors or if I remove the fuel tanks someday.

 

I had to remove the center clock binnacle and the heater box to do a good job.

 

Ch1uPT2.jpg

 

E8RUzHY.jpg



#654 pete l

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Posted 30 June 2020 - 01:53 PM

Are you putting anything on top of the dynamat stuff ???



#655 dasupersprint

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Posted 30 June 2020 - 03:00 PM

Are you putting anything on top of the dynamat stuff ???

 

Well the carpets and the dash cards, yes



#656 dasupersprint

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Posted 30 June 2020 - 04:58 PM

Are you putting anything on top of the dynamat stuff ???

 

I know you recommended MLV but I'll see what it does with what I have before. And my to-do list is big enough for now!



#657 roughneckin

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Posted 02 July 2020 - 02:29 PM

With that full coverage soundproofing, my kids screaming inside it would probably sound like a non-stop echo chamber!

It looks great. Good luck with the clutch. Mine has been sitting for 15 years so might be doing it too.

#658 dasupersprint

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Posted 02 July 2020 - 05:28 PM

With that full coverage soundproofing, my kids screaming inside it would probably sound like a non-stop echo chamber!

It looks great. Good luck with the clutch. Mine has been sitting for 15 years so might be doing it too.

 

I found that if you stick a small piece on their mouths it quiets all the remaining sounds.



#659 dasupersprint

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Posted 02 July 2020 - 05:31 PM

Still waiting for my order, I did the less important things on my list. I fitted the KAD shifter. Was an easy job but you have to lift the car to remove the old pins from the shifter housing. I'm really impressed of it now feels, and can't wait to try it on the road.

 

TWADW4r.jpg



#660 dasupersprint

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Posted 02 July 2020 - 05:35 PM

I drained the fuel tanks, and fitted the new fuel sender. Was much easier to do than what I expected! Though of course if I said that, it will leak or something. I tested it outside of the tank and when I lifted the float, the needle went up on the dash! Yay.

 

AEK5VBg.jpg

 

uCh2Pfe.jpg


Edited by dasupersprint, 02 July 2020 - 06:02 PM.





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