23 replies to this topic

[satvinder]

wow that mixes it up now. ive got that nippon seiki guage!! is there one voltage regulator used for the fuel and water guage or two seperate.
how can i test if the regulator is at fault?? or if its the guage its self??

[dklawson]

Regardless of Smiths or Nippon Seiki, there is only on voltage stabilizer providing 10V to both gauges. Details of the Nippon Seiki arrangement can be seen in the FAQ created by Stormintrooper.

If both gauges are acting up, that would indicate a potential problem with the stabilizer. If only one gauge is acting up it could be a problem with the gauge itself, that gauge's wiring, or possibly the connections to the flex circuit board on the back of the gauge cluster.

If you have the NS gauges, the safest way to power that add-on gauge would be to supply it with a separate stabilizer. Jupitus on this board can make and sell you one or you can follow one of the links I posted earlier to a site that sells encapsulated ones.

[satvinder]

whats the link to your post.
ive brought a voltage regulator along with a few other things.
where can i take the 12 power supply from to connect it to the stabeliser???

[dklawson]

whats the link to your post.

From page 1 of this thread, the link below is for a company that sells solid-state voltage stabilizers.
http://classicstabil...information.htm

ive brought a voltage regulator along with a few other things.

Then you don't need the link I provided above or on page 1 of this thread.

where can i take the 12 power supply from to connect it to the stabeliser???

Others will have to suggest a place for you to tap into switched 12V power for your stabilizer and gauges. Your car is simply too new for me to make that kind of specific suggestion. HOWEVER, you did not mention if the stabilizer you bought was a Smiths unit or other. If it is a Smiths voltage stabilizer be advised of two things:
a) The metal case of the stabilizer MUST (must, must, must) have an earth connection. Did I mention "must"?
b) On the Smiths voltage stabilizer circuit board you will find text identifying the terminals "B" and "I". "B" is for "battery". It is the switched 12V input. "I" is for instruments, it is the 10V output to the gauges. You MUST mount the stabilizer so the text is legible and upright (not upside down, not sideways). Mounting orientation is important for accuracy with Smiths stabilizers.

[satvinder]

any one know where i could take a 12v supply from to put in the regulator and out to the gauge??

[satvinder]

i manadged to get it wired in, and it works well,
after alot of research and alot of testing everything with a volt meter it works
chears guys for your help and imput

ive also learned to use a volt meter in ways i never knew!! lol

all that soldering at college finally came into use!

[GuamMini]

• I have a 1973 Clubman 1275GT and I want to add a temperature gauge and still keep the original one just to make sure it is accurate. Does anyone have pictures of how 2 sending units can be installed in the engine side. Thanks

[Spider]

I don't think you'd be able to do that easily, though can be done.

 

An easier solution would be to source a Thermostat housing that has a Temp Sender point in it, eg

 

http://minisport.com...th-temp-adaptor

 

They were offered for the Morris Minors, early Sprite etc

[tiger99]

6 years and 7 months, and the thread is resurrected. Is that a record?

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