764 replies to this topic

[benjy_18]

May aswell go for a k1100 head while your at it to be honest! Sounds very good though, I'm going to be looking at a k head and custom CF plenum design once I can turbo charge

[Tupers]

I had thought about the K1100 head a while ago but it would cost over double what the 5 port will and wouldn't give me the smooth cruising torque I'll be able to get out of this.

[leadly]

Great read so far! Loving your fab work! Keep the updates coming!

[JustSteve]

I'm thinking of something a little like this.

No way! That's the exact picture I have pinned to my tool chest for inspiration!

Joking aside, what is that thing? :|

[Tupers]

No way! That's the exact picture I have pinned to my tool chest for inspiration!

Joking aside, what is that thing? :|

Just some random Bosozoku car I found on google, kind of looks like a Zakspeed Capri.

[Tupers]

Edit: is there any chance you would be able to measure the ground clearance from floorpan/gearbox/front panel.

I've got no front panel to measure from and I have an idea.. but that's a secret

I have your measurements Sir.

Floor to front panel = 13.5CM
Floor to sump = 6.5CM
Floor to floor pan = 8.5CM

[Tupers]

Thought I'd have a tinker with the engine steadies today. I wanted rose joint on the engine but a bush at the bulk head to try and keep a little damping so I set to work on a standard steady bar.

First I chopped up the standard engine steady.


Then I tapped a 5/16 UNF thread into the end of each one and cut down a pair of bolts to act as studs for the turnbuckle.




A bit of hose to stand in for the turnbuckle and it looks like it should work. It will also allow me more clearance for the dry deck pipe work around the core plug.



I'll be using the other end of the steady for the water pump side of the engine so made a couple mounting tabs up quickly.


This is roughly where it will sit using another small turnbuckle and a rose joint going to a bracket on the water pump.

Edited by Tupers, 25 May 2012 - 09:30 PM.

[Tupers]

I made a start on the exhaust flange for the supercharger with some 6MM plate.


Then I made a template of the inside of the flange and laid it over the blank.


I tried using the plasma cutter but it wan't up to 6MM steel so I resorted to a hole saw and grinder, still lots to go.



Everyone was getting a bit bored of me being noisy I turned my attention to the top dash rail.

The original had studs for mounting but I needed to changes it over to captive nut so I made a couple new brackets and got them welded on.






I'm still swinging between a 2 or 3 gauge dash but decided to go ahed with the 3 and see where it goes. I started by making another gauge hoop and mounting it up with the other 2 I'd already made.


I'm quite happy with the distance the gauges come out from the dash but I think I'm going to move them up by one more inch.


I'm thinking the final product will look something like the top drawing but with 3 gauges instead of 2.

[JustSteve]

Thank you for the measurements tuppers, they're exactly what I was hoping they would be!

Loving the steady idea. I hate there 'ultimate' engine steadys because they look so out of place, and unlike the standard steady (I'm a bit OCD) but that's great!

You made your mind up on wheels yet?

[Tupers]

Loving the steady idea. I hate there 'ultimate' engine steadys because they look so out of place, and unlike the standard steady (I'm a bit OCD) but that's great!

You made your mind up on wheels yet?

I knew I need a couple more steadies because of having the internal linkage but so decided I may as well do something a bit cool and different. I'm just waiting on the rose joints and turnbuckles now and I can get them all buttoned up.

I still haven't settles on wheels if I honest. I still love the magnesium wheels that are on it now but I'd love to get my hands on a set of 100+ wheels or some 5x10 ATS Classics.
100+


ATS Classic

Edited by Tupers, 01 June 2012 - 03:44 PM.

[Tupers]

And now more pictures to illustrate how I can spend an entire morning doing not an awful lot.

I thought I'd give the plasma cutter a chance to redeem its self and used it to cut out a plate to mount the gauge hoops to.




Got a bit of a rough cut as the tip needs replacing so I cleaned the edge up with a pair of aviation snips.


After a little fettling I got the hoop to sit where I wanted them and got them welded in a tidied up.




They all sit in rather nicely, now I need to figure out how to make everything else.

[benjy_18]

i think your car would suit a set of ats classic REALLY well

so come on, when are you going to stop tarting around and build it up?? ;)

Ben

[Tupers]

so come on, when are you going to stop tarting around and build it up?? ;)

When it's finished.

To be honest I'd like to drive it to IMM next year but I want to do a complete dry build before anything gets finalised. If it takes me another 2 years I don't mind, at the end of the day I want to have a car that is exactly how I want it. Once it's painted and put together the only work that will be done to it is maintenance.

[JustSteve]

ATS classics all the way mate! Any more progress.. need some inspiration

[Tupers]

ATS classics all the way mate! Any more progress.. need some inspiration

No progress, more regression if I'm honest.


After getting the back end up on stands to have a look at how to route the exhaust I decided to cuts out the whole tank/battery box assembly and start again. To get the original system to work I would have needed to notch into the already small tank box so I'm just going to make new bigger one and position it better.
Before:


After:


Instead of running from side to side the new box will run length ways and should actually clear the exhaust.


In brighter news we got a new MIG welder and I thought I'd put it to work making an stand for our spare vice.




And I got a nice leather shot bag, now I just need to figure out where I can get cheap lead shot.