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Morspeed Phase 3 Cam Timing


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#1 scars

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Posted 09 January 2010 - 06:26 PM

Hi,

I was wondering if anyone might be able to tell me at what degrees I should be timing a Morspeed Phase 3 cam in at.

Thanks,

David.

#2 bmcecosse

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Posted 09 January 2010 - 06:38 PM

Just set it dot to dot! That's what they are there for. Anything else is just guesswork - you have no idea what will be 'best' for your engine - so may as well use to dots and see how it goes!

#3 Pooky

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Posted 09 January 2010 - 08:47 PM

I also have a PH3 in my 1062 and set it at 108 degrees.

#4 Pooky

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Posted 09 January 2010 - 08:49 PM

you have no idea what will be 'best' for your engine


It's not a case of what's best for the engine, it's about having the cam operate at a precise moment in the power cycle. You want max lift 108 degrees before TDC.

scars - are your using a DTI to time it in?

#5 Cooperman

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Posted 10 January 2010 - 03:36 PM

Dot-to-dot timing can be fine and the engine will always run at that setting, often very well. However, manufacturing tolerances can put the cam several degrees out using the dot-to-dot method, so if you've gone to the expense of buying a much better cam, it is wise to time it in correctly. After-market duplex sprockets can also be a bit in error and I found one set to give a timing on dot-to-dot 8 degrees out!
At 108 deg ATDC on your cam you should have a good result. It may not be the very best you could get, but you would need a dynamometer to get the absolute max power, so go with 108 unless someone has the actual Morspeed setting instructions. 108 is mid way between the 106 deg for Kento and 110 deg for BMC/Leyland/Rover cams.

#6 bmcecosse

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Posted 10 January 2010 - 04:21 PM

You can easily check if you have got it 'right' - by measuring the valve lifts on overlap at TDC. Even then - this may not be the absolute best setting for your engine - some like a little advance - some a little retard - it really depends what you want from the engine. Best lugging or best max power! Remember the timing chain and sprockets (yes -even duplex) soon wear in slightly retarding the cam a couple of degrees.

#7 scars

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Posted 11 January 2010 - 07:56 AM

thanks for all your replies, I don't have a DTI at the moment. I was considering buying one, would it be massively detrimental if I checked by eye?

#8 bmcecosse

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Posted 11 January 2010 - 09:22 AM

As I said earlier - set it dot to dot! Easy check then with lifts on overlap at TDC.

#9 Pauly

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Posted 11 January 2010 - 02:28 PM

You will need the DTI to measure valve lift so it is an essential tool for cam timing.

#10 GraemeC

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Posted 11 January 2010 - 02:47 PM

It can be done without a DTI as explained by Calver here:
http://www.calverst.com/cc110f.htm

It does require head removal though.

Edited by GraemeC, 11 January 2010 - 02:47 PM.


#11 TimmyG

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Posted 11 January 2010 - 03:06 PM

Surely the best way would be to phone morspeed rather than guessing and ask them what it should be set to?! Then set it correctly (allowing for dwell at piston Top Dead Centre and max cam lift otherwise is pointless exercise) using a DTI and timing wheel. Set it about 2 degrees advanced from what is quoted so when the chain initially beds in (stretches) it will fall into the correct setting. Do not line up dot to dot, as someone said, it's pointless fitting a performance cam if you then time it wrongly, which it inevitably will be using dot to dot, as you will likely lose much of the benefit of fitting it.
If you are not confident or dont have the tools to do it yourself, ask someone who can. Get it wrong and you may well end up with less performance than doing it dot to dot, or indeed with a standard cam! Hope this helps. :)

Edited by TimmyG, 11 January 2010 - 03:07 PM.


#12 jaydee

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Posted 11 January 2010 - 07:22 PM

thanks for all your replies, I don't have a DTI at the moment. I was considering buying one, would it be massively detrimental if I checked by eye?


No, because the timing chain will strech just after few miles.
Follow bmcecosse and Graeme C tips.

#13 mike.

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Posted 11 January 2010 - 07:36 PM

It supposed to be set at 110 degrees. I got mine to 108.5, then with abit of chain stretch it'll be near enough bang on.

I've got to say I disagree about just leaving it at dot to dot method. Yes it'll be fine, but why go to the expence of a new cam if you can't be bothered to get the most out of it.

Cams are designed to be set at a certain degree of rotation to get maximum power and best running from them.

It says in vizzards book that on a modified road engine the engine can loose a couple of bhp for every degree the cam is out by. He also said that the dot to dot method can be out by as much as 10 degrees or so. Not got the book to hand to be certain on those numbers, but its in there.




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