17 replies to this topic

[stormintrooper]

(Disc brake model)

right.... as it says i need to replace my outer cv boot..unfortunatley

and i was hoping you could comfirm what im going to do and correct/add where necessary

Remove split pin and loosen retaining nut and loosen wheel nuts
jack up etc and remove wheel and retaining nut
remove calliper and secure againt the car so hose isnt stretched
use ball joint splitter and remove steering joint and upper and lower ball joints
pull away the hub
replace the rubber boot
reverse procedure for replacing hub
before putting road wheel and retaining nut i need to use a flat washer(dimensions i cannot remember) (not the split cone one) and use a torque wrench (cannot rememver how much torque to use) and tighten the retaining nut...remove...replace washer with the cone like one and put everything else back on

now are there any little details im missing..what happens with the bearings?

and do i need any other tools i havent mentioned?

[Brigbeale]

After removing the hub, you will need to get the outer cv joint off of the driveshaft, usually with a soft hammer or drift on the inner race of the joint itself. It will sometimes be a right bu**er to get the joint to move as it is held in position by a circlip.
This circlip should be replaced with a new one.
Once the new cv gaiter is on the shaft, slide the joint back on and make sure it is locked and cannot just slide off the shaft. Squirt as much as you can of the new cv grease into the rear of the joint and the remainder into the gaiter itself. Secure the gaiter and then reassemble.

Unless you are using the stretchy type with a cone which fits over the joint without having to disassemble the driveshaft assembly.


All of this is easier with the driveshaft in a vice rather than on the car.

Edited by Brigbeale, 12 January 2010 - 10:24 PM.

[mars red mike]

Sounds good to me bud. I will add that it would be a good idea to clean and re-grease the CV joint while you have it out (remember to use CV joint grease and not ordinary multi-purpose stuff). Dont forget to use a brand new spilt-pin through the castle nut after you have torqued it up.

[Dan]

If you're planning on removing the whole hub by splitting all the ball joints and seperating the caliper, there is no need to split the CV from the wheelbearing. Leave the castle nut alone. Once the hub is free and you knock the shaft out of the back of the CV, the whole thing will come away and you can replace the gaiter easily. Remember the sachet of grease might be a generic one for any size joint and that there is some grease left in the joint, you are unlikely to need to use it all. The spec for how much grease is needed in total is written in better manuals, aim for that figure allowing for how much you think is left behind. If it's been split for some time, there is no sign of any grease left or water has got in then it will need a very thorough strip, clean and re-grease.

[stormintrooper]

dan im not familiar with the working of this area (around the hub) at all so forgive me but iv lost you

Edited by stormintrooper, 13 January 2010 - 12:15 AM.

[stormintrooper]

i just want to know the easiest way for me to replace my outer boot lol

[GraemeC]

Dan's advice is sound - remove the hub assembly by spliiting the two ball joints and track rod end and either knock it off the driveshaft or remove the driveshaft from the pot joint. However take car you don't pull the pot joint from the gearbox!!

This way you do not need to disturb the main hub nut and worry about torquing it up again correctly. It can be a bit more of a fiddle to secure the gatier to the CV though.

But before you get anywhere near that far - whilst the car is still on the floor remove the rebound rubber under the top suspension arm and replace it with either a 1/2"-3/4" thick peice of wood or a spare nut of similar thickness. This will hold the top arm up and make it easier to remove the hub. When the job is complete and the car back on the floor remove what you used and replace with the rebound rubber.

[stormintrooper]

im going to be replacing the brake disc at the same time anyway so the retaining nut needs to come off for that doesnt it?

[satvinder]

yes aswell as the drive flange thats on the disc

[stormintrooper]

so i may aswell go with the way i mentioned?so yh...hub off..what happens to bearings and things like that?

gotta remove the outer joint off the drive shaft, can this be done without removing the driveshaft from the engine? and i just need to knock it off? how do i put it back on?

and what is a drift?

[satvinder]

if the bearings in good condition it should stay in the hub with the plastic seal that goes on the back part of the hub. if they fall out then you would need to clean and regrease and refit. when ever i do cv joints i always take the drive shaft off the car completely. again clean re grease. ive never fitten the old cv joint, i smash the old cv joint and then push on a new one while squishing the circlip and the drive shaft goes on easy!!

[chappy]

so i may aswell go with the way i mentioned?so yh...hub off..what happens to bearings and things like that?


Yes if your replacing the disc too. bearings will stay inside the hub don't need to touch anything there really.

gotta remove the outer joint off the drive shaft, can this be done without removing the driveshaft from the engine?

Yes

and i just need to knock it off?

Yes

how do i put it back on?

after you've cleaned the CV out and re-greased (grease sachet comes with the boot) make sure the circlip is in good condition or a new one has been put on (you'll see a little indent in the drive shaft where it should go). line up the CV joint, put the castle nut on the end of the thread (just to stop any damage) then tap it back on with a hammer)

and what is a drift?


Used for knocking things in and out to be precise about where your hitting, (as apposed to going trigger happy with a sledge hammer)

Edited by chappy, 13 January 2010 - 01:31 PM.

[stormintrooper]

so is it worth getting a new joint or am i likely to be ok with the current one?

and does anyone remember the specific size of the washer needed to torgue things up before putting the split cone like washer on

and thanks chappy

Edited by stormintrooper, 13 January 2010 - 01:38 PM.

[chappy]

you'll need to replace the joint if there's play in it. (even a little bit, it will still cause problems) if not, its good practice to change the circlip.


and BIG is the size of the washer i think MRA sells them (probably be able to find one cheaper, but i think it has the size on the site)

and No problem

[stormintrooper]

he hasnt got any in stock..hasnt for quite a while...will have a look for the size though