
Lacquer On Cured Paint......is It Okay!
Started by
Big Guns
, Feb 12 2010 01:11 PM
8 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 12 February 2010 - 01:11 PM
Hi all. I'm just in the process of spraying my Clubby estate. Due to a HUGE change in my circumstances I decided not to go all belts and braces and instead have used rattle cans! I'mgetting a very good finish so far and think it'll look fine. Once finished with the paint I'll cut it back and get a shine. Now, here's the bit I'm not sure of.....once a good shine is achieved, is it okay to lacquer over it? Or should I have lacquered when the paint was still "soft"??
Thanks in advance.......Dave
Thanks in advance.......Dave
#2
Posted 12 February 2010 - 01:15 PM
If you're going to clear coat it, then the 'base coat' will need a key for the clear to stick to... in essence you are then doing a 2 pack spray clear over base, the clear provides the shine, the base the colour.
#3
Posted 12 February 2010 - 01:17 PM
No you need to let the paint cure before you lacquer. To get a lasting finish you need to flat the paint down until it looks matt all over, then lacquer it. The lacquer provides the shine and the flatting is nessessary for the lacquer to key to the paint properly.
Is the paint metallic or not? If it is lacquer is essential.
Is the paint metallic or not? If it is lacquer is essential.
#4
Posted 12 February 2010 - 01:24 PM
Hi. Thanks for your help. No, the paint is a flat Rover Electric Blue. I've achieved a good finish with only VERY minor overspray in parts. This will come off easily with T Cut, Meguars or similar cutting compounds. I was planning on flatting back with 2000 grade wet'n'dry anyway but thought I would have to get a good shine prior to spraying the lacquer. I take it this is not the case? Flat back to dull then lacquer??
Regards.......Dave
Regards.......Dave
#5
Posted 12 February 2010 - 02:30 PM
Unless you have runs that you want to get rid of dont use 2000 grit. use grey scotchbrite and water
Paul
Paul
Edited by Paul Wiginton, 12 February 2010 - 02:31 PM.
#6
Posted 12 February 2010 - 04:46 PM
this has been asked a few times and the answer that i give along with panelbeaterpete and jack marshall, both pro painters, is the base coat does not need flatting unless there is dirt/runs etc in the base.
all base coat paint should have the clear laquer applied when the paint is still a little bit tackey.
all base coat paint should have the clear laquer applied when the paint is still a little bit tackey.
#7
Posted 12 February 2010 - 06:49 PM
If you are using gloss it doesn't need a laquer.
If you are using basecoat (flat colours are also mixed in basecoat) then you need to laquer it.
Laquering over basecoat should happen within half an hour after your base has driedin my opinion, leave it too long like hours or days and you risk the laquer not adhering to the basecoat properly and could come away.
Also, as Midridge has just said, basecoat should not be touched before laquer. If you get any bits of dust or particles in your basecoat, you can wait till the last coat has dried and nib them out with 800-1200 paper but you need to re-base the area before laquer or it will show.
If you are using basecoat (flat colours are also mixed in basecoat) then you need to laquer it.
Laquering over basecoat should happen within half an hour after your base has driedin my opinion, leave it too long like hours or days and you risk the laquer not adhering to the basecoat properly and could come away.
Also, as Midridge has just said, basecoat should not be touched before laquer. If you get any bits of dust or particles in your basecoat, you can wait till the last coat has dried and nib them out with 800-1200 paper but you need to re-base the area before laquer or it will show.
#8
Posted 13 February 2010 - 01:30 AM
I'm just going off what its said on the rattle can instructions that i've used. Maybe its different when your spraying properly with a gun?
#9
Posted 13 February 2010 - 10:08 AM
Dont flat your paint (esp with 2000 paper, thats waaaay too smooth for the lacquer to hold on), the nice finish is accomplished with the lacquer. Unless you have bits of crud/runs in the paint in which case flat it off with 1200 paper and spray the area again.
If you are using rattle cans i would make sure the paint is fully cured before you lacquer. Those rattlers are 90% thinners in most cases so you need to be carefull about slapping on lacquer before all the thinners have evaporated out of the paint. You could very easily find yourself having to sand it all off and start again.
Once the paint is dry i would lacquer it within a 24 hour window and dont forget cold effects your finish. If you are planning to lacquer it from rattlers also, i hope you are rich mate, you are gonna need a sh*t load of cans to get a decent build of lacquer on there because again, the cans are 90% thinners in most cases. Its really cheaper to get a compressor, gun and paint it that way
If you are using rattle cans i would make sure the paint is fully cured before you lacquer. Those rattlers are 90% thinners in most cases so you need to be carefull about slapping on lacquer before all the thinners have evaporated out of the paint. You could very easily find yourself having to sand it all off and start again.
Once the paint is dry i would lacquer it within a 24 hour window and dont forget cold effects your finish. If you are planning to lacquer it from rattlers also, i hope you are rich mate, you are gonna need a sh*t load of cans to get a decent build of lacquer on there because again, the cans are 90% thinners in most cases. Its really cheaper to get a compressor, gun and paint it that way
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