36 replies to this topic

[Sleepy Stu]

just orderd the plastic one!, this is like the first thing i have ever done on my mini lol!, have i thrown myself in at the deep end?
lol thanks for the reply

Lol you couldnt just start with changing a windwscreen wiper?!

[luiji89]

tell a lie, i put my new seats in

[BJst416]

This is how i've done it (pre SPi and MPi):

First of all you should look at the haynes manual, it's all there.

An hour +/- plus some tea.

Okay, so get both bushings, upper.. and lower.. and some nice assembly grease.
(I'd suggest you also get a steering column drop bracket if you dont already have one, clicky... Makes your driving more uhmm comfy?)

Lift the carpet at firewall + some flooring.

Make sure your steering lock isnt in (leave the key in the barrel).

Make a note as to where the steering wheel is when the bottom clamp bolt is horizontal and above the steering column.
(look at the bottom of steering colomn while turning the steering wheel side to side, you will see what im talking about)

Undo the steering wheel nut, then hit steering wheel a couple of times to get it out (careful with your nose).

As a precaution, i always loosen the steering rack a bit. 4 nuts on firewall near the floor (pedals height). 1/2" i believe. 2 on drivers side + 2 on the other side.

Loosen the clamp on the bottom dash rail (or the drop column bracket if installed)

Remove the bolt and nut on clamp at bottom of steering column, 7/16" i believe on both sides. use a flat screwdriver to separate clamp a bit.

Pull on column upwards and slide out. remove old bushings, you'll see how they both fit.

Clean. reassemble. with grease. with care.

BIG NOTE HERE: there is a notch on the splindles that come from the steering rack. you must lign up with clamp when matting the splindles. This is so the bolt on the clamp acts a as pin as well.

Tighten upper clamp first (or drop bracket at desired height), then bottom clamp, then steering rack, then put back your steering wheel making sure you have fun remembering where the centering was.

You dont actually have to remove the steering wheel but it'll make it more comfortable for you.

If you get the drop bracket, the hardest part is removing the shear bolt on the original bracket, you got 3 options here:
- drill the head out
or
- some WD40, a small chisel (or alike) and hammer.
With chisel and hammer, just undo the bolt by hitting it (inclined and off-centered) on the head until it starts turning
or
- Angle grinder baby! (personal fav)

Cheers

Edited by BJst416, 22 February 2010 - 11:08 PM.

[WiredbyWilson]

Where in kent are you by the way?

[luiji89]

This is how i've done it (pre SPi and MPi):

First of all you should look at the haynes manual, it's all there.

An hour +/- plus some tea.

Okay, so get both bushings, upper.. and lower.. and some nice assembly grease.
(I'd suggest you also get a steering column drop bracket if you dont already have one, clicky... Makes your driving more uhmm comfy?)

Lift the carpet at firewall + some flooring.

Make sure your steering lock isnt in (leave the key in the barrel).

Make a note as to where the steering wheel is when the bottom clamp bolt is horizontal and above the steering column.
(look at the bottom of steering colomn while turning the steering wheel side to side, you will see what im talking about)

Undo the steering wheel nut, then hit steering wheel a couple of times to get it out (careful with your nose).

As a precaution, i always loosen the steering rack a bit. 4 nuts on firewall near the floor (pedals height). 1/2" i believe. 2 on drivers side + 2 on the other side.

Loosen the clamp on the bottom dash rail (or the drop column bracket if installed)

Remove the bolt and nut on clamp at bottom of steering column, 7/16" i believe on both sides. use a flat screwdriver to separate clamp a bit.

Pull on column upwards and slide out. remove old bushings, you'll see how they both fit.

Clean. reassemble. with grease. with care.

BIG NOTE HERE: there is a notch on the splindles that come from the steering rack. you must lign up with clamp when matting the splindles. This is so the bolt on the clamp acts a as pin as well.

Tighten upper clamp first (or drop bracket at desired height), then bottom clamp, then steering rack, then put back your steering wheel making sure you have fun remembering where the centering was.

You dont actually have to remove the steering wheel but it'll make it more comfortable for you.

If you get the drop bracket, the hardest part is removing the shear bolt on the original bracket, you got 2 options here: either drill the head out or some WD40, a small chisel (or alike) and hammer.
With chisel and hammer, just undo the bolt by hitting it (inclined and off-centered) on the head until it starts turning

Cheers

so helpful, will be doing this soon!! much appreciated!

[luiji89]

Where in kent are you by the way?

sevenoaks mate

[luiji89]

also just orderd the upper steering bush and the drop bracket too

[luiji89]

just a quick question guys, the bolt down near the pedals, is pointed at around 45 degrees to the right, when i refit the bolt and clamp thing does it need to go back on that position or can i move it round then move the steering wheel to suit?


thanks

[WiredbyWilson]

just a quick question guys, the bolt down near the pedals, is pointed at around 45 degrees to the right, when i refit the bolt and clamp thing does it need to go back on that position or can i move it round then move the steering wheel to suit?


thanks

It all needs to go back in the exact same position prior to taking it off.

Im in T Wells by the way

[BJst416]

The clamp and bolt will turn as you turn the steering wheel.
Must be refited at the same position it is when you take the steering column out.

Reason (please read big note above!):
The bolt on the clamp fits in a notch at the drive pin coming from the steering rack. This is so the bolt acts as locking pin from steering column to steering rack.

Just know that the splindles on both the clamp and the drive pin the comes from the sttering rack will line up no matter which way you put them back.
However, if you fail to line up the notch with the clamp:
a. I very much doubt the bolt will go back in to tighten the clamp.
b. If you manage to get the bolt in (without aligning it with the notch) and somewhat tighten the clamp again, the splindles on the clamp are not strong enough and you will damage them everytime you turn the wheel. I have seen this done and the car was left without steering (loose at the clamp) in less that an hour of city driving.


ANOTHER BIG NOTE HERE: I'm sure this is posted in the forum somewhere; If you fail to follow directions, or you just simply want to take dumb short cuts, then this job should be best left to an specialist.

I dont care if you do it wrong, however i do care for the other people that might come into the picture when your car is left without steering.

[luiji89]

tried to do this today, didnt realise how tough that shear bolt was!, going to have to try again tomorrow and possibly drill it out!, could anyone please tell me what set the steering rack bolts are, is it the set next to the rubber grommet and the same on the drivers side, or the set that are flat looking nearer the gear lever?
thanks all

[Sleepy Stu]

tried to do this today, didnt realise how tough that shear bolt was!, going to have to try again tomorrow and possibly drill it out!, could anyone please tell me what set the steering rack bolts are, is it the set next to the rubber grommet and the same on the drivers side, or the set that are flat looking nearer the gear lever?
thanks all

And the same two on the opposite side. You need to slacken these off when installing the drop bracket. Just dont forget to do them back up again at the end!

[luiji89]

thanks alot dude, thought it was that 1... just to be sure!

toby

[luiji89]

please help!, i magnaged to remove the columnand replace the bushes, but im having trouble getting the column back onto the pin...

i am lining the notch up with the clamp, but the bolt will not so through?

many thanks... sooner the reply the better!

[il-barba]

you don't need to push the column all the way down. you just need to insert it just at the right height so that the bolt passes through