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Rear Subframe Removal?


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#1 finch661

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Posted 31 January 2010 - 12:25 PM

i have an 85 mayfair and it has a rotten rear subframe (earlier post). i am wondering how difficult it is to remove and if there are any specialist tools involved. i have haynes, but it always looks easier than it is

thanks

finch661

#2 bmcecosse

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Posted 31 January 2010 - 12:30 PM

It falls off after you get the bolts out. That's the snag of course - often the bolts don't want to come out! Plenty of PLUS GAS - and have some heat on stand-by (gas blow torch) - if the heads are worn on the bolts - you may be able to hammer a 12mm socket on them. Otherwise - drill the heads off. Try to NOT break any of the bolts leaving short stubs in the heelboard - although in fact the biggest risk is that the captive nuts will break free and then you have to cut into the sills to get at them. So go carefully !! New bolts all round of course when fitting the new subby.

#3 finch661

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Posted 31 January 2010 - 12:38 PM

i have been using wd40 and freeze&release on the bolts for the last dew days, plus i have a blow lamp kicking around my garage. this might be a job for the porfessionals...

#4 bmcecosse

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Posted 31 January 2010 - 01:37 PM

Budget for new brake pipes (bundy and flexi) while in there - and remember there's a petrol tank just above your head - so be canny with the blowlamp!

#5 finch661

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Posted 31 January 2010 - 04:23 PM

yeah, fire/heat and petrol, not good :lol: just out of curiosity, is it easy to make brake lines?

#6 lrostoke

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Posted 31 January 2010 - 05:46 PM

just out of curiosity, is it easy to make brake lines?


Its like anything right tool and practise first.. Coil of brake pipe isn't expensive. And I think flaring tools are about £20

#7 stormintrooper

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Posted 31 January 2010 - 06:27 PM

well having the section that goes from radius arm to rear cylinder cost me £4 so if your not planning on renewing more lines it may be cheaper to have them made

#8 jameswhiles

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Posted 31 January 2010 - 07:15 PM

When you put the new bolts in, we use stainless bolts with PLENTY of copper slip. Works a treat and it shouldn't rust again

#9 finch661

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Posted 31 January 2010 - 07:26 PM

hmm im still debating whether to do this job by my self, or get a professional to do it. i have a feeling that if i try it, it will go horribly wrong :lol:

#10 jameswhiles

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Posted 31 January 2010 - 07:29 PM

hmm im still debating whether to do this job by my self, or get a professional to do it. i have a feeling that if i try it, it will go horribly wrong :lol:

If you have basic mehcanicle skills then its a fairly easy job, even easier if you have a mate to help move it into place. Just a few things to look out for like not trapping fingers in radious arms!
Theres plenty of guides on the good old tinternet to help you out. Do a search on google and do a bit of reading before you pay a fortune at a garage

#11 finch661

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Posted 31 January 2010 - 10:54 PM

cheers for the input. the only complex thing (well what i consider complex) is changed the engine in my mini. my worry is snapping/breaking something

#12 finch661

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Posted 02 February 2010 - 10:23 AM

i have been reading the haynes manual (and the restoration manual) and am getting a little bit more confident on what i am doing!
can i run a quick breakdown past someone?
1) remove handbrake cable
2) remove exhaust
3) remove feed from 3 way brake connector (is there a special tool that doesnt round off the nuts?)
4) remove subframe bolts(ones near the grease point) - after using loads of wd40/heat
5) remove subframe bolts from the boot
6) remove shock absorbers via the big nust in the boot
lower subframe
now how easy is it then to strip the subfram, like removing the radius arms and so on?

#13 danie garry

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Posted 02 February 2010 - 10:56 AM

radius arms are easy to take off, as are shocks, drums, cylinders and thats about it! simples!

#14 finch661

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Posted 02 February 2010 - 11:02 AM

radius arms are easy to take off, as are shocks, drums, cylinders and thats about it! simples!

just like that :goaway:

#15 Pauly

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Posted 02 February 2010 - 11:43 AM

Battery cable will need dropping down aswell. For the brake pipe there are spanners designed just for brake pipes, they are ring spanners with a groove cut into the ring so the pipe can slip into the ring.




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