18 replies to this topic

[DUF2]

No ballast resistor on tthe car, dead simple, 12v coil with electronic dizzy.

[cal844]

Ok, that simplifies matters, get hold of a multimeter to check the resistance of the coil as you need a 1 to 1.5 ohm resistance on an electronic coil. Ballast and points ignition are higher resistance.

I've also had brand new coils that were faulty and took us months to diagnose...

we'd fitted a clutch to the mini in my Avatar... car had plenty of power, would rev out in 1st, 2nd and 3rd, just wouldnt go anywhere in 4th... threw the parts canon at it, changed everything with no difference. Fitted a known working coil from a friends mini and that solved the issue.

As I say check the resistance of the low tension terminals then cross reference with the chart on the forum

Edited by cal844, 08 April 2020 - 08:11 PM.

[DUF2]

Ok, that simplifies matters, get hold of a multimeter to check the resistance of the coil as you need a 1 to 1.5 ohm resistance on an electronic coil. Ballast and points ignition are higher resistance.

I've also had brand new coils that were faulty and took us months to diagnose...

we'd fitted a clutch to the mini in my Avatar... car had plenty of power, would rev out in 1st, 2nd and 3rd, just wouldnt go anywhere in 4th... threw the parts canon at it, changed everything with no difference. Fitted a known working coil from a friends mini and that solved the issue.

As I say check the resistance of the low tension terminals then cross reference with the chart on the forum

According to the spec of the DLB 105 coil I have, the resistance is 3.0 ohms.

[cal844]

Some light reading, note that the DLB105 is superseded.

http://www.theminifo...tributor-types/


My personal opinion (from experience) is to use P/N GCL143 as it does work, I've got 3 minis and all have the 65D distributors, all of them run better than most other minis I've worked on.

We dont use timing lights or colour tune adjusters, my dad just disconnects the vac can, lift the idle to 2000 rpm and listen for pinking whilst adjusting slowly, revs should rise then sharply drop, we lock the dizzy initially at highest rpm point, then mark the dizzy body and engine. Refit the vacuum line and Adjust timing on road test if needed and always use a set route to test ?

Also remember when problem solving to make one change, if it doesn't work go back to base setting then go to the next change.

Long post and I apologise, I just thought I'd list our way to check timing and also fault finding.

Kind regards

Cal

Edited by cal844, 08 April 2020 - 09:54 PM.