9 replies to this topic

[chominsh]

hi there!
i know it will sound silly but i do't know what to do!!

so i swap my 988cc engine to mini metro turbo, but it has electric distributor! (i had mechanical before)

so i don't really know where all wires go!! can any one half with wiring picture?

Another thing is that i can understand if there coming out any + from my coil!
i put my finger into it to check so there was very very weak + coming out and not always, it it should be like that?

i tried to change coils, (i have 3 of them) and all results are the same
so i was wondering maybe my coil wirings are wrong! any picture?


any steps what i can check?
any picture with electric distributor, and all the rest wiring??
how to check is my coils are working?? (but they were before!)

i really don't know what to do now, i think i checked everything, but i am 100% there is something what i missed

[dklawson]

Others will have to tell you how to wire up/in the electronic ignition.

Regarding coils, they do not provide a continuous high voltage. They only produce high voltage when power is applied and then removed across the primary windings. Specifically, they won't produce a high voltage spike until you REMOVE power that has been applied across the low tension terminals. by the way, unless you like pain, do not stick your finger in the coil while testing it. That is a mistake you will only make once.

To test your coil, first determine what type you have (ballast vs. standard) by using a multimeter to check the resistance across the low tension terminals (all wires disconnected). If you find it's near 3 Ohms, you have a standard coil. If you find between 1-2 Ohms, you have a ballast coil... or some kind of special electronic ignition coil. (Again, others will have to inform you about the proper coil for the OEM electronic ignition).

Let's assume you have a standard coil. It gets a switched 12V supply, typically on a white wire from the ignition switch. Connect this white wire to the coil (+) terminal. Remove a spark plug (any plug) and its associated wire from the cylinder head and dizzy cap. Connect this spark plug the wire into the coil's high-tension terminal and rest the spark plug on a bare metal spot on the engine block or cylinder head. Connect a second wire to coil (-). Turn the ignition to the "run" position. Tap the other end of the wire you connected to coil (-) to an earthing point (TAP NOT HOLD). Each time you lift the wire off the earthing point, the coil should fire and you should see a spark at the spark plug.

Ballast coils are wired similarly for this test. However, they typically are fed by either a pink resistor wire OR somewhere in the white wire will be a ballast resistor rated for about 1.5 Ohms. The job of that resistor is to limit the current and drop the operating voltage of the coil. It's OK to test the coil without it but do not run a ballast coil without the resistor in series as it will allow the ignition components to overheat from excessive current.

[chominsh]

do someone have wiring picture, diagram?

i think i have wrong wiring to my coil!

is there 1 wire from ignition to coil (+)
then (+) and (-) goes from coil to electric distributor.
1 wire from body (-) to coil (-)

so it is 2 (+) and 2 (-) on coil?

how can i check if distributor works? can i just take cup off and look if its rotating?

i will check my coils tomorrow, but don't believe that all 3 gone at the same time?


if i plug spark plug into spark lead end (which goes from coil to distributor cup top) instead distributor cup, will it give spark?

[chominsh]

i've checked my coil and it is in working condition!

i just do not understand wiring fron electronic distributor!
can any one help!!!

i don't believe that noone have electronic distributor, can you post where to plug black negative wire and green positiv???????
diagramme???? picture??????

[chominsh]

i've checked my coil and it is in working condition!

i just do not understand wiring fron electronic distributor!
can any one help!!!

i don't believe that noone have electronic distributor, can you post where to plug black negative wire and green positiv???????
diagramme???? picture??????

where i can buy parts for electronic distributor???
i need that staff were two wires goes out

[Ethel]

Is the dizzy cap held on with screws or spring clips? What year is your Mini, do you know if it has ballasted ignition (white/pink & white/yellow wires on the coil)?

[chominsh]

Is the dizzy cap held on with screws or spring clips? What year is your Mini, do you know if it has ballasted ignition (white/pink & white/yellow wires on the coil)?

hi its held on screws, engine with all parts was from mini metro turbo, but not sure about year. My mini is 1990 and i had white/pink wire to coil and from that one was coming out other wire like you sad yellow /white, but i don't remember where it goes (white/yellow coming out of pink/white (+)coil)

now i have electronic distributor with green and black wire going out! but the module is cracked so i think it is toasted as well. i need to get new module and make sure that all wiring will be 100% correct otherwise i will toast it again ((((


any suggestions ???

[daemonchild]

Just a quick hijack I promise!

Will a non-ballast coil work on a ballast system and vice versa?
I presume that they will 'work' but will fail fairly shortly afterwards?

On my 1973 mini, I had the engine running fine in the garage, but the coil I was using seems to have died a death.
As the coil was one I was given by a friendly neighbour I have no idea whether it was the right one.
Anyway, now I have no spark.

Guesses anyone? Which coil will it be???!

(It's 225 miles away tonight, but will be back tomorrow so will go and do the multimeter tests on Wednesday morning, but was hoping to order one).

[dklawson]

Yes and no. The coils will sort-of work but don't use the wrong one. Here's the rub.

A ballast coil fitted to a standard loom will draw excessive current. This causes the ballast coil to run WAY too hot. It causes a premature death for the points, condenser, and coil.
A standard coil fitted to a ballast loom will work... to a degree. The coil will not get the right amount of current and voltage to deliver a strong spark. Your car may run but it's just as likely to suffer from bad misfires and running problems. OR not start at all.

Look at the wires in your car going to the coil. If the coil (+) terminal has "white" wires on it (solid white with no colors) that is an indication that you need a "standard" 3-Ohm coil. When you have your multimeter, disconnect any wires on the coil and measure the resistance across its low-tension terminals. You want a coil that measures close to 3-Ohms.

If your coil (+) terminal has two wires on it, one "pink" and one white/yellow, this is an indication that you have a ballast ignition system and require a ballast coil. As above, with the wires disconnected from the coil use your multimeter to measure across its low-tension terminals. You want a coil that measures between 1 Ohm and 2 Ohms.

[daemonchild]

Here's the rub.

Thanks again Mr Lawson sir!