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Fom The Clubman Estate


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#106 toyboy396

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Posted 19 August 2010 - 08:42 AM

I'v just read through all of your thread.. Blimey...... i have to say your keen :)

All the little bits your changing and fabricating will be the making of this.

I shall keep a watch on this. Good work........ As you were.

:wub:

#107 Tupers

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Posted 19 August 2010 - 08:22 PM

So is your Uncle Paul, then? Been a long time since I was in that neck of the woods!


He is indeed.


I'v just read through all of your thread.. Blimey...... i have to say your keen :(

All the little bits your changing and fabricating will be the making of this.

:wub:


Cheers dude it's the little bits that count, although there are some big changes on the way. :thumbsup:

#108 digler

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Posted 20 August 2010 - 05:08 PM

love seeing work like this been done :(
looks like this will be a nice car when its done, i'd like to do a clubby estate, i think it will be my next car.
good luck with the rest of the build mate, its coming on just fine :)

#109 Tupers

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Posted 20 August 2010 - 07:51 PM

Cheers Diggler, some of this work is a real pain in the arse but seeing it done is really satisfying and the kind comments from folk like yourself really help as well.

Sorry about the fuzzy pics I think I had some smudges on my lens. :(

I bolted in the stripped off top rial in the see what it looked like and figure out where I needed to cut to fit my dials.
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I made the first cut and refitted it.
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That didn't work so I made another.
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That didn't work so I hammered the bottom flat.
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That got it close but I still wanted them in further.
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So I cut some more. by the way Dewalt 1MM cutting disc are awesome, mega hard wearing.
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With all the back cut off I got the dials to sit in nice snug.
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Unfortunately we didn't have enough thin gauge steel to do more on the dash so I welded up the sides of my console.
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And today our friendly local tool guy came around so I bought myself a Thor copper/rawhide hammer a Trident panel hammer and a trident spot weld chisel.
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Edited by Tupers, 20 August 2010 - 07:57 PM.


#110 Tupers

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Posted 23 August 2010 - 06:08 PM

Now that we've got more steel I decided I'd tidy up the boot floor. The edges still where sill slightly curved so out came the hammer and dolly to straighten them out.

Before
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After
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I also cut off enough steel to make my tank box and marked it out for folding. Tomorrow I'll finish off trimming it and hopefully be able to roll some strengthening beads into it and fold it up.
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#111 DaveJH

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Posted 24 August 2010 - 12:01 PM

Nice work, just read through your thread. Can't wait to see the finished product.

#112 Tupers

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Posted 24 August 2010 - 09:31 PM

Nice work, just read through your thread. Can't wait to see the finished product.


Thank you very much. :D


This morning I finished cutting the tank box out. I had original planned to swage it all in one piece decided it would be easier is I cut the ends off and did the separately.
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Here's one of the end sections being swaged.
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The base and sides being swaged.
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All done and ready to fold.
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All folded up, you can see the base is slightly bowed but it will straighten out once the end plates and welded in.
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And here's one of the aforementioned ends plates held in place with masking tape.
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#113 Tupers

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Posted 25 August 2010 - 11:07 PM

Time to down you all in photos again.

Today I turned my attention to the bulk head with smoothing in mind and started by welding up the holes for the washer bottle and relay things.
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Then I did the instrument mounting bracket holes and the heater hose hole.
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I don't know what this holes was for but it's filled now.
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I also decided to get rid the master cylinder recess on the passenger side.
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Seen as I'm going with the clean look I thought I should fill in the whopping great hole in the centre of the bulk head.
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I made this section up to stiffen up the centre of the bulkhead.
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Then I mounted it up and drilled some holes to plug weld in on.
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And painted the two pieces in red oxide ready to be welded in tomorrow.
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Dad had some spare time so we set about welding the ends of the tank box on. I sat it up on some steel box and put a battery and a 1275 11 bolt head onto straighten out the bow in the base.
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Sat it in the boot to check the fit, I think it looks really good just a shame it's be covered up by a tank and a false floor.
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#114 Tupers

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Posted 26 August 2010 - 10:14 PM

So this morning I welded the backing ring onto the back of the bulk head.
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Then fitted the centre section and welded it in.
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With the help of my handy flap wheel I took the welds down, still got the top half to weld but I'm leaving that till latter.
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I can't stand having two spare holes in the scuttle panel so I decided to weld 'em up.
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Cut a nice fitting little plug.
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Welded.
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And ground down
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#115 clubby_1275gt

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Posted 26 August 2010 - 11:24 PM

ur doing really well there matey fabricating all the panels urself good job keep up the good work ill be watching lol

#116 blacktulip

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Posted 29 August 2010 - 08:51 PM

just read the whole project, its brilliant. i wish i was a skilled as you. top stuff!!

#117 Tupers

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Posted 30 August 2010 - 08:41 PM

just read the whole project, its brilliant. i wish i was a skilled as you. top stuff!!


Not bad for a 19 year old eh!

#118 sonikk4

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Posted 30 August 2010 - 09:23 PM

Liking that swaging tool alot, must try and talk my boss into acquiring one. Thats a nice piece of fabrication.

#119 Tupers

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Posted 02 September 2010 - 10:54 PM

Liking that swaging tool alot, must try and talk my boss into acquiring one. Thats a nice piece of fabrication.


Thanks Sonik, the swager's a brilliant tool for this kind of stuff.


Dad kindly welded the ends onto the tank box for me.
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I decided the tackle the top of the plate in the bulk head but had trouble clamping it so ran 4 self tappers though it the pull it tight to the back plate.
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I welded up the gaps and then took the screws out and welded up the remaining holes.
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With the bulk head welded up I turned my attention to the bonnet stay lock.
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Drilled out the spot welds.
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I cleaned up the area underneath and cut two slots...
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And then fitted the stay lock so that it could be welded in from the underside.
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Once I've ground it and flowed some braze in around the edges it should look really cool.
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Having cut the rearmost top section from the centre console ages ago I finally decided to weld it back on.
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All welded up.
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I was having problems reaching around handbrake grip with the centre console sitting as high as it is so I chopped up an old door skin for it's handle recess.
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It needed to be a little longer so I cut a 35MM section of steel and added it into the centre of the recess.
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I sat the console in place to check it would work, I don't know why I painted it. :)
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I made the hole in the console bigger and tacked my super awesome new piece in.
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Seam welded all the way around.
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Then welded in a filler piece in the back.
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And ground the welds down to get an idea of how it will look once finished.
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#120 Tupers

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Posted 09 September 2010 - 10:03 PM

After doing some thinking I decided that I didn't really like the shape of the top dash rail and would prefer it if it was closer to the original rail below it.
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I took a long pie cut from the top of the rail making sure I didn't cut to close the the original radiused edge at the front.
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I then pushed the front down and tacked it to the top, thus making a slimmer top dash rail cover.
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With the dash rail bolted in you can certainly tell it's got a much slimmer profile.
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I also went ahead and mounted the dial pod on 3 pieces of flat bar so I can start building it into the rest of the dash.
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I had some spare time so I made a little round plug it fill the hole in the centre of the bulk head cross member. I know it wont be seen once the exhausts in but at least it's another water trap gone.
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And then I got really bored so I mocked up an R/C tool box. :trooper:
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